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NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE 



MOSQUITO SHORE 



WITH AN ACCOUNT OF 



TRUXILLO, 



AND THE ADJACENT ISLANDS OF 



BONACCA AND ROATAN; 



VOCABULAKY OF THE MOSQUITIAN LANGUAGE. 



By THOMAS YOUNG. 



Secontr istJitton. 



LONDON: 
SMITH, ELDER, AND CO., 65, CORNHILL. 

1847. 







/? 



London : 

Printed by Stewart and Murray, 

Old Bailey. 



YOUNG'S NAEEATIYE 



RESIDENCE ON THE MOSQUITO SHORE, 



OPINIONS OF THE PB35S. 

" This is a sprightly entertaining little volume. Mr. Young appears to 
have described the characteristics of the country with fairness and im- 
partiality. He gives every information relative to climate, the manners 
and customs of the natives, necessary for the guidance of those who may 
be about to proceed to the spot. To such persons, Mr. Young's book 
will be an indispensable vade mecum, while to closet readers it will be a 
welcome addition to their stock of geographical knowledge, as relating to 
a part of the world into which, as yet, comparatively few researches have 
been made." — Morning Chronicle. 

1 ' The novelty of the ground, the little that is known of the country and 
the people, as well as the singular character of individual persons and par- 
ticular scenes, give attraction to Mr. Young's volume. Mr. Young, too, 
is a person of more literature than individuals who usually embark in 
these adventures. He has more breadth and less literalness than travellers 
of this kind generally possess, with as much of truth." — Spectator. 

" Everything is told with the freshness of an ardent temperament, 
delighted with the novelty of the position in which he is thrown, and the 
beauties of nature which surround him." — Weekly Chronicle. 

" The information given in reference to trading affairs will be of some 
importance to our mercantile interests, ever anxious to extend their opera- 
tions, or seek out a new field in lieu of those already too often furrowed 
by the plough of commerce." — Morning Advertiser. 

' ' This volume is calculated to be extremely serviceable to the visitor of, 
or settler on, the Mosquito shore. The accounts of the country, of its 







OPINIONS OF THE PRESS— continued, a 






inhabitants, and of the difficulties to be encountered on a first arrival, are 
given with much clearness, and with a view to general usefulness." — ^^ I 
Naval and Military Gazette. 

" This publication is valuable as an addition to the scanty information 
possessed of Central America. We heartily wish that other publications 
were as honest in their descriptions as the book before us." — Globe. 

11 Mr. Young's facilities of acquiring information appear only to have 
been equalled by his ability of turning them to the best advantage ; and 
he brings to his aid powers of description of no ordinary kind. The best, 
most useful, and apt intelligence, will be found in these pages." — Colonial 
Magazine. 

" Any one taking a fancy to 'locate' on the Mosquito Shore, should, 
as a preliminary step, peruse Mr. Young's little book ; it contains much 
useful information respecting the country, the native tribes, the modes of 
obtaining and remunerating labour, and also an extensive vocabulary of 
Mosquito terms." — United Service Magazine. 

" To the general reader the work abounds in sensibly selected informa- 
tion. The history, the habits, the superstitions, the character of the 
people, the natural productions of the country, its social features, its 
amount of civilization, its manufacturing acquirements, with the various 
crowd of new aspects which may strike the eye of a stranger or occupy an 
inquiring mind, all rapidly succeed each other in these pages," — Metro- 
politan Magazine. 

" Mr. Young's acquirements are very superior, while his views and 
manner of directing them bespeak a mind of compass, natural sagacity, 
and innate taste. We only wish his book had been twice the size that it 
is. He speaks with candour and good taste throughout." — Monthly Re- 



LONDON : SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORNHILL. 



^ 



^■-if 



PREFACE. 



I have been led to offer the following pages, relative 
i;o the Mosquito Shore, in consequence of my having 
looked in vain for similar information, on embarking 
•br that country, and severely felt the want of it on 
my arrival there. Much trouble, loss of time, and dis- 
appointment — many difficulties and mishaps should I 
have escaped, had I been in possession of the informa- 
tion, which my experience now enables me to present, 
on the manners and customs of the native tribes, the 
climate, seasons, and productions of the country. 

Fully conscious of the responsibility involved in the 
publication of a work, put forth as a sort of " Hand 
Book" of the Mosquito Shore, and deeply sympa- 
thizing in the disappointment and misery which have 
resulted to many of my countrymen, who have rashly 



IV PREFACE. 

resolved on emigration, ignorant of all they should 
know concerning the country in which they purpose 
to cast their lot, — I have, in giving the result of iny 
experience and investigations, adhered so rigidly to 
facts, that I feel convinced no person will have just 
cause to charge me with any distortion, exaggeration, 
or suppression of the truth. 

T. Y. 



i 

I 



NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 



CHAPTER I. 

Departure — Distress — Scotch Mariner — Storm — Mother Carey's 
Chickens — Porpoises — Nautilus — Phosphorescence oi the Ocean — 
Madeira — Sinking a Bottle in the Ocean — Dolphins — Poisonous Fish 
— Shark — West India Islands — Water-spout— Alarm !— Breakers — 
Rocks — Land. 

JLn the year 1839 I accepted an engagement from the 
British Central American Land Company, as Deputy Superin- 
tendent, to proceed, with a few others, to the Mosquito Shore, 
to form a Settlement at Black River, about eighty miles from 
the Central American Port of Truxillo, in the State of Hon- 
duras, there to establish friendly relations with the people 
around, so that in time trade might be opened with the 
Spaniards in the interior, for the introduction and disposal 
of such British goods as they might be willing to take in 
exchange. 

We sailed from Gravesend in July 1839, in the brig Rose, 
of 164 tons burthen, bound for Cape Gracias a Dios, there to 
deliver our credentials to the King of the Mosquito nation, 
Robert Charles Frederic, (who had been invested with the 
crown, on the demise of his brother George Frederic, with the 

B 



■I RESIDENCE ON THE 

concurrence of the British Government,) and from thence pro- 
ceed to Black River. For a few days after our departure from 
Gravesend, we had to contend with strong and adverse winds ; 
and as the brig was continually shipping heavy seas, the captain 
determined to run for Dungeness, and await a favourable wind ; 
we therefore bore up and cast anchor. About ten p. m. a gale, 
which had been gaining strength for some hours, burst forth 
with extreme fury; our windlass was broken in two by the 
heavy pitching of the vessel, and we were otherwise damaged, 
and in distress ; the seamen however performing eveiy order 
with the most cheerful alacrity. About four A. M. our signal 
of distress attracted some Deal boatmen, who, finding it im- 
possible to trip the anchor, slipped, and safely carried us into 
Ramsgate Harbour ; on entering which the brig sustained fur- 
ther damage by a Sunderland vessel running into her. We at 
last set sail with a fine breeze, which continued for some days, 
till we began to lose sight of Old England, and, as the land 
gradually lessened in the distance, the spell that bound us to 
one spot was broken by the thick shades of night. Near seven 
weeks elapsed before we made Cape Finisterre, owing to the 
succession of light and variable winds. Confined to the limits 
of.a small vessel, the want of exercise was much felt, especially 
as the swell in the Bay of Biscay, even in calm weather, is 
considerable, exposed as it is to the broad Atlantic Ocean, so 
that we found it difficult to pace the deck. 

An old Scotch mariner at the helm accosted me one day, 
and, after many turns of his quid and contortions of the face, 
said, " We sha'na hae ony luck this voyage, sir !" " Why ? I 
replied. " Because," said he, " a cat has been killed on board, 
and we set sail on a Friday," At these doleful tidings, the old 
man observing me to laugh, said, " Ah ! weel, sir, I was once 
young mysel, and when ye hae seen as much o' the world as 
I hae done, ye will aye respec an auld man's opinion." — 
" Can it be possible for you to be so superstitious ?" I asked : 
" Ca' it na superstition," replied the old storm-beaten sailor; 
'' I ken from experience. Look yon, ye see the sun is setting 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 3 

in a bank, and ye may depend we shall hae a storm before 
long, an a' the sailors on the coast of Scotland say, — 

" When the sun sets in a bank, 
A west wind ye will na want ; 
And when the sun sets clear, 
A west wind ye need na fear." 

Turning my attention to the westward, I was struck with its 
singular appearance ; thick clouds were fast rising, and making 
quickly towards us, so that in a short time we could plainly 
perceive the approach of a storm. The brig having been put 
under easy sail was prepared for the gale, which burst forth, 
about midnight, from the south-west, with great fury. When it 
was daylight we crawled to the weather side of the quarter 
deck, and beheld with breathless astonishment the awful 
grandeur and magnificence of the boundless deep ; it was to 
us novices a wonderful sight — the white crested waves rising in 
succession, rushing and rolling with irresistible force ; at times 
one would come toppling on with mighty strength, and as it 
approached nearer and nearer, higher and higher, it seemed the 
herald of our inevitable doom ; each man would then hold his 
breath and take a firmer grasp, till the billow passed harmlessly 
by. Towards night the gale increased in violence, and although 
grand in the day time, it was awfully so at night — the howling 
of the storm — the wild and fitful blasts whistling through the 
rigging — the heavy rain — the brig swerving, pitching and 
trembling, as if she was some living thing struck with terror. 
Sometimes the wind would be suddenly hushed, and a solemn 
stillness reigned, which to the awe-struck mind was agonizing ; 
and then the gale would again burst out, and strike the poor 
brig with wild gusts, appearing to come from all points of the 
compass. One heavy sea broke on the poop, nearly carrying 
away the man at the helm, (the same poor fellow who had 
foretold the storm,) and almost swamped us in the cabin. 
Morning dawned, but no amendment ; still lying to, the wind 
blowing as furious as ever. About eleven p.m., a light was 

b2 



4 RESIDENCE ON THE 

seen on the topmast head, called by the sailors St. Elmos' 
light; its appearance was that of a ball of pale blue fire, 
glimmering and shifting its position for a time, and then dis- 
appearing. The sailors looked upon it with superstitious awe, 
and said it was a sign the heart of the storm was broken. A 
Portuguese sailor threw himself upon his knees, crossing himself 
repeatedly, and only discontinued on the disappearance of the 
light, which he attributed to his prayers and intercessions. 
During the ensuing night the gale was less severe, but attended 
with lightning of a dangerous character. The conflict of the 
elements, and the efforts of man to combat them — the pitching 
and rolling of a small brig, now on the top of a high wave, and 
now sunk in the abyss — the orders and responses of the captain 
and crew in a storm, will create feelings not easily forgotten ; 
exemplifying in a striking manner that beautiful passage in the 
scriptures, " They that go down to the sea in ships, and 
occupy their business in great waters ; these see the works of 
the Lord, and his wonders in the deep." The gale ceased at 
midnight, having lasted three nights and three days, quite long 
enough to make us all heartily rejoice at its termination; we 
then found time for the pleasant joke and merry laugh. 

A few hours before the commencement of the gale, a flight 
of stormy petrels, commonly called Mother Carey's chickens, 
came near the vessel, and kept in her wake till the storm 
ceased. After their departure a number of porpoises were 
seen playing and tumbling before the bow of our vessel ; imme- 
diately a hue and cry was raised for the harpoons, which when 
found proved to be unserviceable, much to the regret of some ; 
I was however pleased, as I cannot but consider it a useless 
piece of cruelty to slay these creatures, for the only part now 
eaten is the liver, and even then caution must be used, as 
many have been seriously affected by partaking of it. We 
however read, in the Chronicles of London, that porpoises 
served up with a sauce composed of bread crumbs, sugar and 
vinegar, was a favorite dish with the English nobility, even so 
late as the reign of Queen Elizabeth. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. O 

One of those beautiful creatures, a nautilus, called by the 
sailors a Portuguese man-of-war, and by the Portuguese 
named Navire de guerre Inglis, now sails by, with its tiny sail 
hoisted to the breeze; another, another, all sailing merrily 
along, a sure sign there will be at night myriads of marine 
insects and animalcula illumining the sea with their phosphoric 
light. On this subject the following verses were written, I 
believe, by a young lady of New England : — 

HAILING A PORTUGUESE MAN OF WAR. 

A sail ! heave to, small commodore, 

And put thy helm alee ; 
That nearer from our deck we may 

Thy fairy frigate see. 
Ay ; thou hast shortened sail — we trace 

Thy crimson hull's bright glow ; 
And lifted sail upon the wave, 

Reflected fair below. 

From whence ? how bound ? at what port touch'd ? 

And how long out at sea ? 
A far famed man-of-war, we know 

No freight is borne by thee. 
A tiny shout comes o'er the waves, 

A small voice answers, hark ! 
'Tis from the Portuguese, who keeps 

Still in our lee his barque. 

14 1 bear away for no green isle 
With beach of sparkling sand, 
Nor anchor cast, nor moor awhile 
My good sea-boat where fair shores smile ; 
Nor veer ship where stern cliffs uppile 
The tempest beaten strand. 

Perchance, as unseaworthy bye, 

When the long cruise is o'er, 
Idly thy gallant ship may lie, 
Yet, o'er the surf my small sail fly, 
Still viewed by that all glorious Eye 

Surveying sea and shore. 

A bauble ship, yet skill divine 

Fair fashioned it for me ; 
As air-bell light along the brine, 
It leaves no trace afar like thine ; 
Ah ! would thy noble barque, like mine, 

Could never fail at sea," 



D RESIDENCE ON THE 

The appearance of the nautilus when floating on the surface 
of the water is very singular ; the most conspicuous part is an 
oval bladder inflated with air, which acts as the sail, and which 
can be hoisted at pleasure ; under their bodies they have numer- 
ous wire -like appendages, which act as suckers to obtain their 
prey. Sir Hans Sloane says, " That seamen do affirm they 
have great skill in sailing according to the different winds and 
courses." These creatures possess in a strong degree the sting- 
ing quality, by reason of which they are termed by some, sea 
nettles ; they also have that luminous appearance so common 
amongst marine insects. 

At night the sea looked as if actually on fire with phosphoric 
light, produced from myriads of animalcula, insects and jelly 
fish, which, as they sparkled in the ripples, had a very pleasing 
effect, especially at the bow and wake of the vessel. The glare 
of light thrown up illuminated the sails some distance from the 
deck, and if there had been any fish about the brig, their track 
would have been perceived. A jelly fish was washed on board 
in the lee scuppers, and as the poor creature was kicked from 
one to the other, it threw off at every blow numberless portions 
of pale blue light, resembling the light of glow-worms. After 
the seamen had sufficiently amused themselves, they cast the 
ill used jelly fish into its native element. 

A few days after, we made Madeira. It appears that the 
Portuguese, though not the discoverers of this beautiful island, 
were the first to colonize and make it known to the world, and 
it has never been out of their possession. It is said to have 
been discovered by a young Englishman in the reign of Edward 
the Third, who embarked in a vessel bound for France, which 
was driven out of its course to an uninhabited island, afterwards 
called Madeira, where he passed the remainder of his days, as 
also did some of the crew ; the rest endeavoured to reach 
England in then frail barque, but perished in the attempt. 

Soon after our losing sight of Madeira the weather became 
delightful, the heat averaging about 78° Fah. and not at all 
oppressive ; our enjoyment would have been very great, but 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 7 

unfortunately the wind was so light as scarcely to move our 
vessel through the water. Here we had leisure to hear the old 
mariner, who foretold the storm, sing " John Anderson my Jo," 
and relate strange stories of peril and enterprise in which he 
had been engaged, and of the immortal Nelson, and a host of 
others, in whose deeds he had borne a share. This was con- 
sidered an excellent opportunity to try the following experi- 
ment : — a wine bottle was selected, a good cork driven into the 
neck, and well secured with string, sealed and coated some dis- 
tance down the neck; the bottle was attached to a deep sea lead, 
281bs. weight, to which was fastened a sounding line of 140 
fathoms, and lowered into the sea from our boat ; but allowing 
for the drift, the bottle could not have been more at any time 
than 120 fathoms from the surface of the water. In ten minutes 
from the time the last fathom was let out, we commenced 
hauling in, and found the bottle full of salt water, the end of 
the cork with my initials was in the neck of the bottle, and the 
unwaxed end thrust outside. 

As we proceeded, our vessel was surrounded with numerous 
dolphins, bonetas, flying-fish and squid, as also several aquatic 
birds. Lines of all sorts were thrown out, baited with a variety 
of articles, such as pieces of salt pork, linen rag, &c. The first 
caught was a dolphin, he having gorged a hook to which was 
attached a piece of pork; the splendid colours of this fish when in 
its native element are remarkable ; all the most beautiful hues are 
mingled together, bright yellow and blue preponderating. On 
its being drawn in, its superb colours faded at every throe, till 
at length, when quite dead, it exhibited nothing but a dull white 
and dingy brown. Many dolphins were caught soon after, as 
the fins of the first were used as bait, and made to look like 
flying fish. Dolphins are eaten, and much relished by some ; 
it is said, they are of a poisonous nature, and that sometimes 
dangerous consequences have ensued from the indiscriminate 
use of fish caught at sea. Off places, such as Cuba, where there 
are copper banks, precautions ought to be used. When a fish 
is caught near copper banks, the seamen boil it, and put in the 



8 RESIDENCE ON THE 

saucepan a piece of silver, and if, when the fish is boiled, the 
silver be not discoloured, they pronounce it good; believing, 
that if the fish were poisonous, the silver would become black. 
An eminent Jamaica doctor recommended, if the slightest doubt 
exists of the goodness of a fish, not to trust to the popular 
fallacy of putting in silver when boiling, but to taste the heart ; 
for if sweet it may be eaten, if bitter it is unquestionably 
poisonous. 

The trade wind increasing, all sails were set alow and aloft, 
and there was nothing to be seen but the wide expanse, and 
hundreds of Portuguese men-of-war, hoisting their little sails 
to catch the favourable breeze : — 

The tender Nautilus who steers his prow, 

The sea-born sailor of the shell canoe, 

The ocean Mab, the fairy of the sea, 

He, when the lightning-winged tornadoes sweep 

The surge, is safe, bis port is in the deep, 

BYRON. %, 

Numbers of porpoises appeared proceeding in one strait 
course, amusing themselves by leaping out of the water, exact 
in their evolutions, as if actuated by one mind. We then fell 
in with the gulf weed, which was hailed with pleasure, in the 
hope that our voyage would soon be ended ; and whilst occu- 
pied in admiring its infinite variety, the cry was raised, " A 
shark! a shark!" A line and hook being ready, a piece of 
pork was attached to it, and thrown overboard, but the shark 
refused the delicious bonne bouche, nor deigned even to 
approach it. Great was the disappointment when the creature's 
fins were no longer visible, for all sailors have the most intense 
hatred to these monsters of the deep ; and, although our crew 
were natives of various climes, all joined in eagerness to destroy 
it, their abhorrence being plainly visible ; and loud curses were 
vented, when they found the bait wholly disregarded. This 
visit led to many stories of the rapacity of the sharks ; they 
sometimes follow in the wake of a vessel, or lie unperceived at 



MOSQUITO SHORE. » 

its bottom, so that when any poor fellow, either by accident or 
design, is in the water, it is ready to seize its prey. 

According to many authorities, these creatures are most 
voracious within the tropics. Portlock says, that the sharks 
in the South Sea Islands never offer to touch the Indians ; he 
has seen several swimming amongst one or two hundred natives, 
the fish appearing quite indifferent, and yet at the same time 
would greedily swallow any bait thrown out. 

We next passed the islands of Guadaloupe, Montserrat and 
Antigua, and most enchantingly they looked ; the setting sun 
illumining the horizon with great splendour, shedding gorgeous 
hues on various parts of the islands. The delicious warmth 
and beauty of the scene rivetted the attention, and the charm 
was only broken by the important black steward announcing 
tea, suddenly calling us from flights of fancy to dull reality ; 
and we soon heard Massa Snowball, on being summoned so 
often, sing out with his tiny trumpet voice, " Cuss dat bell, top 
him infernal clapper !" In the morning we observed a Danish 
man-of-war brig cruising about, apparently well manned and 
handled ; she made sail after us ; on hoisting our colours, she 
braced her yards round in chase of a vessel that just appeared 
above the horizon. 

Towards evening the brig was surrounded with schools of 
porpoises, driving out of the water the interesting flying fish, 
which escaped one danger only to fall in with another, for 
numerous birds were in readiness to dart on them the moment 
they appeared above its surface. 

The weather now became unsettled, and very hot, 86° in the 
shade ; three or four squalls a day, with torrents of rain and 
heavy thunder and lightning. Our small cabin was now 
oppressive, and would have been much more so, had we not 
used chloride of lime to sweeten it, which we found of service 
in the preservation of health. 

Here, about three P. m., we saw a water spout some distance 
astern, which, when it broke, raised a commotion in the water 
which would have engulphed all that came within its influence, 



L 



10 RESIDENCE ON THE 

and a constant succession of heavy squalls soon after took 
place. By the advice of the captain we provided ourselves with 
blanket frocks and trowsers, their benefit soon being appre- 
ciated. I do not know anything more conducive to the health 
of Europeans in a tropical climate than the liberal use of flannel ; 
though to recommend such things as blankets for trowsers may 
appear strange, in a climate where the thermometer stands at 
80° and upwards. I have heard that it is the custom on the 
coast of Africa, (where it is much warmer than in Central 
America,) for the seamen of the British navy to be rigged in 
blanket frocks and trowsers at eight o'clock every night. 

The captain now discovered, by observation, that we had 
been driven much to the southward of our course. On taking 
soundings seventeen fathoms were found, which in less than 
two hours decreased to four ; this rather alarmed us, the charts 
on board differing so essentially ; but, on consulting the chart 
of Lieutenant Barnett, who had lately surveyed that part, the 
four fathom bank was plainly shewn. We presently heard the 
leadsman sing out, " By the mark ten," gradually increasing 
to twelve fathoms, shewing us to be near Sandy Bay, Mosquito 
Shore, and to the southward of Cape Gracias a Dios. 

Towards night a great variety of things drifted by us from 
the northward, such as cocoa nuts, calabashes, large trees, logs 
of mahogany, limes, kc. so that at last we began to fancy our 
voyage at an end, and passed the night in pleasing anticipa- 
tions of terra firma. 

In the morning we had a spanking breeze in our favour; 
about two p. m. the man at the mast head called out loudly, 
"Breakers ahead!" Immediately all was confusion, the 
. brig was put about, fortunately without missing stays ; another 
ten minutes, and nothing could have saved her from destruction. 
As it was, however, we had the pleasure of looking from the 
taffrail at threatening breakers, leaping, foaming and lashing 
in the distance, to the great satisfaction of the Johnny New- 
comes. In a few hours another seaman called from the foretop, 
" Rocks right ahead !" The brig was again put about with 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 11 

alacrity, seemingly, however, surrounded with kays and reefs. 
The night coming on, and the current drifting us rapidly to the 
southward, the captain brought up in twelve fathoms. We 
congratulated the captain and ourselves on having escaped by 
his prudence, for in the morning reefs and kays were to leeward, 
and within a few miles of us. We then weighed anchor, and 
in the morning made land, our appearance being greeted by a 
heavy squall of wind and rain. 



CHAPTER IL 

Appearance of the Country— First sight of the Natives— Cape Residents 
—Columbians— The King's Token — Landing on the Embarcadero— 
Walk along an Indian Pass — Cape Gracias a Dios — The Bay — Climate 
— Savanna — Breeding Cattle — Trade— Cayman's Schooners — Green 
Turtle, Price of —Loggerhead Turtle — Trunk Turtle — San Pio— 
Productions of the Natives — Horned Cattle— Horses — Mode of Tam- 
ning — Ticks — Bats— Guana — Fowls —Pigs— Fish— Hauling Seine — 
Striking Fish — Striking Staffs — Snakes— Mode of curing their Bites — 
The ' Woulah — Mosquitos— Sand Flies — Chegoes— Ants— Population 
of the Cape. 

The next day, about one p. m., we anchored off Cape Gracias 
a Dios, in four and a half fathoms. The country appeared low 
and covered with vegetation of a rich dark green colour down 
to the sea beach, from which we were distant about three 
miles. A boat was hoisted out, and on our way to the shore, 
we met a strange looking native boat, called a dorey,* in which 



* A Dorey is cut out of the trunk of a tree, generally mahogany or 
cedar. They are sometimes thirty feet and upwards in length, four, five 
and six feet in breadth, and four and five feet in depth. The Indians 
of the interior hollow them out roughly, and sell them to the Indians of 
the coast, who trim them well, and widen them, either by sinking them 
in the rivers, or filling them with water ; after they have remained 
a sufficient time, they are easily stretched and the width preserved, by 
nailing in timbers or knees along* each side of the dorey. 



12 



RESIDENCE ON THE 



were three tall and powerful looking Indians, naked, with the 
exception of tournous, (made from the inner bark of the ule or 
caoutchouc tree) tied round their loins, hanging down before 
and behind. One of them sung out, in pretty good English, 
" How do? me glad see you — long time you no come!" to 
which one of our men who had been in the country before, and 
who knew the Indians, replied, " Tokoy, plenty English come 
live with you, bring plenty every thing, too much ;" on hearing 
which they testified the most lively satisfaction, not, however, 
forgetting to ask for grog. By this time another dorey, which 
had displayed a small flag, came alongside, two white men 
being seated in the stern, one a gentleman, who had resided at 
the Cape as a merchant for many years, and for whom some 
of our party had letters. He and his companion returned with 
us to the brig, at the same time presenting us with some ripe 
bananas, pine apples, and sugar-cane, which were speedily 
demolished. We learned from them that it had been reported 
the Columbians had threatened to attack the Cape, and that 
the residents were totally unprepared for such a visit, having 
no arms or ammunition, though they expected that some would 
shortly arrive from Balize. 

A fort had been commenced on the Embarcadero,* close by 
the entrance of the Bay of Cape Gracias a Dios, and near the 
north channel, so as to sweep any vessel that might arrive. 
They had, however, only one long brass gun, a nine pounder, 
and a small carronade. The only materials for building the 
fort were wood, sand, and a little copper dross, which had been 
thrown out of the hold of the Rose on a former voyage. The 
work was progressing under the directions of an Englishman 
residing at the Cape, assisted by numerous Mosquito men, 
each contributing one, two, or three days' work, according to 
the king's order, which is expressed by one of his tokens, 



* An Embarcadero is a place to which the mahogany logs are brought 
from the rivers and the various creeks where the trees are fallen, to be 
beaten off and squared ready for shipment. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 13 

either a silver medal, formerly presented to his deceased brother 
George Frederic by the English, or a gold-headed stick, a 
sword, or something known to belong to the king. These 
tokens the natives never disavowed. 

Much pleasure was manifested at our arrival, as we had long 
been anxiously looked for, and although most of our small 
party were going to Black River, the natives of the Cape were 
inspired with the idea that they were not forgotten, as they had 
feared they had been by their friends the English. Towards 
night our newly acquired friends returned to their homes, and 
the next morning we landed near the affair called a fort, being 
satisfied that we should not be molested, from the known friend- 
ship these people have towards the English. The whole face 
of the country appeared covered with bush of the most varied 
character, interspersed with tall and graceful cocoa-nut trees, 
and mangrove bushes, which skirted the bay, spreading their 
branches some distance over the water. On landing, we 
entered a narrow pass, and were obliged to proceed in Indian 
file, our view being circumscribed by the bush On each side. 
While traversing along, a most delicious fragrance greeted our 
senses j and seemed like enchantment ; we found it to proceed 
from some lime trees in full bearing ; we plucked the grateful 
fruit, and inhaled its odour with new life and bright hopes, 
handsome plants meeting our gaze at every turn, and the air was 
so impregnated with sweetness, that our delight could not be 
exceeded. At length we arrived at some clearings, on which 
were huts built by the natives in a very primitive manner, posts 
being driven into the ground, secured together, roofed and 
thatched, almost perpendicularly, to within five or six feet from 
the surface, so that all round their huts to that height was 
perfectly open. The thatch in use among the natives is the 
cahoon leaf, swallow-tail, papter, wild cane, and two or three 
other sorts. Our approach was greeted by the loud barkings 
of many lean and hungry dogs, and we were obliged to use 
our sticks with vigour to keep them from biting our heels. 
Several Indians were luxuriously swinging in their hammocks 



14 RESIDENCE ON THE 

made from the bark of a tree called maho, while others were 
squatting down by a wood-fire, smoking their short pipes. Now 
and then one would cry out, " Ouple tapla ourike," (Friend, 
give me grog.) Many women and children were attending 
some large iron pots, boiling the root of the cassada, and fish, 
and roasting plantains ; they seemed to regard us with wonder 
and surprise. Numberless pigs were running about in all 
directions. After passing other Indian habitations, much better 
arranged and built than the first we had seen, we came to the 
English locality, highly gratified with our interesting walk 
from the embarcadero, about two miles and a half, and were 

received by the gentleman I have before named, Mr. H , 

and heartily welcomed. A house being ready, we slung our 
hammocks, feeling happy at being relieved from the dull con- 
finement of a small vessel, and delighted with the appearance 
of the natives and country. 

Cape Gracias a. Dios is situated 15° north and 83° west ; it 
has a very large bay, formed by the land running eastward for 
some distance. 

In 1793, Don Jose del Rio stated, that the anchorage of this 
bay was gradually becoming less, owing to the English having 
cut a communication with the river Segovia, to enable them 
to float down mahogany ; that the cut between the two rivers, 
Segovia and Wanks, or the great Cape river, had widened so 
much, that from a small and narrow canal it had become a 
rapid river ; and the quantity of loose soil and trunks of trees 
brought from the interior by its current, had diminished the 
depth of water in the vicinity of San Pio so materially, that in 
a few years the bay would be filled up altogether, and ships 
would have to ride outside, and consequently be deprived of 
shelter. The worthy Don's prognostications have proved 
groundless, for a chamiel (called the north channel) has lately 
been discovered, by winch any vessel not drawing more than 
ten or eleven feet water can enter the bay, open only to the 
south east. Our captain, .after buoying it, entered by this 
channel, and cast anchor in three fathoms off the fort on the 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 15 

embarcadero, and as the sand is continually shifting in the 
floods, I should say it would be always necessary to adopt the 
same precaution. There is also another channel close by the 
eastern point of the island of San Pio, which is generally taken 
by small vessels, and is pretty deep in the freshes ; the channel 
is so close to the point that one might throw a biscuit on 
shore. 

The climate here is unquestionably salubrious ; the health of 
its inhabitants would be much improved, if they could be 
induced to clear their yabals* and round about then wattlers,f 
and also cut away and keep down the bush as far back as the 
Savanna; but this exertion is too much for them, for in the 
same state as then forefathers lived and died, so would they. 
This savanna commences about 200 or 300 yards from the 
bay, extending some miles back also to the north west ; it is 
capable of feeding a vast number of cattle. This noble savanna 
is generally burnt off once a year, otherwise the grass would 
become rank. It is to be regretted that such a place with its 
many advantages, should be left from year to year almost 
unused and unthought of. 

Some years ago Mr. H , the gentleman before alluded to, 

obtained several cattle, and bred from them for two or three 
years, when he found that they seriously decreased, the Indians 
killing them to pay their own debts. He and his two sons being 
the only Englishmen then at the Cape, he disposed of the 
remainder to a British man of war, which came by chance into 
the harbour. He has lately commenced again ; another English- 
man is also engaged in the same pursuit; then cattle are 
increasing fast. The natives are now so well disposed, and so 
much subdued, that they will not kill a beeve belonging to an 
Englishman, as they well know if they do it will be discovered, 
and they and then families would suffer severely for it, for on 
application to the king, he sends down double the value of the 



* Passes or pathways. f Houses. 



16 RESIDENCE ON THE 

beeve killed, and repays himself by taking from the offender, 
his family or village, four times the amount; thus charging 100 
per cent, for his trouble. Taking the whole of the Mosquito 
Shore, very few cattle are amongst the natives, for they are so 
improvident, as to slaughter indiscriminately all they possess, 
even cows with calves, on any of their feast days. This, with a 
custom they have of shooting each others' beeves for payment 
in cases of adultery, is a sufficient reason for the scarcity, so that 
persons settling at the Cape, must depend upon most of their 
supply of cattle from the Central Americans. Some, however, 
may be obtained from the natives, of the savanna, near the 
Cape, and from Crata, Patook, &c. I think cattle could be got 
from Segovia, in exchange for British manufactured goods, and 
that they might be bred with very great success, especially if 
they were properly attended to ; and although the Jamaica 
market may not be considered as offering any particular 
advantage to the breeder for their disposal, yet after the third 
year he would be able to sell them well at the Cape, for from 
the goodness of its harbour, vessels would call there for supplies 
rather than depend on the present precarious mode of getting 
them elsewhere. On the great and noble work, the canal 
between the two seas, being completed, there must be a fine 
opening for the disposal of cattle at this place ; and if by any 
chance Boca del Toro be taken possession of, and settled upon 
by the English, or if any settlement be made by the English at 
Blewfields, the breeder would reap great and decided advan- 
tages. The milk of the cattle might be turned into good 
account by making cheese. 

It appears to me that the new Tariff will have a most decided 
influence in the improvement of trade on the Mosquito Shore, 
as the duty has been taken off or greatly reduced on many 
things produced there ; at present there are but one or two 
traders on the coast, and one only occasionally visits the Cape. 
Without the skill and perseverance of the white man, the 
natural resources of this fine country will never be brought 
to light, whilst with labour properly directed, many valuable 



MOSQUITO SHORE. l7 

articles, such as mahogany, cedar, caoutchouc, cacao, pimento, 
hides, sarsaparilla, tortoiseshell, medicinal balsams, gums, and 
other commodities would be produced. At present, I am sorry 
to say, that every thing left to the native inhabitants is wasted, 
and the advantages offered by nature, however easy the attain- 
ment, however abundant the supply, are refused. 

The Cape is often visited by small schooners, from the Grand 
Cayman's island, near Jamaica, to fish for turtle near the 
Mosquito Kays, about forty or fifty miles from the Cape, and 
which seldom return without a rich harvest. They supply the 
Balize and Jamaica markets with the finest green turtle, and 
often obtain in a season, several backs of hawk's-bill turtle- 
shell ;* as the Mosquito Kays are very much the resort of 
that species, as well as of the green turtle. Numbers of the 
Mosquito Indians sail in their doreys from the Cape, Sandy 
Bay, Duckwarra, Warner Sound, &c, to fish there. When 
they find the turtle on the beach, they turn them upon their 
backs, or spear them as they float on the top of the water. 
The crews of the Cayman's schooners, like the crews of the 
whale ships, go in shares ; at all times they are on the alert, 
and are as much pleased on hearing of the capture of a fine 
she green turtle, as the crews of the whalers on the welcome 
announcement of a fall.f Though the Cayman's schooners 
are sometimes seven, eight, or ten weeks on a cruize, they 
seldom or ever take any meat with them, depending upon 
their own skill in fishing, and the abundance of fish in the 
waters of this coast, to say nothing of the turtle from which 
they cut steaks, — from one part quite equal to beef, and from 
another part resembling veal ; so that with the fins, the calli- 
pash and callipe to make soup, with a few plantains, and flour 
for what are termed Johnny cakes, they live well, and at a 
trifling cost. 

The price of a green turtle, from the natives, about 3 cwt. 



* Tortoiseshell. + A whale struck with Ihe harpoon, 

C 



\6 RESIDENCE ON THE 

is eight yards of Osnaburg ; they take that as two dollars : the 
same sort will fetch at Truxillo about six dollars cash. In 
Balize, the flesh is sold in the markets, two pounds for two 
bits, being Is. 3d. currency, or 9d. sterling, making for the 
whole turtle about twenty dollars. What the price would be 
in Jamaica, I have no means of ascertaining. The species 
denominated loggerhead turtle is not eaten by the natives, 
though its eggs are much sought after, and esteemed. The 
trunk turtle grows to an enormous size, and is only valuable 
for its oil, which is considered the most penetrating of all oils. 

Opposite the Cape, on the other side of the bay, is the 
island of San Pio, with high and matted mangrove bushes 
along the water's edge ; most of the other parts being covered 
with bush, high spreading trees, a few patches of savanna, 
and here and there a swamp. Many deer are on this island; 
there are also a few cattle belonging to the natives, but these 
often require to be hunted and shot down. San Pio abounds 
with a great variety of buds, such as brown and white snipes, 
wild ducks, teal, pelicans, gallinpagos, cricums, and man-of- 
war birds, &c. No person resides on this island, it being 
much infested with sand-flies, although some of the natives 
have plantations on it. 

The land, from the Cape to the interior, is variegated with 
extensive and fertile savannas, or thick and luxuriant bush ; 
the soil is in many parts extremely rich, and produces wonder- 
fully. Indian corn is grown of the finest quality, especially 
by the Wanks River Indians. The sugar-cane thrives well ; 
there is, however, only the sort known as the ribbon-cane. 
Plantains, bananas, cassada, sweet potatoes, ginger, oranges, 
and other fruits, as they are in season, tournous, and a com- 
position called bisbire, (of which the natives are very fond,) 
are brought to the Cape by the Wankees* to exchange, and it 



* Wanks, or Great Cape River Indians ; this river rises in the floods 
20 and 30 feet, and has numerous falls. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 19 

is scarcely to be imagined with what eagerness tlicir pitpans* 
are surrounded, when they appear laden with their commo- 
dities ; the population of the Cape is then in a state of great 
excitement, and the most foolish bargains are sometimes made 
by the improvident creatures, merely to obtain an oushnerj- of 
bisbire, or a large tournou. The stuff called bisbire, is 
plantains buried in leaves until perfectly decomposed ; it is 
then taken out and put into oushners, boiled, and used as 
required. The natives consider it as one of their greatest 
dainties. Very little bread kind is grown at the Cape, by 
reason of the sandy nature of the soil, so that the English 
residents have to depend upon the River Indians, or the in- 
habitants of Poollen Town, a native settlement, rather more than 
a mile from the Embarcadero, and where the soil is so good, 
that all sorts of bread kind and fruits can be produced. 
Besides the articles brought by the Wankees, the natives of 
Poollen Town supply the Cape with pumpkins, pine-apples, 
allicavo pears, papahs, limes, guavas, various articles of bread 
kind, fowls and pigs. Several seeds of English vegetables 
were given to two or three natives of Poollen Town ; they were 
planted, and throve remarkably well, especially the French 
bean, the early pea, and scarlet runner. Unfortunately the 
men were called away by the king on one occasion, and during 
their absence the women, not knowing the value of the plants, 
cut them all down. Some attempts were afterwards made 
with other seeds, but not attended with success. If a crop of 
beans or peas be obtained, of which in some situations there is 
no question, the Creole seed will be found to answer well. 

In the savanna, some of the head men have a few horned 
cattle and horses, which can be obtained at the usual price, 
sixteen dollars each in trade ; of course none but the best 
horses would be paid for so well ; and a cow with calf is 



* Flat-bottomed narrow and long native boats, cut out of the trunk 
of a tree, generally mahogany, or cedar. 

t An Oushner is a kind of a net, made from the bark of a tree, 

c 2 



20 RESIDENCE ON THE 

only to be considered as worth the sixteen dollars. Young 
heifers and bulls are charged for according to their ages. The 
horses are small, and not capable of enduring much fatigue ; 
they have an awkward trick, when galloping, of diverging into 
the bush, so that bad falls are often occasioned to the un- 
guarded. Sometimes the rider's leg will be forcibly struck 
against a tree, or he will be left suspended in its branches, 
while the horse gladly seizes the opportunity to escape, once more 
to gallop in freedom over the extensive savannas, soon, however, 
to be caught again. The natives, when they want a horse, take 
their lassoos, (ropes made from the bark of the maho tree) ; 
a noose is made at one end, and they make several coils 
up in their right hand, and on a horse being driven close to 
them, no matter if at its full speed, its career is stopped by 
the noose of the lassoo, which has been whirled round the 
Indians head to gain impetus, and which catches it by the 
neck, leg, or other part, and in a moment the affrighted 
creature is in the power of man. So dexterous indeed are 
some of the natives, that they rarely miss, especially when 
they use a hempen rope, as it is heavier than maho ; the noose 
keeps its form better, and it can be thrown to a much greater 
distance. The manner of taming horses is very singular : — 
when a horse is to be tamed, a native fastens a long rope to its 
head, and takes hold of the other end ; it is then driven into 
shallow Avater, about up to a man's loins ; when this is effected, 
another advances cautiously towards the horse, and endeavours 
to leap on his back, in which he is assisted by the person at 
the end of the rope, and who, with such purchase, pulls 
vigorously, and turns the horse round to facilitate his com- 
panion's attempts ; but as the snorting and maddened creature 
plunges and rears, the native with the stealthiness and activity 
of a cat jumps on its bare back, and instantly commences 
beating the horse's head with his open hands, first on one side, 
then on the other ; in vain the horse endeavours to rid himself 
of his rider ; the native Avith the rope pulls, and the one on his 
back beats him, till at last his strength and spirit give way. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 21 

and he becomes completely subdued. So severe is the lesson, 
however, that sometimes a horse will lie on the beach ex- 
hausted, and at the sound of the human voice will tremble 
violently. Sometimes the rider gets thrown, but as he only 
falls into the water, it is of no consequence ; he again leaps on 
the horse's back and renews the battle ; it is rarely that more 
than one lesson is required to completely master and break the 
proud spirit of the before untamed horse. Many of the native 
horses, by taming, become dull and require to be flogged into 
exertion ; on the contrary, I have known others to be fast, and 
free from vice or tricks of any sort. Most of the horses at the 
Cape are disfigured, by having their ears completely eaten 
away, or so much so, as to drop, which destroys their beauty ; 
this is done by a species of insect called tick,* the natives being 
too indolent to relieve the poor horses from them. Horses are 
often bitten at night by bats, which cause bad sores. The natives 
ride them bare backed, putting only a few leaves and herbage 
over any sore, so that when a horse belonging to a native has 
a sore back, he rarely gets cured ; for if he is turned out on 
the savanna, the flies torment him to death. 

The- guana is very plentiful ; it lives upon flowers and the 
blossoms of trees, and is much esteemed, being considered a 
greater delicacy than a fowl; its eggs are delicious. Fowls 
can be obtained for one yard of Osnaburg or two egg-cups 
of powder, &c. each ; pigs can be got for three or four yards 
of print, &c. each; very good oysters are brought from 
the mangrove bush on San Pio, and are much sought after ; 
they grow on the branches just above water. The bank oysters 
are in great plenty to the southward of the Cape. Fish abounds 
in the bay in great variety; mullet, calipever, snook, drummer, 
sun-fish, angel-fish, jew-fish, topham, sheephead, stone-bass, 
&c. and with a proper seine plenty can always be got, except in 
very rough weather. It is customary for the natives to haul 
the seine, taking one moiety of the fish caught for themselves, 

* The most effectual thing to destroy ticks, is essence of tar. 



22 RESIDENCE ON THE 

the owner of the seine taking the other. The natives often 
strike the fish at night, by paddling along in their doreys, 
holding up pitch-pine torches, which, throwing a glare of light 
upon the water, attract the fish to the spot, when they are 
immediately struck. Sometimes on a dark night the bay 
appears studded with lights from the numerous torches of the 
natives, who skirt the mangrove bush, and wade and twist their 
bodies through its entwining roots and branches. Holding 
their torches close to the water, they strike the fish with their 
macheets as they appear. The natives are also particularly 
dexterous with their striking staffs ; one termed a sinnock is 
very long. A native stands on the bow of his pitpan, which is 
slowly paddled along by another at the stern ; he sees a fish 
and transfixes it with the harpoon, the staff not being thrown 
from his hand. The staff called a waisko doucer, is much 
shorter, and it is astonishing to see with what skill the fast 
swimming fish are stopped in their progress, by being struck 
by the harpoons, although they may be some yards distant. 
The staff has at the end a hole, in which the harpoon with a 
line attached is introduced ; the line is wound round a piece of 
wood, which is fastened to the other end of the staff. When 
the staff is thrown, the harpoon remains in the fish, its pro- 
gress being arrested by the piece of wood which acts as a float, 
and is speedily laid hold of by the fishers, 

There are snakes of various kinds : the plappan sawyer, the 
golden snake, the whip snake, the Tommy Goff, the barber 's- 
pole, &c, the two latter being the most dangerous; the only 
known remedy for their bite, is the root called guaco, which can 
be easily obtained from the island of Roatan. The root when 
collected, is dried and steeped in strong spirit, brandy being- 
preferable; two or three glasses of which should be immediately 
drunk by the person bitten, and some rubbed on the wound, and 
a ligature fastened tightly over it. This treatment has never 
failed, when adopted in time. I attended two cases, and ad- 
ministered the guaco in both successfully. The Spaniards know 
this root well, and say, that Providence has wisely ordained that 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 23 

wherever snakes abound, the antidote also abounds. Many of 
the Caribs residing to the westward of Black River, are famed 
as snake doctors, and readily cure any bite; they assert that the 
only remedy for a bite of the Tommy Goff, is the oil of its 
head, which they prize highly ; if one of them happens to kill 
a Tommy Goff, the head is cut off, and the oil extracted over a 
slow fire. It is very rarely that a person is attacked. A 
young man, who accompanied me from England, was in a 
pitpan with some natives in a narrow creek, where they dis- 
turbed a Tommy Goff, which flew towards them, and fastened 
its teeth on the side of the pitpan. The natives jumped into 
the water, the young man followed, when one of them with a 
paddle killed the reptile. The largest snake is the Wowlah ; 
it is not venemous, and will not attack man unless irritated. 
This snake makes great havoc amongst fowls ; and the natives 
affirm that it destroys the venomous species of snake on all 
occasions. I have seen it pursuing one. The natives do not 
harm it, therefore the white people do not. All the snakes in 
this country that have flat heads, no matter of what colour, are 
venomous. Those with round heads are harmless, and the 
natives take up some species, and suffer them to crawl about 
their persons. 

At the Cape mosquitos are not troublesome while there is 
the slightest breeze from seaward, and as the wind is generally 
blowing on the land, they are not much thought of or cared for. 
In calm weather they are annoying, so that a pavilion is 
absolutely necessary to protect one from their attacks ; sand- 
flies are at times numerous and worrying — these are so minute, 
as to escape detection until the mischief is done. There is 
another insect, excessively troublesome and unpleasant, the 
chegoe-flea; it is very small, and contrives to fix itself to the 
feet, generally under the nails, and in time forms a bag and 
deposits eggs; its operations are discovered by a peculiar 
itching. The bag must be extracted without being broken, 
and the hole filled up with tobacco ashes and salt; cleanliness 
will not always secure a person from an occasional attack ; but 



24 RESIDENCE ON THE 

those who neglect that very important duty, will suffer. It 
has been known, that from such inattention, dangerous sores 
have accrued, particularly on the feet and hands; plenty of 
water thrown on the floor will destroy them, as well as most 
other insects. Ants are very annoying; the earth in some 
places teems with them ; the fire-ants are particularly so ; and 
if a person happen to fall over a nest of them, he must get 
into the water to rid himself of his tormentors. These ants 
encroach on the cupboard also, and at times are exceedingly 
troublesome ; the best w T ay to prevent their encroachments is 
to have a close wire safe suspended by a rope kept tarred. 
The wee-wees, a large ant, do much damage to the plantations. 
The population of the Cape must have been at one time 
numerous ; it is said that they could once produce 1000 men 
capable of bearing arms, — now they cannot muster 150 ; the 
small-pox and drunkenness having committed woeful ravages. 
I may well say in the words of a celebrated writer, " Unfortu- 
nate people ! to have strangers come amongst them as friends, 
who have proved their deadliest foes. Unhappy countries ! 
where man, for the sake of gain, destroys by liquid poison so 
many of the human race," 






MOSQUITO SHORE. 25 



CHAPTER III. 



Arrival of the King — His Character and Appearance — A Murderer — 
His Capture— Trial — Execution — The Boolpees — Description of the 
Natives— Their Dress — Anecdote of a Missionary — Manner of Burial 
amongst the Natives — Method of making Mushla — Description of a 
Native Festival— Arrival of Mahogany Cutters — Native Beverages — 
New Columbians — Boca del Toro — San Bias Indians — Mosquito Men 
— Anecdote of a Mosquito Man left on the Island of Juan Fernandez 
— Services of the Mosquito Men during the Maroon War — Deteriora- 
tion of the present Race — No dread of Death. 

A few days after our arrival, the king, accompanied by a 
number of people called soldiers and quarter-masters, came 
in pitpans, from his residence at Wasla, which is about seven 
days' travel up the Wanks river. 

On being presented, and delivering our credentials and 

gifts, he appeared highly delighted, and taking each of us by 

the hand in turn, said slowly and distinctly, " You are my 

very good friend." The king looked remarkably well, he 

was dressed in the uniform of a post captain in the British 

navy, and his deportment was very quiet and reserved, 

although he seemed amused when any favourite subject was 

started ; altogether he made a most favourable impression. 

The king is extremely liberal, and made us a present of some 

young bulls. He seems much attached to the English, as do 

all the natives. During the life time of the late king, George 

Frederic, any Englishman could traverse from one end of the 

country to the other, without the expense of a yard of cloth, 

for-the king's orders to all were to feed and lodge them, and 

provide them with horses if they were wanted. Nearly all the 



20 RESIDENCE ON THE 

old chiefs who used to adopt that custom are now dead, the 
younger ones being more mercenary, though there are some 
honourable exceptions. 

A few days after landing, we employed some natives to build a 
store, cut timbers and hone leaves for thatch, when one of them 
was privately pointed out to us as having been concerned in 
the murder of two Englishmen, Collins and Pollard, some 
time since, when hawks-bill-turtling on one of the small 
kays, and for which oifence two natives had already been 
executed ; both declaring that this man, Deverin, was the 
original proposer of the murder ; the most singular part of the 
affair was, that Deverin had not been seen at the Cape, until 
he hired himself to me, when he gave his name BelL On 
hearing all these circumstances, I particularly remarked the 
man, and was forcibly struck with his features and form, — his 
dark and scowling eyes, and low forehead almost concealed by- 
thick curly black hair, which was tied behind somewhat in the 
shape of a woman's top knot, and then fell into a tail behind, 
which with a swarthy black painted face, and tall and sinewey 
frame, rendered him conspicuous. He was disfigured, as 
many of the natives are, by having over his body white and 
livid spots on his copper coloured skin, occasioned by a species 
of leprosy to which these people are subject. He was dressed 
in an Osnaburg frock, and a tournou tied round his loins. 
When the king arrived, the few English, with his concurrence, 
went amongst the natives and captured the prisoner. His 
brother rushed forward to his aid, but on a pistol being pre- 
sented, he stopped as if electrified, for the natives have far 
greater dread of a pistol than of a gun. In a moment the tumult 
was hushed, and he was taken to a place of security to await 
his trial, on a second charge of killing and slaying Lyndia, 
an aunt of the king's. 

The next morning the trial commenced before three magis- 
trates and the king ; all the white people at the Cape, and 
several natives attended. The king was dressed in his plain 
clothes^ but had his naval sword and hat with him ; he listened 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 27 

attentively, and repeatedly testified his pleasure at having the 
prisoner tried in the English fashion. A jury having been 
formed, and a person well acquainted with the language ap- 
pointed as interpreter, several witnesses fully proved that the 
prisoner had maliciously shot Lyndia, the king's aunt. He 
said nothing in his defence ; he was, therefore, after a patient 
investigation in the open air, under some cocoa nut trees, 
unanimously found guilty by the jury, and sentenced to be 
hanged. To this sentence the natives around shewed no 
symptom of dissent or dissatisfaction. The prisoner be- 
trayed no emotion, but simply requested that the sookeah* 
woman, who advised him to the deed, might be sent for ; 
messengers were immediately despatched, who soon returned 
bringing the wretched woman who had by her advice brought 
the prisoner to an untimely end. After a long conversation, the 
king started up, saying angrily, "Let the woman go! — take 
the man away — to-morrow he dies." The relatives of Deverin 
ran up on his being hand-cuffed, and eagerly kissed him, 
weeping piteously ; he was then carried off, and confined on 
board the brig, at the request of the king. 

On the following day the king, accompanied by some of the 
English and a few of his quarter-masters, proceeded to the 
place of execution, a large tree by the side of the fort. About 
eleven a. m. the brig's boat took the prisoner ashore, guarded 
by some armed seamen ; he was apparelled in a checked shirt 
and a pair of white trowsers, given him by the captain of the 
brig. On his landing, the cries and wailings of the women 
and children collected together were heart-rending; some 
would throw themselves franticly on the sand before the pri- 
soner's feet, their bodies streaming with blood ; others would 
vent the most piercing shrieks, while some would moan and 
ciy in a piteous manner ; indeed, I scarcely ever felt so com- 
pletely saddened. The brother of Deverin came up, his eyes 
suffused with tears, and said, " Englis gentlemen, me poor 

* Native Doctor. 



28 RESIDENCE ON THE 

feller, me your slave ; let me broder go, he neber truble any 
more ;" and as the prisoner approached the tree to which the 
fatal cord was suspended, the more heart-rending was the 
spectacle ; for it was difficult to keep his relatives from impeding 
his progress by clinging round his legs. At length arriving at 
the place of execution, the cord was adjusted, and he was 
launched into eternity. The dreadful scene was at last ter- 
minated; the signal gun fired from the brig, and the flag 
lowered half-mast high ; the king causing it to be proclaimed, 
that any of his people who did wrong, should be hung, and 
warning them to beware of putting faith, or following the bad 
advice of the sookeahs. 

The inhabitants of the Cape are allowed by all to be the best 
looking on the shore, when not dsfigured by the unsightly 
boolpees, of which there are three sorts, the white, blue, and 
scabbed ; but I believe the Cape people to have less of either 
than any of their countiymen. To account for this species 
of leprosy seems to be impossible, as I have seen father and 
mother perfectly free from stain, and their children growing 
daily worse from its insidious attack ; on the other hand, I 
have observed the parents in an aggravated stage of the dis- 
ease, and their offspring perfectly free from it. 

The men are in general tall and athletic, with a very pleasing 
expression of features, but they are abominably lazy, subsisting 
by hunting and fishing and the produce of their plantations, 
which the women attend to. It is not always they can be 
moved from their apathy, even by the inducement of liquor 
or Osnaburg. I spoke to one huge fellow, requesting he 
would come and work for me ; his reply was, as he lazily 
turned in his hammock, " Me no want hook — me no want 
Osnabris ;" consequently he refused to leave his hut, as he 
already had hooks and Osnaburgs. Most of the men at the 
Cape speak English sufficiently well to be understood, some of 
them speak very well, which, however, is easily accounted for, 
inasmuch as numbers of them go aAvay at different times to 
Balize, where they sometimes stay two or three years, employed 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 29 

by the merchants as hunters and fishers. The women are very 
good looking, with large black eyes ; generally well shaped, 
with small feet and ancles. Many of their young girls from 
thirteen to about eighteen, are, I may say, beautiful. Their 
dress is simply a tournou, which they fasten round their hips ; 
they have also a piece of Osnaburg or print round their bodies, 
and hanging down as low as their knees ; the legs and the 
body from the waist upwards being bare, except on the occa- 
sion of their festivals, when they fasten more print higher up 
the bosom. Round their wrists, ancles, and legs, they wear 
bandages made from the native cotton, and dyed blue or red ; or 
blue, red, and white beads, strung in various ways. To describe 
the dress of the men is impossible, the variations are so numer- 
ous ; some having nothing but a tournou, others black hats, 
(pieces of some gaudy ribbon being tied round them,) and 
checked shirts ; others again, wear Osnaburg frocks and red 
caps ; indeed, the more connection they have with the English, 
the more varied becomes their costume ; although the inter- 
course with white people does not at all times tend to increase 
their morality. 

A short time back a missionary arrived, for the purpose of 
giving them some idea of a future state ; a house was speedily 
found for him, and he commenced preaching, and for a few 
Sundays he gave some of the chiefs a glass of grog each, to 
entice them to hear him. At length, one Sunday, a great 
number of the natives attended to hear the white stranger 
talk ; on this occasion the worthy and reverend gentleman was 
more than usually eloquent, when one of the chiefs arose, and 
quietly said, " All talk — no grog — no good !" and gravely 
stalked away, followed by all the natives, leaving the astonished 
preacher to finish his discourse to two or three Englishmen 
present. 

Other attempts have been made to bring them from this state 
of blind ignorance, but with the same result. I think it of 
little use teaching the old people ; they must begin by establish- 
ing schools for the young children, so that in one generation a 



30 RESIDENCE ON THE 

great change might he effected, as the children are very apt, 
and report speaks very highly of the king's son, Clarence, 
who was at school at Balize when I left. 

On the death of any of the Mosquito Indians, the family of 
the deceased cut a pitpan in half, and carry it to the hurying 
place ; the body is then taken to the place of interment, the 
grave dug, the body put in one half of the pitpan, and covered 
with the other ; some cassada, a bow and arrows, or a spear, 
being first put in, so that the deceased may be prepared for 
hunting, as they say, when he awakes. The coffin is then 
lowered into the grave, and several vollies fired over it ; a 
pitcher of water is placed at the head of the grave, and a small 
thatched hut erected over it. When this is done, the men 
immediately proceed to cut down every cocoa-nut tree belong- 
ing to the deceased ; which foolish and reprehensible custom 
accounts for the very great scarcity of those valuable trees in 
the country ; and, after some short time has elapsed, the 
family of the deceased commence collecting a great quantity 
of the Eourer, (cassada,) for the purpose of making a species 
of intoxicating liquor — Mushla, which, when finished, is 
drunk at a feast called a seekroe, held in memory of the 
departed. 

Their manner of making mushla, is this : — they obtain as 
much of the root as they require, they then peel, and boil it in 
large iron-pots ; from fifteen to twenty persons seat themselves 
on each side of a dorey, and commence the process of masti- 
cation with great energy ; this operation being completed, the 
result is transferred to the dorey, when they add to the 
composition, a quantity of sugar-cane liquor, which causes 
fermentation, and in twenty-four hours, or less, it is fit to 
drink ; it is then put into casks, which they obtain from the 
English. Mushla has a cream-like appearance, and is ex- 
tremely sour. At the expiration of a year or so, they have 
another seekroe, with the addition of a John-canoe, a particular 
kind of dance. I attended one of these meetings about seven 
P.M., and on my arrival, found a large concourse of Indians 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 31 

busily employed in drinking their mushla ; a green fence had 
been raised sufficiently high to prevent the women from observ- 
ing the operations of the two John-canoe men. These men 
were attired something like our Jacks-in-the-green, — they had 
head-dresses, composed of thin wood finely scraped and painted 
with red and black streaks, descending to the shoulders, from 
whence cocoa-nut leaves, stripped from the main stalk, were 
attached, and so placed that nothing could be seen of the natives 
but their feet. On the top of each dress was an exact repre- 
sentation of the saw of a saw-fish, which was likewise daubed 
with red, yellow, and black patches ; the two men advancing 
and retreating with a crab-like movement, occasionally bending 
their unwieldy head gear to each other ceremoniously, but in 
so comical a manner as to excite great laughter, which was 
much increased by their singing in the most singular tones, 
"Yapte tarra, — yapte tarra, — pine yapte," (grandmother, 
grandmother, good grandmother.) The Indians have small 
tubes in their mouths, by which they produce a curious noise, 
prolonging it at pleasure. As soon as the John-canoe men 
are wearied, two others take their places, and proceed in the 
same manner, the same monotonous sounds being heard with- 
out cessation till day dawns. 

At another part a number of the natives assemble with long 
white sticks, when they immediately commence following the 
leader, most grotesquely stalking round a circle, singing out 
loudly and lustily, " Kilkaro yapte ke, — kilkaro yapte ke," 
(shovel-nosed sharks, mother.) What their motive can possi- 
bly be in calling for the assistance of Mrs. Shovel-nose Shark, 
is inexplicable, and all they know about it is, that their fathers 
used to call for her aid, and so do they. On the other side of 
the fence were a number of men, women, and children, attired 
in the most varied manner, some with red caps and frocks, 
some strutting about with half a shirt ; one looked remarkably 
important with an old white hat and a faded vest ; another, with 
a pair of ragged trowsers and a straw hat, seemed sufficiently 
impressed with his own dignity ; while those men who had the 



32 RESIDENCE ON THE 

luxury of the native Indian cloaks, flashed their inestimable 
prizes in the eyes of the females, in the hope of making a con- 
quest of their tender hearts. On my asking any of them, 
" What is your name ?" they, with indescribable importance, 
would reply, " Mister Admiral Rodney," " Mister Colonel 
Pablo," " Mister Lord Nelson," " Mister Jim Strapp." At 
a given signal, the young girls and women formed a circle, 
holding each other round the waist by the left arm, each having 
in their right hands a cocoa-nut calabash, with a few beads 
within it. Some of the women had their infants fastened to 
their backs, somewhat after the fashion of the gipseys. They 
then commence bending and raising their bodies simultaneously, 
and wriggling about in the most extraordinary manner, shaking 
their calabashes, and singing " Ahwee ah mah, ahwee ah mah, 
mah, mah," till they are, by sheer exhaustion, compelled to stop; 
but on recovering their breath, they resume their dance, sing- 
ing " Ideum, ideum, ideum," and other different songs. 

Whilst the natives were enjoying themselves, handing the 
mushla from one to the other, the sound of drums were heard 
rapidly advancing, and in a short time there arrived several 
mahogany cutters, who had just come down from some 
mahogany works on the Wanks River, consisting of Creoles, 
from Balize, and Caribs, from Little Rock, to the westward of 
Black River; who, after greeting their Mosquito friends, and 
making very low bows to the English, commenced dancing 
with might and main, the drums being played very well with 
their open hands. The scene to us was so perfectly strange, 
so much like a burlesque on Old Drury, and yet so real, and 
in such vivid colours, as to be striking and picturesque ; the 
Caribs with their red trowsers, caps, white shirts, and dark 
complexions, — the Creoles, in snow-white clothes, with their 
shiny black and merry faces, — the copper coloured Indians, — 
and the pale faced Englishmen. The women and children 
were squatting down, smoking and passing their pipes to each 
other, while ever and anon, large calabashes of their nectar 
were quaffed. The light from the numerous pine torches 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 33 

illumining all around, and shedding faint rays into the bush, 
in which might be heard the croaking tree -toad, the whole 
scene being enlivened by those beautiful insects, the fire-flies, 
glancing to and fro with their soft and gemmy light. 

The women invariably hide the men's weapons before the 
commencement of their rejoicings, or dangerous consequences 
might often ensue ; for it is a custom to let their quarrels rest 
until they get inflamed by their filthy mushla; when, not 
finding their macheets, (a kind of cutlass,) they set to work 
fighting, as they say, " Englis fashion," being a most absurd 
imitation, as they have no idea of guarding or stopping, but 
receive and exchange blow for blow, until one declares himself 
beaten. 

They have several other species of liquor, but none so 
intoxicating as that made from cassada. They extract a sweet 
kind of beverage from ripe plantains, which they call plato 
lire ; another from pine-apples, which is very good, they term 
peto lire, The extract from the sugar-cane, they call caryu 
lire ; and from many other fruits and vegetables they manage 
to obtain liquor pleasing to their tastes. 

During our residence at the Cape, we were constantly hearing 
of proposed aggressions of the New Columbians, and particularly 
of their having threatened to take Corn Island, at which king 
Robert Charles Frederic was justly exasperated ; and one of his 
chiefs, Lowry Robinson, made an offer to go against them, if 
musquets and ammunition could be got for his men. One of 
the finest harbours in the world, (Boca del Toro,) is, it is said, 
illegally in the possession of the New Columbians, and they 
even laid claim to the Mosquito Shore, as far as Cape Gracias 
a. Dios. The English residing at the Cape drew up a memo- 
rial respecting these aggressions, which was taken by the 
king to Balize, to lay before the superintendent. Some time 
in 1841, a sloop of war (the Tweed), with the superintendent, 
proceeded, it was said, to ascertain the boundaries of the 
Mosquito king's territory, and for other purposes; and it 
was imagined by some, that that valuable spot would be again 



34 RESIDENCE ON THE 

annexed to his dominions. It was during this visit, that the 
slaves on Corn Island were declared free. According to all 
accounts, it would be a splendid place for a settlement, and if 
taken in hand would, no doubt, with the advantage of its 
noble harbours, soon become a prosperous English colony. 
In case of war, this port would be invaluable, and the different 
Indian tribes around would find their account in the abundance 
of hardware, cloth, &c. which would soon be scattered amongst 
them. The Valiente Indians, the San Bias, and others, would 
doubtless permit the English to have stores amongst them, if 
treated with kindness and strict probity. It is only within the 
last few years, that the San Bias would allow any trade to be 
carried on with them on the main land, it having previously 

been conducted on one of the kays, until Captain S , a 

trader, by conciliation and repeated presents, induced them to 
consent to trade with them on the coast ; this being, I believe, 
the first instance of these people entering into such friendly 
arrangements. 

Since that period Captain S has constantly visited them, 

and is at all times received with manifestations of the liveliest 
public joy, such as drumming, dancing, singing, &c. The 
captain, when I saw him at the Cape, had several San Bias 
Indians in his vessel, who acted as sailors, and who appeared 
very intelligent and useful. To the Spaniards they bear the 
most implacable hatred, and this grudge is doubtless of ancient 
date. 

Some time ago, when Captain S was trading on the coast 

with his small schooner, he was attacked by a Central American 
privateer of much greater force and full of men. After a long 
and unequal battle, in which the captain was wounded, his 
chief mate shot through the throat, and several of his San 
Bias Indians much hurt, he was compelled to strike his flag, 
though his faithful Indians fought to the utmost against their 
inveterate enemies. 

The Mosquito men have, from time immemorial, been noted 
for courage and activity, and with good leaders, there is 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 35 

no doubt, would act as bravely as they did when following the 
old English buccaniers. In reading many of the stories related 
of those desperadoes, we find that the Mosquito Indians were 
always their faithful allies and friends, following them with 
invincible fortitude in their attacks against the Spaniards, 
acting as guides, wood-cutters, hunters, and fishers ; indeed, 
without such assistance, the buccaniers would often have fared 
badly enough. Through a long series of years, the same love 
which prompted their fathers to assist one set of Englishmen, 
induced their sons to serve another; and thus it is now, 
though certainly in a less degree, that the Mosquitians love 
and respect an Englishman, but dislike a Spaniard ; and they 
have a term of contempt which they invariably use when 
speaking of the latter, namely, Little Breeches, because the 
calzones of the lower class of Spaniards only reach to the 
knees. 

It may be recollected that an affecting story is told, I think 
by Dampier, of a Mosquito man, named William, being left 
on the island of Juan Fernandez by accident, where he con- 
trived to subsist for three years, and even to surround himself 
with many little comforts. At the expiration of that period 
he discovered two vessels, which he thought were Spanish, 
and in his consternation he ran and hid himself in the woods, 
but on again observing the ships from another point, he con- 
cluded they must belong to his friends the English. He 
therefore returned to his hut, killed a kid, and made a large 
fire on the beach, the smoke of which attracted attention, and 
brought a boat to the shore, when to his surprise, the first 
person who jumped on the beach was his countryman, Robin. 
The greeting between these affectionate creatures was most 
affecting, for after so long a separation, all hopes of William's 
existence had long subsided. One of the captains, in the 
course of his cruize, landed the loving friends on their native 
shore. \ 

Again, on reference to Bryan Edwards' work, we find that 
during the Jamaica Maroon War, the House of Assembly 



36 RESIDENCE ON THE 

engaged 200 Mosquito Shore Indians, to act as auxiliaries ; 
they were allowed 40s. a month for pay, besides shoes and 
other articles. They gave proofs of great sagacity. It was 
their custom to observe profound silence on marching to the 
enemy's quarters, and when they once hit upon a track, they 
were sure to discover the haunt to which it led. They effected 
considerable service, and were, indeed, the most proper troops 
to be employed in that species of action, which is known by 
the name of bush fighting. They were well rewarded for their 
good conduct, and afterwards dismissed to their country, when 
the pacifications took place with the Maroons. 

The Mosquito men of the present day, I think, have de- 
generated ; the causes being the great increase of drunkenness, 
and the want of good chiefs to stimulate them ; and such is 
their degraded condition, that in a few generations, there will 
be but few left to tell the tale. The white man advancing one 
way, and the Caribs with their rapidly spreading population 
increasing in another, will eventually sweep the Indian from his 
native haunts, and civilization will extend its arms and embrace 
a shore, which has been for ages in a state of blind superstition 
and ignorance. From my own observations, however, I am 
led to believe, that if the Mosquitians had good leaders, and 
could be reclaimed from their habits of drunkenness, the spirit 
of their ancestors would soon be rekindled among them ; and, 
perhaps, their minds would become fitted for the boon of educa- 
tion. At present their moral condition is lamentable : they 
have no fear of death, and they look upon its approach with 
far greater calmness than any philosopher amongst us. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 37 



CHAPTER IV. 

Departure from the Cupe— Arrival off Black River— Bad Winds— Obliged 
to run for the Island of Bonacca— The Amity strikes on a Coral Reef 
— Bravery of the Mosquito Men— Get on a Kay— Solitary Scotchman 
—Manner of Jumping Turtle — Lost in the Woods— Beautiful Scenery 
— Affection of the Mosquito Men — An Account of Bonacca Fishing 
— Strange appearances at the bottom of the Water, by the side of the 
Coral Reefs — Healtbfulness of the Island — Traces of Inhabitants — 
Cocoa-Nut Trees — Making Oil — Varieties — Wild Hogs — Soldier 
Snails — Snakes — Arrival of Carib Creer from Truxillo — Set sail from 
Bonacca — Arrival at Sereboyer, a Carib Town. 

After I had resided a few months at the Cape, and completed 
all necessary business there, a small schooner, the " Amity," 

of about sixteen tons, belonging to Mr. H , was freighted 

for Black River, with such disposable goods and few remain- 
ing stores as had not already been shipped off for that place ; 
our Superintendent, and the others of our small party, having 
started some time previously overland, under the guidance of 
the principal man in that quarter, General Lowry, to commence 
operations at Black River. 

One of my fellow voyagers from England, Mr. W. Upton, 
established at the Cape, embraced the opportunity of accom- 
panying me to see the country about the new settlement at 
Black River. We set sail in March, 1840, with a crew 
consisting of the captain and one sailor English, and three 
Mosquito men, but were detained several days by contrary 
winds, near Wanks River Mouth, not being able to round 
Main Cape ; at length a favourable breeze sprung up, and we 
soon arrived off Black River Bar, but found it would be 



38 RESIDENCE ON THE 

dangerous to run it, the wind blowing furiously from the north 
east, and we having no pilot on board ; General Lowry, who 
sometimes acts as pilot, not being at his residence when we 
hove to in the night. In this extremity the captain determined 
to stand on and off, expecting a lull to take place, and hoping 
to fetch Plantain River ; instead of which, both wind and sea 
increased, and in the morning we were much to leeward. Our 
fresh water was nearly expended, and there appeared no 
probability of making Black River, for upon every tack our 
dull schooner lost way ; we, therefore, put ourselves on short 
allowance, being seven in number. Towards night the wind 
slightly moderated, but with the same result; no chance 
remaining, while the wind held in the same quarter, of doing 
any good. 

In the morning the wind increased again, and the sea running 
heavier, while we were suffering from intense heat with only a 
pint of water each per diem, our captain determined to run for 
some other port ; and as Bonacca was distant only sixty miles, 
we accordingly shaped our course for that island, and on the 
following morning it was descried ; the wind being still ex- 
tremely violent, and to all appearance increasing. As much 
sail was carried as the schooner could possibly stagger under, 
and at seven p. m. just as the moon arose, we passed the first 
kay, and others rapidly in succession, it being the captain's 
intention to anchor under the lee of Half-Moon Kay. In a 
short time we entered the channel and thought all danger over, 
and we were on the point of congratulating ourselves on 
escaping the fury of the gale now blowing outside, when the 
main boom broke in half, on gibing ; the jib haulyards parted, 
. and before the anchor could be got out, the poor Amity struck 
on a coral reef; the wind, which was blowing directly through 
the channel upon us, driving the sea with such force against 
the schooner, as to make complete breaches over her, as she 
was lying with her broadside exposed to its fury ; a rock out 
of water being on her lee bow, and another on her weather 
quarter, so that there was no chance of relieving her. We 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 39 

fired signals of distress, having heard that a Scotchman lived 
on one of the kays, but no one came to our aid. In this 
emergency, our attention was directed to save the goods ; I 
promised to reward the people well, if they exerted themselves, 
which they agreed to do, and immediately set to work to get 
the property out of the hold. Fortunately we had a small 
dorey with us, and before twelve o'clock five or six loads were 
landed on Half-Moon Kay, about one mile and a half distant ; 
but this service was attended with great difficulty and danger, 
the dorey having been swamped two or three times, and all the 
goods capsized. The brave Mosquito men having promised 
that nothing should be lost, dived for them by the light of the 
full moon, and saved them all, but not without being sadly cut 
and exhausted. 

At one p. m., as nearly as we could calculate, the tide began 
to come in ; our situation was bad enough before, now, how- 
ever, it was much worse, for every sea made a complete sweep 
over us, rendering it highly dangerous for the dorey to 
approach, while we were faint with toil, and miserably wet and 
cold. 

On .the return of the dorey, the two Mosquito men, after 
some trouble, succeeded in getting to leeward of us, and when 
more goods were ready to be put in this little craft, they said, 
" No, massa, no take em, we come for you — rock-stone cut too 
much;" poor fellows ! they were both badly cut by the coral 
and sea eggs, in diving for the things that had been upset. 
The danger of our situation now increased, so that nothing 
more could be done. Mr. Upton, therefore, went on shore 
with them, taking some more goods and two or three small 
articles and papers ; the men promising to return immediately. 
On their departure, the English sailor, a Mosquito man and 
myself, battened down the hatches, and placed all the goods 
we were able to get out of the hold on the weather side of the 
deck, and when all was done, sat down wounded in body and 
mind. On examining our situation, we found that we were 



40 RESIDENCE ON THE 

on a white reef of coral, and that at the distance of ten yards 
to leeward we should be in deep blue water, and we had some 
fears of being driven over the reef and immediately sinking, as 
the poor schooner was much bilged. In many places around 
us we observed little patches of rock, which seemed to be 
dancing merrily in the moon's rays, as if inviting us to their 
festival ; and so strange did every thing appear, we could 
hardly believe our eyes. Numbers of sea eggs were seen in 
all directions, and we well knew the danger of getting amongst 
them, as they have long and sharp pointed spines, which 
inflict deep and dangerous wounds on those who chance 
to tread on them. Some considerable time having elapsed, and 
no dorey arriving, we set to work, getting together the long 
oars, spare spars, &c. to form a raft, so that in case of necessity 
we might have something to trust to. Having lashed the 
spars, &c. together, we were on the point of attaching a water 
cask to each end, when we heard the welcome cry of " Kisar, 
kisar, wop !" (Be quick !) of our faithful men, who relieved us 
from our miserable situation about three a. m. ; and on landing 
on the kay without dry clothing or covering, we nestled our- 
selves near trie fire that had been made, and wearied nature 
soon found repose. 

On examining the kay at daylight, we could not discover 
any fresh water, and were therefore compelled to resort to 
cocoa-nut water, which although refreshing, was but an in- 
different substitute. On the wind moderating, our Mosquitians 
went over to the island and brought a supply from one of the 
numerous gulleys on the island. 

Having a large tarpaulin, we erected a tent, under which 
to place our goods, whilst we suspended our hammocks be- 
tween the cocoa-nut trees, their thick and widely spreading 
leaves sufficiently sheltering us from the rays of the noon-tide 
sun. We had taken the precaution of cutting down the large 
nuts hanging over our heads, to prevent unpleasant conse- 
quences. One of our Mosquito men also struck a large 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 41 

grouper, a remarkably fine fish, with his staff, as it was swim- 
ming leisurely by, which proved a great treat to us all, it being 
quickly converted into a stew. 

The Mosquito men, William and Ben, and myself, pro- 
ceeded the next day in the small dorey, and after two hours 
paddling, found the Scotchman, residing on Frenchman's, 
otherwise Sheen's Kay. He seemed delighted at our arrival, 
and said he had heard our guns coming from the white shoal, 
on the night we were on the reef, but was unable to render us 
any assistance, having only the use of one arm, the other being 
disabled by a fall from a tree. He was, therefore, prevented 
from either fishing or hunting, as he could not, with one hand, 
paddle his dorey. Sometimes the poor fellow remains for 
three or four months quite alone, setting his nets in the proper 
season for the green turtle, which he disposes of by the help 
of some men who remain with him for a short period, and then 
set sail to Truxillo, Balize, &cc. His companions were then, 
he said, on the other side of the island felling pitch-pine trees, 
so as to carry a cargo to Truxillo for sale, and to hunt the wild 
hogs, previous to their departure, so that they might salt 
some of the meat for their passage to and fro, and sell the 
remainder, to purchase the various things required in mending 
his nets. The boat being large enough to carry us and the 
goods saved from the Amity, to Black River, he advised us to 
proceed on the following morning. 

On our return to Half-Moon Kay, we had the exceedingly 
good fortune to strike two large fish, and to jump two hawk's- 
bill turtle. The manner of jumping turtle is singular : — as we 
paddled along the edges of a shoal, William's eyes were 
suddenly attracted by a distant object; he made a signal to 
Ben, when they both began paddling in a violent manner, now 
on one side, then on the other, backwards, forwards — all their 
energies being directed to something in the water, which I in 
vain tried to discover. At length they succeeded in effecting 
their object, which was to drive the turtle into shallow water ; 
suddenly William jumped overboard, and before I had recovered 



42 RESIDENCE ON THE 

from my astonishment, he re-appeared, holding a hawk's-bill 
turtle over his head. The second one captured bit him severely, 
he not having laid hold of it in the usual manner, owing to 
some difficulty he encountered. Passing one of the kays, we 
observed an immense quantity of large conks, many of which 
we collected, as they make good stews, and are the best bait 
for fish. 

On reaching the kay, we made a hearty supper from turtle 
soup, stewed grouper, and fried Johnny-cakes ; I turned into 
my hammock, resolving to start again at day break. At sun- 
rise I proceeded, according to the old Scotchman's directions, 
with my two Indians, who were well acquainted with bush 
travelling ; but after seven hours journey, we were obliged to 
return, having lost our way, owing to our being misled by 
the numerous marks made by the pine-wood cutters ; we 
therefore returned to the Scotchman, who hearing of our bad 
success, kindly offered to be our guide on the morrow. We 
spread a few cocoa-nut leaves outside his little hut, and after a 
meal on wild parsley and cocoa-nuts, hoping for better fortune 
the next day, myself and my two faithful companions slept as 
soundly as many who were reposing on beds of the softest 
down. 

We rose with the sun, and set out with good hearts, hoping 
to obtain a hearty meal from the companions of the Scotch- 
man, whom we expected to fall in with on the other side of the 
island. After travelling for some hours through underwood 
and tall trees, or cutting our way through thickets, at times 
climbing steep mountains, or descending them slowly and 
cautiously, for they were rough and steep, we arrived at the 
top of one of the highest, to which the guide pointed my 
attention, saying, it mas a silver mine, which had formerly been 
worked by an Englishman of the name of Sheen, and who, 
after great expense and trouble, began to anticipate a return 
for his outlay ; unfortunately for him, however, the Spaniards 
hearing of it, came to the island, drove him off, and filled up 
the mine ; none of them having spirit enough to work it, for 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 43 

fear of retaliation from the English. Mac Millan (our Scotch 
friend) assured me, that the ore was found to be extremely- 
good. The place certainly appears to warrant the idea of its 
being a mine of some sort ; it being completely barren to its 
base, whilst all around can be seen cahoon ridges, pine ridges, 
noble and stately Santa Maria trees, fit for masts of large size ; 
lancewood and cedar, and a variety of other woods well 
adapted for ship-building ; fruit trees of many sorts, such as 
the marmee, cachew, plum and allicavo pears in profusion. 
Although the Spaniards, jealous of the English having claimed 
the island, continually fell such trees as they require, and 
they do not fail to lay the axe to every fruit tree they meet with, 
to prevent the English from reaping the benefit. It is, indeed, 
a disgraceful thing that cocoa-nut trees should be cut down 
merely for the sake of their nuts, thus destroying, in a few 
minutes, what it has taken years to produce, and yet it is 
often done by Caribs, from Truxillo ; and on a late visit by a 
French man-of-war, the crew cut down upwards of two hun- 
dred trees, in one of the most beautiful parts of the island. 

Shortly after passing the barren mountain, we heard the 
welcome. cry, " Searpe barrossa!" (There's the sea !) and on 
arriving on the sea-beach, had the mortification to find the boat 
had sailed, and by the fresh tracks of men and dogs on the 
sand, not above two or three hours. Tired and footsore, we 
in vain looked for water to appease our thirst ; this was felt 
bitterly, as we could not even obtain a cocoa-nut to refresh our 
parched throats, there being but few trees near us, and all the 
nuts containing water having already been taken. After a few 
minutes rest, Mac Millan observed, it was better to start at 
once, as probably the boat had gone round the island to his 
kay ; so retracing our footsteps for a short distance we struck 
into a new pass, and after three hours travelling through 
numerous thickets and the foul drawback grass, which lacerated 
us severely, we were astounded to hear that our guide had lost 
his way ; yet the stalwart Scotchman kept stalking on with one 
arm in a sling, and his feet dripping with blood, cutting away 






44 RESIDENCE ON THE 

with his macheet in the direction he thought would lead us to 
the lagoon, in which was our dorey, but all to no purpose. Our 
spirits were, however, kept up by constantly meeting with 
gulleys of water, at which we stopped and drunk greedily, 
first bathing our temples and wrists. At any other time, when 
not suffering from intense pain, toil-worn, and feverish, I 
should have been enchanted with the many beautiful scenes. 
Numerous tall and commanding trees, full of orchidaceous 
plants, bearing lovely and splendid flowers of hues the most 
varied and singular, and many other fine specimens of a 
smaller kind were continually seen. Day advanced, and we 
were still wandering without any prospect of finding our way, 
so completely bewildered was our poor guide. At length we 
reached a matted mangrove thicket, and after cutting a pass 
with our macheets for upwards of a mile, sometimes crawling 
on our hands and knees on the dank and foetid swamp ; at 
other times over the huge roots of the mangrove, which im- 
peded our progress by their vast size, and their being twisted 
together in so many fantastical shapes ; and again climbing 
over the top of some thick bush, which supported our weight 
by the interlacing of its branches, we discovered we were 
going wrong, and were obliged to retrace our weary steps, 
almost dropping with exhaustion. 

We again struck out as near as we could guess in a north 
east direction, until we came to a high and solitary pine tree, 
which one of the Mosquito men climbed, and sang out, 
" Casak wop, arwaller barrossa," (Go straight ahead, there's 
the Lagoon ;) but even this cheering news had not much effect 
on us, we seemed spell-bound, so completely were we ex- 
hausted by our exertions, and there appeared every probability 
of our ^passing the night in the impurity of the unwholesome 
mangrove bush. 

It being now nearly sunset, everything depended upon our 
vigorous exertions ; so following the directions pointed out, we 
commenced cutting a pass, for we could not proceed a step 
without first clearing the bush, being surrounded with thickets, 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 45 

or tall tiger grass, six, seven, and eight feet in height. Just 
j as the sun sunk below the horizon, we contrived to reach the 
lagoon, about a mile from the place where we had left the 
dorey ; night fast approaching, and being quite exhausted, we 
I found it utterly impossible to cut our way to it. After much 
hesitation, we agreed to go through the lagoon, and wade to 
I our dorey, rather choosing to run the risk of alligators and 
sharks, of which there were plenty, than to remain in the 
filthy swamp all the night, tormented with myriads of flies. 
On jumping into the lagoon, the water just reached up to my 
chin, and in my wearied condition I could not have got on 
without the aid of the tallest Mosquitian. Skirting the ex- 
tremity of the bush which extended some feet over the lagoon, 
we waded on, our guide first, and the Mosquito men close to 
me, each with a macheet to defend himself in case of danger, 
till we reached our dorey ; this was a happy moment indeed ; 
we speedily got to Mac Millan's kay, but found no boat. 
Wearied and distressed with hunger, and the poor guide having 
nothing to give us but Indian corn and cocoa-nuts, we en- 
deavoured to reach our companions on Half-Moon Kay. The 
wind and sea, however, being against us, and our strength 
totally gone, we were obliged to abandon the attempt after 
several unavailing offbrts, and return to Mac Millan's for the 
night. 

We slept on a couch of leaves, with logs of wood for our 
pillows, and the broad canopy of heaven for our covering ; to- 
wards morning I awoke cold and wretched, the east wind 
blowing keenly. Again I fell asleep, and on awaking, I found 
myself warm and comfortable, for the two faithful Mosquitians 
had taken off their own tournous in the night, seeing me shiver, 
and had carefully placed them over me, which I have n<£adoubt 
saved me from a serious fit of illness ; such an act o£ genuine 
|kindness speaks for itself. On fully awaking, I observed them 
both lying at my feet, sleeping soundly and peacefully, 
" William, Ben, get up;" no sooner were the words out of my 
mouth, than they both sprung to their feet, William saying, 






46 RESIDENCE ON THE 

" Master, you no sick, please God." " No, William, thank 
God, I am quite well ; let us be off, and get some breakfast, 
for I am nearly starved." " Me same, master," replied he, 
" hungry too much." 

Bidding adieu to our poor guide, whose wounded arm was 
paining him excessively, and promising to send him some pork 
and other trifles in the afternoon, we departed ; and on arriving 
at Half-Moon Kay, soon forgot our late mishaps in the kind- 
ness shewn by all in attending to our wants, and the sympathy 
they exhibited at our mischances ; at the same time we did not 
forget our promise, the little dorey being soon sent off with a 
small supply to our friendly guide. 

Bonacca, called by the Spaniards Guanaja, is about nine 
miles in length, and five or six miles in breadth in the broadest 
part; it is covered with high hills, producing much valuable tim- 
ber, and in the rich valleys and fertile savannas are numerous 
fruit trees of various kinds. Along the water's edge, in many 
parts of the island are numbers of cocoa-nut trees, but few 
being in the interior, and they have no doubt been planted by 
the hands of man. One spot in particular, in the middle of 
the island, is called the cocoa-nut garden, and it is evident 
was formerly attended to with great care, for besides the graceful 
cocoa-nut trees, which in this particular place have grown 
to a wonderful height, there are many other fruit trees ; and 
from the variety of flowers, and other evidences of taste, it 
was without doubt the favourite haunt of one who has long 
been gathered to his fathers. 

Bonacca viewed from any part has a pleasing and interesting 
appearance, and though small, might be made of some im- 
portance, if the English were to establish themselves upon it. 
The woods abound with wild hogs of a very large size, and 
thousands of Indian rabbits ; the trees are full of pigeons and 
parrots ; and the lagoons and harbours are celebrated for an 
immense variety of fish, like most other lagoons in this part of 
the world ; amongst the best species, are hawk's bill and green 
turtle, grouper, king-fish, baraeouta, snapper, yellow and red 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 47 

mouth grunts, rock-fish, parrot-fish, trunk-fish, old wife, drum- 
mer, butter-fish, &c. On a calm day quantities of fish may be 
easily caught with hook and line, by going towards the edges 
of the coral reefs in a dorey, casting out the anchor, and letting 
the plummet just touch the bottom, taking care to avoid the 
dark patches of coral, which may be plainly seen, though 
fathoms deep, the water being so transparent and varied in 
colour. This is a most agreeable occupation, particularly here, 
as the views all around are so exceedingly beautiful ; the 
numerous kays, studded with the cocoa-nut tree, being a 
pleasing feature in the scene. Pursuing this sport, and look- 
ing over the sides of the dorey, we see with astonishment, 
numbers of the finny tribe swimming to and fro, in and out of 
holes in the coral reef, now darting with rapidity at our bait, 
or cautiously hovering about only to be taken at last. The 
splendid sea-fans growing at the bottom, expand themselves, 
and almost invite the beholder to grasp them, though far out 
of his reach, so seducing are they in appearance, and so de- 
ceiving is the depth of the water. In other places, large 
clusters of sponge can be seen, or the handsome sea-eggs 
inviting but to betray ; altogether the scene is both novel and 
interesting in the extreme. Under the rock stones, on the 
reefs, round the kays, are plenty of large craw-fish, — conks, 
and wilks are found in all parts, and a species of guana, called 
illishle, is to be found in abundance on every kay. 

From the north east part of the island to the south west, 
there is a constant succession of kays with reefs outside. 
There is a small channel at Half-Moon Kay; a deep but 
narrow one, round the south west kay, and others. From the 
prevalence of reefs, it would not be prudent for captains of 
vessels to be without a chart of the island ; it has, I believe, 
been surveyed by H. M. schooner, Lark, and the chart is no 
doubt published. 

The climate is acknowledged to be exceedingly good, and 
during the ravages of the cholera a few years ago, when the 
inhabitants of Truxillo suffered dreadfully, and the com- 



48 RESIDENCE ON THE 

mandant of that place sent many to Bonacca for the recovery 
of their health ; they erected dwellings on Half-Moon Kay, and 
only three died. It is a singular fact, that the cholera morbus 
which was so fatal, was perfectly innocuous on the Mosquito 
Shore. On one side of that kingdom, at Chagres, St. Juan, 
and other places, it raged terribly ; in the interior, beyond the 
limits of the Mosquito kingdom, it was equally bad ; and at 
Truxillo it was fearful in the extreme. It extended as far as 
Lymas, where it remained stationary ; and the Shore escaped 
the awful visitation. 

When Black River was settled by the English, before the 
evacuation, which took place in 1778, by order of the British 
government, in consequence of an agreement with Spain, those 
who were seized with intermittent fever, were invariably des- 
patched to Bonacca, and they generally returned improved in 
health and strength; it is therefore surprising, considering 
its salubrity, the richness of its soil, its woods and fisheries, and 
its adaptation to so many useful purposes, that it has never 
been settled by the English. By many traces, it is clear that 
it was formerly populated by Indians. In one part of the 
island, near Savanna Bight Kay, there is a very rich and 
fine savanna, with several fruit trees on it ; and what is more 
singular, near this place a stone wall has been discovered, 
evidently by its shape and appearance, the work of uncivilized 
man. This wall runs along for some distance a few feet high, 
and here and there are fissures, or rude niches, made for the 
admission of peculiarly cut three-legged stone chairs, which, 
I suppose, must have been seats for their idols. Several places 
have been discovered cut out of the solid rock, representing 
chairs ; and numerous articles of roughly burnt clay, in various 
fantastical devices, for holding liquids, have been found, as also 
broken English crockery and iron; and I have seen several 
curious things, in the possession of various people, which have 
been dug up, and are doubtless Indian manufacture. I under- 
stand the adjacent island, Roatan, exhibit yet more proofs of 
having been inhabited by an uncivilized race. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 49 

In the months of April and May, thousands of birds, called 
boobies and noddies, generally lay their eggs on the south west 
part of Half-Moon Kay, thus affording a most delicious pro- 
vision for nearly two months. 

The number of cocoa-nut trees is really incredible, so much 
so, that great advantage might be derived from making oil, 
which might be effected at a small expense, especially as living, 
after the first twelve months, would cost little or nothing but 
labour, allowing that time for the establishment of plantations 
on the main island for any sort of bread kind, as the soil is so 
well adapted for such a purpose. Plantains, which may be 
considered as the standard, thrive wonderfully ; this, with 
keeping some hogs and fowls on a kay, and feeding them on 
the refuse of the cocoa-nut, &c. would, in a short period, shew 
the advantages to be reaped. A few good Spanish dogs for 
hunting the wild hog, two or three turtle nets, harpoons, hooks 
and lines, and fish-pots, are indispensable. On the island may 
also be grown coffee, cotton, tobacco, cacao, &c. During the 
greater part of the year plenty of fish and wild hogs can be 
caught, but when bad weather sets in, which is sometimes the 
case, little good can be done. 

With respect to making oil, it takes about fourteen common 
sized nuts to make a quart, by the method in vogue at Roatan, 
&c. ; but, by the introduction of the hydraulic press, I should 
say, a quart might be expressed from nine or ten, and with a 
great saving of labour. 

The many uses to which the cocoa-nut tree and its fruit can 
be applied are pretty well known ; suffice it to say, it may be 
considered as one of the most valuable productions which a 
bountiful Providence has lavished on tropical climates. At the 
present time the island abounds with wild hogs, they not 
having been hunted much lately. Caribs occasionally resort to 
Bonacca for the purpose of hunting these animals, but they 
have not been so frequently as in former years, thus the hogs 
have much increased. The only things that can be said to 
militate against the island and its kays are, firstly, the myriads 



50 RESIDENCE ON THE 

of bottle and horse-flies on the former, and mosquitos and 
sand-flies on the latter, which appear to deter people from 
settling ; although it is evident, that when a place is covered 
with vegetation, these annoying insects must exist, and that 
as the land becomes cleared, the flies will gradually diminish. 
It is strange that there are three kays equally covered with 
trees and bush as the others, on which there are no mosquitos, 
and only a few sand-flies during calm weather; these kays 
are known as Sheen's, Savanna Bight, and Half- Moon. 
Another annoyance is the painful feeling which the eyes 
experience from the glare of the sun upon the hot and 
sparkling white sand. From March to June the kays are sub- 
ject to the pest of whole armies of soldier- snails, creeping and 
crawling over every thing the moment the sun sets, and with 
such an indescribable noise as to surpass belief; the dead 
branches on the ground creak and break under the legion, as 
they advance, consuming all in their progress. They were a 
great nuisance to us, as we were obliged to hang up our ham- 
mocks pretty high. 

There are a few large snakes in the island, but which are 
not poisonous ; in truth, there are no dangerous snakes or 
"venomous reptiles, except on some of the kays, on which may 
be found a species of galley-wasp, something like a lizard, 
which may always be known by its brown back, and its having 
no stripes; this creature's bite is very bad, but fortunately they 
are few in number. On the whole, Bonacca may be considered 
a fine island, and one on which any man could soon obtain the 
necessaries of life, and with energy, activity, and a strict deter- 
mination to sobriety, even the luxuries, without fear of a 
bastile in his old age. 

A few days after our wreck, a small schooner, the Christo- 
pher Scott, Boaden, master, anchored off Half-Moon Kay, 
having been piloted in by Mac Millan. After an interview 
with the captain, I offered him forty dollars to land us and our 
goods at Black River ; he promised to give me an answer in an 
hour ; in much less time we were astonished to see the sails 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 51 

set, the anchor up, and the schooner sailing away ; we fired 
guns, hoisted a flag, to no purpose — he disregarded our signals, 
and kept on his course. On this fresh misfortune, Mac Millan 
offered to lend me his only dorey, so that she might be sent to 
Truxillo for assistance ; being small and leaky, she was unfit 
to contend with such a heavy sea as there generally is between 
Truxillo and Bonacca, but having no other resource, Mr. Wil- 
liam Upton, the English sailor, and two Mosquito men set sail, 
and in two days returned in a large Carib creer (sailing boat), 
belonging to, and commanded by Captain Jack, which Mr. 
Upton had been fortunately able to engage for forty dollars, the 
poor Scotchman's dorey being inside, and for the use of which 
he refused compensation, saying, he delighted to serve a 
countryman; the only articles I could induce him to take, 
were two pieces of pork and a little tobacco. After loading 
the creer with as many goods as she could possibly stow, we 
set sail, the captain of the unfortunate Amity staying behind 
to get her off the reef, with assistance he had sent for from 
Truxillo. Being favoured with a good wind, we in about 
sixteen hours reached the main land, cast anchor off Sereboyer, 
and breakfasted with the Carib captain, John Bull, to our 
great satisfaction. 

The Caribs behaved hospitably, bringing in cassada bread, 
syrup, tea-grass, and pork, and at night gave me the largest 
and finest hammock, and covered me with beautifully clean 
sheets ; Captain Bull assuring me, with gravity all the time, 
that the house was mine and all within it, and that I might 
turn his wife out of doors if I liked. " I turn your wife out 
of doors? Are you serious?" " Si, Seilor, para servir a. usted," 
replied he, with imperturbable gravity. " Muchas gracias, 
Capitan Bull," I answered, finding it to be merely a Spanish 
compliment. 



e a 



52 RESIDENCE ON THE 



CHAPTER V. 

Departure from Sereboyer — Black River Bar— Columbus— Black River 
— Its Settlement by the English and Spanish — Grave Stone and Inscrip- 
tion — The Natives' account of Mac Gregor's Expedition — Appearance 
of Black River from the Sea — Soil— Fort Wellington— Temperature — 
Northers— Sea Breeze— Black River Bar— Lagoon— Fish— Fruit Trees 
— Alligators — Method of capturing by the Towckas Indians — Their 
timidity on Land — Capturing an Alligator — Rains — Seasons— Insects 
— Intermittent Fevers — Medicines requisite— Wreck of the Rose- 
Death of some Passengers— Causes. 

Abotjt twelve P. m. the conch shell sounded, signifying the 
land wind had set in. On reaching the beach I found the surf 
rolling in with great violence ; a dorey was launched, and we 
got as far as the third breaker, when she filled and went over ; 
again we attempted, and with the same fate, but in deeper 
water, losing a paddle and two pigs, one of which was seen 
to be taken by a shark. On regaining the shore, I positively 
refused again to contend with the fretful element, without the 
two Mosquito men who were on board the creer, or Captain 
Bull, who at this moment came up. Once more we failed, 
through the cowardice of the Carib who was steering, and who, 
on the approach of a heavy breaker, jumped overboard and 
swam ashore ; the dorey broached to, filled, and went over. 
In the next attempt, under the skilful steering of Captain Bull, 
we reached our craft — the anchor was quickly up, and away 
we sailed, the fine land wind sending us merrily over the 
curling waters. When we came near the bar of Black 
River, Captain Jack sung out to the man who had acted 
so dastardly, and who was steering, " Don't look behind 






MOSQUITO SHORE. 53 

you;" well indeed might he say so, for the huge and im- 
petuous waves which followed our swiftly sailing creer, seemed 
uplifted for our destruction ; one broke on our stern quarter, 
nearly swamping us. "Bale! bale!" was the cry, and in a 
minute or two we were over the bar, and shortly had the plea- 
sure of greeting all at the settlement of Fort Wellington, which 
is situated on the left bank of the lagoon, about two miles to 
the westward of Black River ; this lagoon is about 300 yards 
wide. 

It has been well ascertained, that Columbus, on his fourth 
voyage from Spain, discovered the territory known as the 
Mosquito Shore, the isthmus of Darien, and coasts adjacent. 
Cape Gracias a Dios was the first point he made ; and there is 
a rather pleasing anecdote told respecting it, and although it is 
pretty well known, anything regarding that eminent man 
cannot be too often repeated, to prompt the vigorous to fresh 
exertions, and to encourage the weak : — Columbus had been 
many weeks without making land, his crew became dissatisfied, 
owing to the shortness of fresh water and provisions, and at 
length began openly to murmur. Columbus appeased them by 
calmly saying, " If we do not make land in three days, I con- 
sent to give myself up to your resentment; do with me then 
what you please." His men agreed to the proposition, and a 
few hours before the period elapsed, the cheerful cry was raised, 
" Land, O!" Columbus raising his hands and eyes to heaven, 
emphatically said, " Gracias a Dios," (Thanks to God); and the 
Cape has ever since been called by that name. 

Black River, or as the Spaniards term it, La Crieva, is 
about 170 miles from Cape Gracias a Dios, between 70 and 80 
miles from Truxillo, 60 from Bonacca, 80 from Roatan, and 
20 leagues to the east of Cape Honduras, on the Spanish main; 
and, with a favourable breeze, about three or four days sail 
from Balize, first making the west end of Roatan, and taking 
your departure thence at night, so as to fall in with Glover's 
reef, &c. in the morning. It was formerly well settled by 
the English, who had their toAvn on the same bank that is 



54 RESIDENCE ON THE 

now located. It was at that time called Mosquito Bank, and 
the whole of it was cleared and under cultivation, with the 
exception of some swampy bush at Benson's Creek. 

The town began to rise rapidly, most of the inhabitants 
having their plantations made some distance up Black River, 
on its borders, the soil being well fitted for such purposes. 
All was going on prosperously ; 6ugar works commenced ; 
when the people were astounded to hear they were to leave 
their homes, and wander forth to distant countries ; the British 
Government having agreed with Old Spain, that they should 
be removed. Since my residence on the coast, and during my 
various peregrinations, I have conversed with several who were 
born at Black River, and who remember with what sorrow and 
regret then parents were obliged to leave their houses and 
plantations. 

On the English evacuating the place, the Spaniards took 
possession, built a fort, a church, and many houses, and all was 
seemingly going on well ; but the antipathy which had been so 
long existing amongst the Mosquito people to the Spaniards, 
was much increased by daily intercourse, and by the cruelties 
committed by the latter, till at length the smothered vengeance 
of the natives broke out ; they assembled under the command 
of General Tempest, the father of the present Lowry Robin- 
son, and marched against the ill fated town. In the dead of 
night they silently paddled up a creek from Black River lagoon, 
and came into Black River some miles up, (the creek now 
being stopped up,) to deceive the soldiers stationed on a bluff 
on the eastern side of the bar ; then quietly coming down the 
river, they turned up Benson Creek, and landed at the back of 
the settlement, stormed the fort and town, and slaughtered 
many of the inhabitants, so that a total dispersion ensued ; 
and the Spaniards from that period have never had a footing in 
the country. 

Since then the bush has again overgrown the bank, and as 
We slowly cleared away the ground, we discovered many relicts 
of the dead, and of times gone by; ruins of an old Spanish 









MOSQUITO SHORE. 55 

church, with huge roots of trees growing through the brick- 
work, and numerous traces of houses, pits, &c. Whilst 
rambling one day in the woods, we struck out of the track 
and came upon a large flat surface, and on a close examination 
we found it to be a stone, with the following inscription : — 

IN MEMORY OF 

GEORGE HEWM, Esquire, 

FORMERLY OF NORTH LEITH, 

MANY YEARS AN INHABITANT OF THIS PARISH, 

WHO BREATHED HIS LAST ON THE 20TH APRIL, 1777, 

AGED 54 YEARS, 

DESERVEDLY REGRETTED. 



Time was I stood as thou dost stand, 
And viewed the dead as thou dost me ; 
'Ere long thoul't lay as low as I, 
And others stand and gaze at thee. 

These lines made a deep impression on our minds, occurring 
as they- did in the depths of the silent and deserted wood, far 
from the busy haunts of man. The stone was raised almost 
breast high at one end, being forced up by the roots of a large 
tree, whose tendrils hung over it, as if weeping for the de- 
parted spirit. Saddened at the sight, we returned homewards, 
thinldng no more of currassows and qualms. 

The unhappy termination of the unfortunate expedition, sent 
out by Mac Gregor, is pretty well known. Poor fellows ! 
we are sometimes put in mind of that sad affair by the Mosquito 
people, who remember the circumstance well. According to 
their statement, two large ships anchored about two miles to 
the N. W. of Black River Bar ; in a short time several boats 
were sent on shore full of people, who were landed on the 
beach, with but few goods and little provision. By this time 
many of the natives arrived in the lagoon in pitpans, and as 
the people and goods were landed from the vessels, they were 



5(5 RESIDENCE ON THE 

transhipped to the pitpans, and paddled across the lagoon to 
the bank, on which the present settlement is founded. No 
sooner were all put on the beach, then away sailed the ships, 
leaving the misguided people to their fate. By the time they 
all gained the bank it was late at night, and they were obliged 
to remain till the morning, exposed to the heavy dews and 
annoying insects. Without shelter, without food, without pro- 
per means in a strange land, unused to the climate, paralysed 
with astonishment, and desolate, their sufferings were extreme. 
Several deaths occurred, and two or three were accidently 
drowned in the lagoon. They all gave themselves up to de- 
spair, on rinding their hopes blighted, and their prospects 
destroyed. This sad news however reached Balize, and a 
schooner was sent for them, and they were soon scattered far 
and near. 

I believe it was in 1820, that the king of the Mosquito 
territory granted a large tract of land to Mac Gregor, which 
was known by the name of Poyais ; but in consequence of his 
claiming to be cacique, against an express stipulation, he 
forfeited all right and title to a large expanse of country, now 
termed the Province Victoria ; part of which has been pur- 
chased, and regranted by Robert Charles Frederic, the present 
king, to the Company to which I was engaged. The view from 
seaward on the approach to Black River is very fine, for though 
the general face of the country appears low, the Sugar-Loaf 
and other mountains a few miles in the interior, covered to 
their summits with verdure of the richest and most varied 
hue, is beautiful in the extreme— one mass of bush and trees ; 
and so it is on a closer examination throughout the whole of 
the kingdom, except where patches of savanna and pine ridges 
intervene. Along the sea-beach to the westward of Black 
River Bar there are some small savannas, on which are nume- 
rous fruit trees, such as the crabou, sea-side grape, and white, 
red, and black cocoa plums. The beach varies in width from 
50 to 200 feet, the bush running along in one continuous line.- 
On penetrating through the bush about a quarter of a mile, 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 57 

you arrive at a lagoon, which runs in the same direction as the 
line of coast for some miles, and on the opposite side of which 
stands the present settlement. 

The land, from the commencement of the bush on the sea- 
beach to the lagoon, is considered of the finest quality for 
growing provisions ; and it is here that a large plantation has 
been formed to raise bread kind for the settlers. On the 
eastern side of Black River, along the coast, the soil is equally 
prolific, and a number of the natives have built their huts, and 
made small plantations in various places, nearly as far as 
Plantain River. 

The settlement at Fort Wellington is surrounded with bush 
and tall trees, and, in places, with almost impenetrable thickets; 
the bank on both sides the lagoon is encumbered with mangrove 
trees. The land at the back of the settlement is swampy in 
some parts, and during the rainy seasons much water accumu- 
lates. The climate is pretty equable, varying only throughout 
the year from 62° to 86° Fah., so that nothing need be appre- 
hended from excessive heats, especially as during the greater 
part of the year it is tempered by the grateful sea breeze, and 
sometimes by the invigorating dry north wind. 

The following is an account of the thermometer, &c. taken 
at Fort Wellington at noon, on each day throughout the year : 

Months. Average Temperature. Prevailing Winds. Prevailing Weather. 

January . 66° occasionally 62° Northers Wet, sometimes however 

. J ' • fine by being a dry 

north. 

February 70° occasionally 66° Northers Ditto ditto. 

March ... 70° to 74° Unsettled — Sea breezes Dry. 

& north-easters prevail 

April 74° to 76° North-easters and sea Dry. 

breezes • 

May .... 78° Strong sea breezes . . Dry. 

June .... 78° to 82° „ Ditto Dry tiU about 17th. 

July .... 82° Ditto Wet. 

August . . 84° to 86° Light variable airs or Dry. 

calms 

September 84° to 86° Ditto ditto Dry. 



58 RESIDENCE ON THE 

Months. Average Temperature. Prevailing Winds. Prevailing Weather. 

October. . 78° . . . Sea breezes, sometimes a Partially dry or wet ac- 

light north about the cording to the wind. 
middle of the month, at 
other times a wet north 

November 72° at times less. . Northers Wet, sometimes fine by 

being a dry north. 

December 66° occasionally Northers Wet. 

as low as 62° 

During the period of the norths, the coast is exceedingly 
dangerous for vessels, as the wind blows with inconceivable 
fury ; the only chance for escape would be to slip and run for 
Cape Gracias a Dios. The approach of a norther may in 
general be known by certain signs ; its continuance for a 
few hours would inevitably lead to the destruction of any ship 
near the coast. The sea generally at this period has a wonder- 
ful refluxion, or drawback ; it is truly magnificent to view the 
wild surf raging and rolling till its spite is vented on the stolid 
beach. During the months of August and September, 

" The skies are clear, 
And the sea charmed into a calm so still 
That not a wrinkle ruffles her smooth face." 

Dryden. 

When the wild northers terminate, and the sea breeze again 
blows, the effect on the human frame, and indeed on every 
thing around, is plainly perceptible. All nature partakes of its 
influence, and few can tell the enjoyment experienced by a 
man who has been crouching round a fire in a cold wet north, 
as he eagerly rushes out to enjoy the health giving breeze. 

One day, after a north wind, I determined to ride along the 
beach to Plantain River ; before I reached half way, the fever 
caught me, and dismounting, I crawled in great pain for a con- 
siderable distance, till I came to a Mosquito hut, on entering 
which I observed several men and women ; addressing one, I 
said, " Ouplee, ouree polly I doukser," (Friend, I have the 
fever,) and threw myself down on the sand. I fell into a quiet 
delirium, which the affectionate creatures observing, they lifted 
me up, placed then tournous under me, covered me over, and 
tended me with the greatest care — one old woman singing, 



MOSQUITO* SHORE. 59 

" how sorry she was for poor white man — no wife — no mother 
— no father," &c. I remained for a day and a half veiy ill, 
and then felt myself a little easier. They gave me some hot 
sugar-cane liquor, which threw me into a violent perspiration, 
and in a few hours I was well enough to proceed home ; the 
kind natives conveying me in their pitpan, leaving a boy to 
catch the horse, and bring it me next day. 

The bar at Black River is at times dangerous, owing to the 
heavy seas which break on it. In dry weather, and after a 
continuance of the sea breeze, the main channel becomes 
shallowed, sometimes not more than five or six feet deep, it 
being filled up by sand, trunks of trees, &c, brought down 
from the interior by the river, and the current not being then 
sufficiently strong to carry them out to sea ; but in the north 
time, the floods are so strong, and the reflux of the sea so 
great, that every obstacle is cleared away, and the channel 
again becomes from eight to nine feet deep. The lagoon varies 
in depth from one and a half to three fathoms, and this depth 
also continues up the river for some distance. The lagoon 
abounds with fish of great variety, such as tuber, sheephead, 
stone-bass, snook, callipever, mullett, snapper, guard-fish, sun- 
fish, topham, and numerous others, and in the dry seasons 
the natives can always obtain plenty. In the wet seasons, 
owing to the immense quantities of loose soil and vegetable 
matter brought down the river by the floods, the water of the 
lagoon becomes thick, so that the natives cannot see to strike 
the fish, and they will not then take the hook. Black River 
has several species of fish; amongst them are tuber, mountain 
mullet, walper-sikser, billum, &c. Rivers do not in general 
abound with fish in the same variety and numbers as lagoons, 
bays, &c. Great precaution ought to be observed in the use of 
fish, especially when the moon is at or near the full, when they 
must be eaten perfectly fresh. I know by experience how 
soon fish becomes unfit for use. Two or three times the natives 
have come in after hauling the seine at twelve o'clock at night; 
I have had each fish cut open, cleaned, salted, and separately 



60 RESIDENCE ON THE 

hung over a line, and well protected from the moon's rays, and 
yet in the morning they have been perfectly unfit for food, the 
moon having so much greater power here than in England ; 
the same remark applies to pork when killed at the full. I 
have been told that if a mahogany tree is fallen at the full, it 
will split, as if rent asunder by some external force. 

The sea coast, on calm mornings, abounds with fish, such as 
salt water snook, carvalho, grunts, drummers, baracouta, 
Spanish mackerel, topham, June-fish, and others ; and during 
the period of the " wis tarra," (great calm,) in the months of 
August and September, the natives and Caribs catch and strike 
great quantities. 

The woods are full of game, and by the employment of the 
natives as hunters, for they do not often hunt singly, your 
table is in general amply provided, except in very wet months, 
when the natives will not hire, for they do not like hunting in 
the rain. The average pay of a Mosquito hunter is from seven 
to eight dollars per month, with an allowance of fifty plantains 
as bread kind per week, or seven quarts of flour, and four 
pounds of salt pork, or ten or twelve pounds of fresh meat, 
although they much prefer the fat salt pork. 

On Fort Wellington Bank there are some cocoa-nut trees in 
bearing state, and a variety of fruit trees formerly planted and 
tended with care, but now growing wildly and luxuriantly — 
the grateful papahs, cachews, Spanish plum, limes, crabous, 
and supers; and in the depths of the wood, hog-plums, 
monkey and bob-apples, and crabous abound, affording sub- 
sistence to the numerous creatures which inhabit it. The 
beautiful guinea-grass also thrives well, giving a pleasing 
appearance to the scene, and affording a rich subsistence to the 
horned cattle, &c. At the mouth of the river, and in fact in 
all the rivers and lagoons, numbers of alligators may be 
observed on the banks like logs of wood, at times impregnating 
the air with a musky scent, which proceeds from the glands 
under the legs, or floating along the surface of the water, 
watching for their prey. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 61 

The female alligator lays many eggs in the sand, and leaves 
them to be quickened into life by the rays of the sun — all 
natural ties are extinct, for the moment the young ones are 
enabled to crawl into the river, the old ones devour them. 
Many of the natives eat the flesh of the alligator, and pro- 
nounce it good ; the gall is very poisonous and must be 
extracted with care. The eggs are considered nutritious, 
though the musky flavour is abominable. A Towckas Indian, 
when he sees an alligator near the banks of the river, will 
boldly swim under water, carrying a native -manufactured rope 
with a noose in it, until he reaches the creature ; he will then 
dexterously affix the noose to its leg, his companions at the 
same moment, having hold of the other end of the rope, pull it 
vigorously, and the alligator is speedily drawn over and 
despatched. Many stories are told of their rapacity and cun- 
ning. I have been several times within a few yards of them, 
and found them timid, for on shouting out, they would rise 
from their recumbent position, and awkwardly flounder into 
the water. 

Dampier says, that when in the Bay of Campeachy, as he 
passed through a swamp, he stumbled over an alligator. He 
called loudly for assistance, but his companions ran away. On 
recovering himself, he fell over another, and again over a 
third, but he was not molested. 

One afternoon we fixed the intestines of a warrie to a large 
shark hook, to which we attached a strong rope, and secured 
it to the stump of a tree close to the water's edge. In 
the middle of the night hearing a terrible floundering, we 
hastened to the bank, when we found, a large alligator fairly 
hooked. We contrived to draw him near the shore, but as his 
efforts to escape were still very powerful, we fired several balls 
at him, and despatched him. Next morning the head was dis- 
severed, and held up in terrorem to others congregating on 
the point. 

The rains here are by no means like those we experience in 
England. Here the rains, or rather floods of water, descend 



62 RESIDENCE ON THE 

with such violence as to overflow the low lands in a short space 
of time, causing the rivers to rise many feet in a few hours. 
The rains make the only distinction of seasons. The spring 
rain as it is called, generally commences about the middle of 
June, and lasts six weeks ; the autumnal rain, which is by far 
the heaviest, takes place about the latter end of October, and 
continues till the beginning of March, unless a diy north hap- 
pens to blow, which is exceedingly pleasant and healthful. 
The trees are green the whole year round ; they have no cold 
or frost to nip their tender buds and shoots. I have observed 
some species, such as the wild fig-tree, which drop their 
leaves all at once, and in four or five days they are completely 
clothed again. 

The most annoying thing to a new comer are the insects, 
which are a source of great torment, for wherever there is 
bush, there will of course be flies of some sort. On first 
arriving at Fort Wellington, I suffered mruch from the attacks 
of the mosquitos, but after a residence of some months, and 
as the land became cleared, they were much less in number, 
and I became less impatient of then abominable humming and 
sharp bites. On calm days, or in a light north, we are visited 
by sand flies, which in my opinion are a far greater pest than 
anything else ; in general however, these little insects are only- 
found in or near the sea beach. In some parts of the country 
a species of flea infests the earth ; and as in some places they 
are in great quantities, breeding in the soil, to fall in with them 
is purgatory. A kind of large red ant, called wee-wee powney, 
is often met with by the hunter. They are always seen carry- 
ing a large leaf over their heads as if to shade themselves from 
the sun. The order and regularity they observe in their 
movements are wonderful. Far as the eye can reach they are 
discovered, marching straight along with their tiny parasols 
waving in the breeze. They are in immense numbers, and 
their instinct is most surprising. It behoves the settler to use 
every means to get rid of them, by tracing their nests and 
destroying them with gunpowder, as they are very destructive, 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 63 

and will commit great injury to the cassada plantations, 
Another species called marching legion, are large and black, 
they appear in such numbers as to excite the greatest astonish- 
ment; nothing escapes them in their road, every blade of grass 
and creeping thing are consumed as they are fallen in with ; 
indeed their visits may sometimes be considered in the light of 
a blessing than otherwise. I have seen them in the morning, 
and again the next day, marching over the beaten track, and 
there appeared no diminution in then* numbers. 

Notwithstanding that there are venomous reptiles, sand-flies, 
mosquitos, snakes, alligators, &c. the natives travel through 
the woods and through swamps without dread, and the Caribs 
go considerable distances into the bush to attend to their 
plantations ; as to mosquitos there are none in cleared places 
in the day time ; it is only at night they are troublesome, and 
even then, by proper attention to mosquito curtains, their stings 
may be avoided. The alligator recedes from the approach of 
man ; during the whole time I was in the country I had no fear 
of any kind, and after a man has been located a month or so, 
he is divested of all alarm, and will think no more of alligators 
and other bugbears, than he does of the eels in the river 
Thames. I have slept on the sandy bays in Black River, under 
a tarpaulin frequently, and although alligators frequented the 
same bank, I have slept soundly, when I could contrive to get 
under my pavilion, without intrusion from the mosquitos. 
During my stay in this province, I felt as secure as ever I did 
in London, with all its police ; here the mind is not shocked 
by the diabolical deeds often heard of in Great Britain — here 
a man is safe, for the natives respect the English — they are 
mild and peaceable — they want little, for with a little labour 
they obtain plenty — nature is their handmaid, ever ready to 
lavish her fruits. A man with common prudence may surround 
himself with all he can require ; if he is temperate, he will 
live — if he fills himself with alcohol, he will die. The inhabi- 
tants of hot countries, as well as those who but remain there 
for awhile, are rather directed by nature to the use of cooling 



64 



RESIDENCE ON THE 



drinks, and of those aromatic fruits which are there matured by 
the heat of the sun, enjoy the open day and refreshing sea 
breeze, with a light coat and straw hat, put on a twilled red 
frock in the evening, shut out the land wind, do not expose 
themselves to the dews, rise with the sun, wear flannel next 
the skin, use moderate exercise, avoid wet feet until acclima- 
tized; and by an adherence to these rules, a man may hope to 
enjoy the first and greatest blessing — good health. 

Intermittent fevers appear to trouble Europeans, and although 
not dangerous, they are very debilitating. A change of air 
for a short time, with a few grains of sulphate of quinine each 
day, after a course of opening medicine, will generally effect a 
cure. Those who have been free livers, or who have exposed 
themselves too much to the dews, &c, will suffer extremely, 
as the intermittent fever then terminates in dropsy. River 
fevers also prevail, but a change of air will invariably do good. 
Diarrhoea, flatulency, and other common diseases are to be 
met with ; but they have no dangerous maladies that ever I 
have heard of, which in some places carry off people almost 
without warning. 

I subjoin a list of medicines necessary for persons sojourn- 
ing to the Mosquito Shore, and with a proper book of directions, 
and a good work, such as Thomas' Practice of Medicine, little 
need be apprehended. 



* Calomel 
*Epsom Salts 
*Magnesia 

Tincture of Rhubarb 
*Laudanum 

Opium 

Spirits of Camphor 

Spirits of Hartshorn 
♦Opodeldoc 

Huxham's Tincture of Bark 

* Quinine 



Compound Spirits Lavender 
*Senna 

^Ether 
*Rhubarb Powder 
*Jalap 
*Ipecacuhana 

Sweet Spirits of Nitre 
*Compound Extr. Colocynth 

Red Precipitate 
*Essence of Peppermint 
*Dover's Powders 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 



65 



Alum 
*Cream of Tartar 

Flour of Sulphur 

Blue Stone 
*Tartar Emetic 

Aromatic Confection 

Spirits of Ginger 

Sulphuric ^Ether 

Tincture of Gentian 

Muriated Tincture of Iron 

Oil of Turpentine 

Syringes 

Enema 

Camomile Flowers 

Creosote 

Blister Salve 

Cantharides 

Linseed and Rye Meal 
*Powdered Jamaica Ginger 



* Tartaric Acid 

* Carbonate of Soda 
Spermaceti Ointment 

*Basilicon 

Goulard Water 

Savine Ointment 

Sago 

Pearl Barley 

Oatmeal 
*Cold drawn Castor Oil 
♦Blue PUls 
*Worm Medicines 

Medicines for Children 

Medicine Spoon 

Spatula 

Scales and Weights 

Pestle and Mortar 

Strapping 

Acids for trying Gold 



Lint 

Those marked thus * are most commonly in use. 

All medicines subject to decay, should have glass stopper 
bottles. Ointments, oatmeal, &c. to be well secured with 
bladder and leather over the corks. 

There are other medicines that will of course be found useful 
and necessary, and some of the above might even be dispensed 
with ; but during my residence on the Mosquito Shore, those 
here enumerated only came under my notice for general use. 

In most undertakings for colonizing a foreign shore, the first 
settlers have to contend with unforeseen diniculties. It is clear 
that the inexperience inseparable from the exploration of a new 
tract, may be the cause of many misfortunes. Thus it was 
with us; we were the pioneers, and suffered many privations ; 
and although the Company in London may have completed 
their plans with judgment, we had to witness the ravages of 
death at Black River, among those who came out by the Rose, 

r 



66 RESIDENCE ON THE 

in February, 1841 ; yet I believe every precaution had been 
adopted by the Company to ensure the health and comfort of 
the passengers. 

I have before stated, that we sailed from Gravesend in the 
Rose, in 1839, for Cape Gracias a Dios ; this vessel was to 
have gone from thence in ballast to Cuba, there to take in 
copper ore for England, and return from England again to us 
with further supplies, as we had not more than sufficient for 
six months ; and she was to have continued her voyages out 
and home. Unfortunately our superintendent, instead of send- 
ing this vessel home by the way of Cuba, freighted her with 
mahogany for England. The charter party was so framed, 
that no day was fixed for sailing, nor any port assigned as her 
destination ; hence she had to wait for orders at one port, and 
thence be despatched to another ; nor did she ultimately arrive 
at London, until thirteen months after her departure from 
England. Every thing was thus thrown into disorder, the 
Company in London being ignorant of the proceedings of their 
superintendent, in whom full powers were vested, while we were 
in daily expectation of fresh supplies. Our superintendent was 
expected to have had sufficient experience, but to his experience 
we were little indebted, and thus, through mismanagement, 
we were exposed to disease and difficulties. Much of the 
merchandize brought out in the Rose, was, for the most part, 
ill adapted to an uncultivated country, or the wants of its 
inhabitants, and we were thrown into despondency when dis- 
appointed of supplies from England : we found all the useful 
goods gone in payment for labour and the provisions of the 
country, our own provisions having been expended. Ten 
acres of land had been cleared, four acres planted with cassada, 
which turned out the bitter sort ; two large and three smaller 
houses had been erected for the expected emigrants, but 
when the Caribs and natives found we had nothing left to 
exchange for their labour, they refused to work. Our super- 
intendent had obtained some supplies from Truxillo and Balize, 
and others would have come, if they had been ordered by him ; 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 67 

this was neglected ; and thus, instead of Fort Wellington being 
a settlement, and a hostelry for new comers, it was completely 
disorganized, and with barely the necessaries of life. In 
November, 1840, our superintendent received his recall, and 
Mr. William Upton, who had been previously located at the 
Cape, was appointed pro. tern. ; but although enjoined to pre- 
pare houses for the expected visiters, we had not the means of 
doing so. 

" If to do were as easy as to know what to do,'* 

we should have been prepared. 

In February, 1841, the brig Rose appeared off Black River, 
and joyfully was she welcomed ; we saw relief at hand, our 
spirits revived, and, roused into action, we prepared for the re- 
ception of our guests, and promised ourselves much happi- 
ness, but 

" All things that we ordained festival, 
Turn from their office to black funeral." 

The brig was munificently freighted with every necessary of 
life, pork; beef, hams, flour, wines, spirits, ale, porter, tea, 
sugar, rice, &c. &c. She brought out a Mr. W. Houghton, as 
superintendent, and thirty-seven English and Spanish passen- 
gers. She was filled with provisions, goods, sheep, hogs, 
goats, dogs, turkeys, ducks, fowls, &c. ; the condition of the 
vessel was however so bad, that one of the Company's servants 
sent on board from Fort Wellington, was taken ill a few hours 
afterwards, and refused to sleep in the berth prepared for 
him below; and he and another person declared, they could 
smell the effluvia from the brig some time before they got 
to her. 

Disease and death seem to have been attendant on the 
passengers of this fated vessel, and the very elements to have 
joined in the work of destruction, as if the ship and its 
freight were doomed. The vessel was lying some distance 
from the shore, and before the goods and all the passengers 

f2 



68 RESIDENCE ON THE 

were landed, the gathering clouds indicated a storm. The 
threatening north wind commenced in puffs, increasing mo- 
mentarily, until its furious character placed the brig in imminent 
peril; its wrath increased, and she contended in vain — the 
raging waters tossed her to and fro, and she became unman- 
ageable; the destiny of the ship was but too apparent — the 
arm of man was useless— no earthly power could contend with 
the mighty waters; as a cockle-shell she was cast on the shore, a 
plaything for the roaring surge — the waters would recede from 
her, and then again lash, foam, and overwhelm her; again 
receding, and again overwhelming — carrying her further and 
further in shore, until she was finally imbedded in the sand, 
beyond their influence. When the wrath of the storm was 
spent, and the wind hushed, and the waters calmed, the 
natives and Caribs, as well as ourselves, viewed with astonish- 
ment and regret the poor brig, thrown nearly on her beam ends 
within ten yards from the beach; to-day useless lumber — 
yesterday in all her glory ; at the same time we heartily re- 
joiced to find that not a person was injured. The brig had 
the character of great strength in her build, and she well sus- 
tained it, for hardly a plank was started. As it was absolutely 
impossible to float her again, we got out the goods and stores, and 
set her on fire, to obtain the copper and other fastenings. The 
loss of the Rose was only the loss of money, but there she 
lay, while disease was triumphing over those who had escaped 
the destruction to which she was doomed. The cup of bitterness 
was not yet filled : in a few short weeks eight of the passengers 
were laid in their graves. Solomon says, " Boast not thyself of 
to-morrow, for thou knowest not what a day may bring forth." 
Mr. Houghton, a fine young man, died within five weeks, 
his death being occasioned by over anxiety, exertion, and 
exposure to the sun ; with deep anguish did we witness his 
premature end, and read the beautiful funeral service over 
this promising young gentleman. Another followed, — another, 
— and another, until eight had gone to their final rest. The 
others fled, panic stricken, some via Truxillo to England, some 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 69 

to Roatan, &c. The typhus fever, a disorder never known in 
the country, attacked some of those who came by the Rose, 
but none others ; and it is evident that the seeds of that disorder 
were sown in the vessel. Some of the passengerss suffered 
from intermittent fever, brought on, in a great mesaure, by 
their own imprudence. Most of them were poor, not having 
the means of subsistence even for a short period, unused to 
the labour required in such climates, without goods wherewith 
to hire the natives to labour for them, and perfectly unac- 
quainted with all they should know. 

When the vessel arrived off Sereboyer, a Carib town, about 
thirty miles to the westward of Black River, two of the 
passengers determined, in preference, to proceed along the sea- 
beach ; taking off their shoes and stockings, they walked bare 
legged, exposed to the driving sand, the salt water, and the 
rays of the sun : on arriving at another Carib town, horses 
were procured for them, but so painful had their legs become, 
they could not ride, and were then obliged to walk the remain- 
ing distance to Fort Wellington in great suffering. They were 
both seized with typhus fever — in a few days one died; the 
other happily recovered. Amongst the others who died, were 
two aged people, one young woman shortly after child-birth, 
a young girl aged about 15 or 16, from exposure to the sun, 
and over exertion in attending on her friends, one child, and 
two infants. Many of those who came by the Rose, ought not 
to have left their homes, being perfectly unfitted for a foreign 
shore, and expecting they were to enjoy the necessaries of life 
without exertion on their parts. 

I attributed these misfortunes to inexperience and mismanage- 
ment. If the Rose had been sent to Cuba, she might not have 
been sixteen months away ; if so much live stock and additional 
passengers, seven Spaniards, had not been taken on board 
by Mr. Houghton, at the Grand Canaries, the vessel might 
have arrived clean. (Another vessel was also freighted from 
the Grand Canaries, with live stock, &c. for Black River, 
but never arrived.) If sweet cassada had been sown, bitter 



70 RESIDENCE ON THE 

would not have been reaped. If attention had been paid to the 
Company's orders by their superintendent, plantations and 
houses would have been ready in proper time. If our vessel 
had been freighted wholly with suitable goods, much more work 
would have been done ; and if all the Company's servants had 
done their duty, much distress would have been prevented. 

If it be asked, what has all this to do with those who pur- 
chase this book of information respecting the country ? I reply, 
that a record of the failure, and its causes, may be the most 
effectual warning to others ; and it may especially serve to 
shew that it is useless for persons, without discrimination, 
judgment, perseverance, and sufficient means, to leave their 
homes for this country. 

A short time after this occurrence, a young gentleman, Mr. 
B , arrived at Black River, with two servants. He pur- 
chased, in London, some few thousands of acres, and he brought 
with him money and goods. After staying with us at Fort 
Wellington some time, he formed his opinion with judgment, 
made himself acquainted with all things necessary, and then 
took possession of his land, situated a few miles up on the 
eastern side of Black River. Here, in the midst of the bush, 
he commenced clearing, planting, and building, employing the 
Caribs and natives for this purpose. This young gentleman 
who had been brought up to one of the learned professions, 
adopted this life, and he assured me that he found great im- 
provement in his health, that he was perfectly satisfied at the 
change, and should sit down contented. Many a pleasant day 
did I spend with him, and his kindness to me at various times, 
and on my departure from Black River, I shall ever remember 
with gratitude. When I left, he was still progressing in his 
work. This gentleman then from the gay city, places himself 
in the woods on the Mosquito Shore, unused to the mode of 
life, not driven by necessity, but led by choice ; and I have, 
since my arrival in London, heard that he had gone far into the 
interior, to gain a proper knowledge of the country, and for 
other purposes. From this will be inferred, that capital, judg- 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 7l 

ment, and discretion, are required ; and that at present the 
Mosquito Shore is not the place for a poor man to resort to, 
but that any person who does so, may be assured of his personal 
safety. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Inhabitants of the Mosquito Shore — The Sambos — How descended — 
Beardless Countenances — Features — Love of Liquor — The Good Spirit 
—The Evil Spirit— Curious Law— Polygamy— The Small Pox— Other 
Diseases — Absence of Cripples — Native Doctors — Women — Children 
— Girls, when Married — Parturition— Eating Sand— Dexterity of the 
Sambos — Their Houses — Songs — Native Song — Jews' Harp, well 
played by the Natives — Summary Punishment of a Murderer — Singular 
fact relative to Patook— General Mettison— Poyer Indians — Afraid 
of the Sambos — Cruel Orders — Freedom— Description of the Poyers 
— Character— Productions — An old Tale about the Indians — Wild In- 
dians — Description of one — The Seco Indians — The Towckas Indians 
Description — Principal Residence — Remnant — Dexterity — The Seco 
Rivet — Sarsaparilla collected by the Indians. 

The inhabitants of the Mosquito Shore are divided into three 
distinct classes ; the origin of one class, the Sambos, is involved 
in obscurity. The Sambos, or Mosquitians, inhabit the sea 
coast, and the savannas inland, as far west as Black River. 
The aboriginal Indians are divided into many different tribes, 
and reside in the interior. The Caribs also dwell on the sea 
coast, their first town, Cape Town, being a few miles to the 
westward of Black River. Each class is governed by their own 
appointed chiefs, such as generals, admirals, colonels, and cap- 
tains, the king having full power and dominion over the whole. 
The Sambos are supposed to be the descendants of the aborigi- 
nal Indians and negros from the Sambo country, from the cir^ 
cumstance of a slave ship having been wrecked many years 
ago, from which several negros escaped, and, intermarrying 



72 RESIDENCE ON THE 

with the Indians, became very numerous and warlike, and 
have always maintained their liberty and independence ; and it 
is an undoubted fact, that they never submitted to any other 
authority than that of the English, for whom they have always 
entertained great affection. 

The difference between the Sambos and the Indians is very 
striking : the Sambos are of all shades, from the copper colour 
of the Indian, to the dark hue of the negro, their hair being 
more or less woolly, the nearer they approach the latter. Their 
beardless countenances, which they seem greatly to value, are 
remarkable. They are in general well proportioned and active, 
and are more capable of enduring privations than undergoing 
the fatigue of hard labour. Their features are regular and 
pleasing, and their complexions and skin much improved, in 
their ideas, by the constant and liberal use of hone and other 
oils, with which they rub themselves. They ornament their 
faces by laying on large daubs of red or black paint. They 
have various sorts of vegetable dyes, such as coopene, howlaler, 
tomarin, &c. Their fondness for liquor is excessive, and from 
this they suffer great calamities, for having once began to drink 
their mushla, (when the English fire-water, which they prefer, 
cannot be got,) they go on till they fall down in a helpless state 
of intoxication, and lie exposed to the heavy dews or pouring 
rain ; their bodies are wasted by fearful disorders, which event- 
ually carry them off; this is one cause of the gradual decrease 
of the population. The few who abstain from the use of 
spirituous liquors and mushla, reap their reward in a long life 
of health and vigour. 

They do not appear to have any idea of a Supreme Being, 
but many who have at various times been to Balize, know the 
meaning of God, and often say, " Please God, so and so ;" or 
if they wish to be implicitly believed, they will gravely say, 
" God swear." They have belief in an evil spirit, whom they 
term Oulasser, and of whom they are in much fear, and after 
sun-set a Sambo will not venture out alone, lest the Oulasser 
should carry him away. I have repeatedly spoken to them on 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 73 

the subject ; their reply is always the same, " You christian, 
Debil praid — me no christian — Debil must do me bad :" and 
their ideas do not at all alter, even if they have been in the 
employ of the English for years. They have also much dread 
of a water ghost, whom they call Leewire. 

According to a curious law, if a man commits adultery, the 
injured husband instantly demands payment, and shoots a beeve, 
takes a horse, or some such thing, no matter to whom it belongs ; 
and the owner has to obtain the amount he values his property 
at from the adulterer, or from the chief of the district; the latter 
taking care to be compensated for his trouble, in the same 
manner as the king, by taking double or treble the amount 
from the offender. The men are naturally apathetic and indo- 
lent, when not excited by liquor, hunting, or fishing, and as 
they have no motives of morality to hinder them from indulging 
their desires, we need not wonder that chastity is not con- 
sidered a virtue. Polygamy is common amongst them, the 
king setting the example by the number of his wives, and 
appearing to be of the same opinion as Lancelot, " Alas ! 
fifteen wives is nothing !" The young wives are always sub- 
servient to the first one. 

Some years back the small-pox carried off great numbers, 
but latterly they have escaped this visitation. It appears that 
this country was once thickly populated, and that it was to this 
awful malady, and not to internal wars, the reduction of their 
numbers is attributable. The destructiveness of the small- 
pox to Indians, in many parts of the world, is a matter of 
notoriety. The natives appear subject to fevers, not however 
of a dangerous character. Dysentery, diarrhoea, consumption, 
and inflammatory affections of the bowels are very frequent, as 
may be expected, considering the quantities of fruit and vege- 
table substances, and the large portions of the bitter cassada 
and mushla they indulge in. The measles at times break 
out in a village, nearly all the young children being attacked 
within a few days of each other, and it is sometimes fatal. A 
disease of the eyes, called un-kri-bi-kun, is also prevalent; 



74 RESIDENCE ON THE 

it does not produce actual blindness, but the pain is very great, 
and some suffer severely, not being able to endure the light. 
It is not known to what this partial blindness is attributable, 
but the white people escape this visitation. The natives are 
subject to the tooth-ache, from the habitual use of the sugar- 
cane, but their teeth are white without the aid of the chew- 
stick,* which grows in the province ; the natives however are 
ignorant of its possessing any virtues. The children suffer 
badly from worms, their abdomens at times being swollen to 
an enormous size. This must arise from the daily use of ripe 
plantains, bananas, and other things roasted, and made into a 
kind of mushla which they drink, and from the absence or 
insufficient use of salt. The Sambos, when they cannot get 
salt from the English, boil sea-water, and extract the salt, but 
they obtain very little, although they bestow great labour upon 
it. The native doctors have no method whatever of curing any 
positive disease; their ridiculous customs, in most instances, 
destroy all the benefit their roots and herbs might otherwise 
produce. The sookeahs are looked upon with much regard 
and affection, and whatever they direct, is invariably performed 
with the most surprising exactitude. I have known the poor 
ignorant creatures, on the advice of a sookeah, remain on the 
sea-beach exposed to all weathers for two, three, and four days, 
rubbing their bodies with blood, abstaining from many articles 
of necessary food, and all to cure some slight pain. The ab- 
sence of cripples and idiots is very remarkable, Humboldt 
attributes the fact of the inhabitants of warmer climates being 
straighter and better formed than those of colder regions, to the 
influence of light and heat. 

Syphilitic affections now prevail to some extent amongst the 
natives. There is little doubt that as the people become more 
acquainted with the English settlers, their superstitious obser- 
vances and notions will gradually diminish ; and if education 



* The chew-stick is used by the negros in the West Jndia Islands, to 
whiten and preserve their teeth. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 75 

be extended to the rising generations, will in time be forgotten. 
The king and a few of his chiefs have done a good deal to 
destroy the influence of the sookeahs, directing the people, 
in cases of sickness, to apply to Englishmen, who would 
do them good ; and many times they have been to the 
settlement at Fort Wellington, begging for " Englis seker," 
(English physic,) asking what directions they were to follow, 
which they would implicitly obey. Several bad cases have 
occurred, which defied the skill of the sookeahs, but which the 
English have cured without much trouble. 

The Sambo women when young, and before hard labour and 
precarious living alter them, are frequently handsome and well 
proportioned. The children are very interesting, and the 
nearer the child is in blood to the Indians, the handsomer 
and clearer becomes the colour of their skin ; the features, 
however, being more pleasing, the closer the child approaches 
to the Sambo. Ugly children are rarely to be found, and crip- 
ples never; hence it is to be feared that they pursue that 
horrible custom of destroying deformed children at their birth ; 
they are very reserved when talking of such matters, and the 
truth can seldom be obtained. I employed one man who had a 
club-foot, but I never heard by what fortunate accident his life 
was spared. 

The girls are taken for wives at a very tender age, some- 
times betrothed from their birth, in this manner : — the parent 
takes care of the child till she is twelve or thirteen years old, 
the affianced husband making presents of cloth, beads, game, 
fish, and other things as payment, till he claims her ; and this 
claim is never refused, or the parents would have to repay, 
perhaps, two or three times more than the value of the pre- 
sents. At the time of parturition, the women go into a hut 
prepared for them in the silent recesses of the woods, where 
they remain during two moons, secluded from every eye, save 
one of the family. After this they are considered purified, and 
are again permitted to mingle with their friends. Whilst the 
woman is so confined to the hut, no one is allowed to pass to 



76 RESIDENCE ON THE 

windward, not even the sookeahs; for it is imagined, that a 
person by so doing would intercept the wind, and thus, that 
the mother and child having their breath taken from them, 
would cease to exist ; and if either should die, the death must 
be paid for, and payment is never refused. 

The Sambo girls have a custom of eating charcoal and sand. 
I have seen several busily employed digging deep in the sand, 
to obtain it fresh and moist, and they have appeared to enjoy 
it with great gusto. They put on their heads a powdered 
vegetable substance; this, with the oil on their bodies, causes 
a disagreeable odour, especially when warmed by dancing or 
labour. 

The Sambos manage their pitpans with great skill in the 
rapid rivers, as also their doreys at sea, and, being all dexterous 
swimmers, if the dorey upsets, one will swim and collect the 
paddles, while the others turn her over and bale her out ; not 
losing any of their property, for they take the precaution of 
fastening their tournous, patakees,* and other little articles 
to the sides of their craft. An Englishman need be under little 
apprehension, when sailing in a dorey with a crew of Sambos, 
as in case of any accident, by being capsized at sea, or among 
the breakers when beaching, they will save his life if possible, 
as it is a generally received opinion with them, that if they 
suffer an Englishman to be drowned, they will surely be hung 
by the king. Doreys built of cedar, are liable to split from 
stem to stern on beaching, even although protected by knees, 
but they do not take the worm so much as mahogany doreys, 
which, if kept in the water for a short time, will soon be spoilt; 
mahogany doreys however do not split. Doreys made from 
the tuberose for sea-service, are decideedly the best, and are 
used by the Caribs. 

The Sambos count with their fingers and toes, reckon their 
days by sleeps, and months by moons. Their dwellings are 



* A kind of basket made from reed, by the Caribs, and so arranged, 
that tbe water will not for a long time penetrate into it. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 77 

quickly made ; they have no division in their huts, but sleep 
on crickeries, which are formed of posts four or five feet high, 
driven into the ground, pieces of split bamboo being laid on 
the top ; but sometimes they suspend hammocks between the 
posts. A few huts are built near each other, forming a village. 
Their whole household property consists of a few iron pots, 
wooden bowls, spoons and stools, calabashes and gourds for 
water, a few small oushners, striking staffs, harpoons, and 
other trifling things ; with here and there a gun, and some 
rudely shaped moccassins hanging up, and generally a few 
bunches of plantains or bananas tied to the ridge pole. Some 
of these people are clever in making maho ropes and rope 
hammocks, lances, bows and arrows, harpoons, and trimming 
doreys and pitpans. They are remarkable for their dexterity 
and success in hunting and fishing, by which they can subsist 
in plenty, where others less adroit would perish with hunger. 
The women are remarkably attached to small red, white, blue, 
and black beads, from which they form some curious necklaces. 

The songs of this people are made on the inspiration of the 
moment, on the occasion of any particularly good or bad news ; 
and it is at times affecting to hear a mother calling for her de- 
parted child ; even the unvaried and monotonous chaunt has a 
charm for them, and the men will sit down and quietly listen 
to all the fond names which a doating mother will lavish on the 
child, who will, alas ! never return to her. I was once much 
affected ; for the poor woman seemed as if her whole heart 
and soul were centered in the child who had gone. Her sur- 
viving offspring were forgotten, in her sorrow for the lost one. 
The paroxysms of their grief are often so violent, that if not 
prevented, they would hang themselves on the first tree. 

The following are the words of a song, and emanating from 
the wild, rude, and uncultivated heart of a savage : — 

" Keker miren nane, warwar paser yamne krouekan. Coope 
narer mi koolkun I doukser. Dear mane kuker cle wol proue. 
I sabbeane wal moonter mopparra. Keker mis£re yapte wine- 
gan. Koker sombolo barnar lippun, lippun, lippunke. Koo- 



78 RESIDENCE ON THE 

lunker punater bin biwegan. Coope n&rer tanes I doukser. 
Coope narer mi koolkun I doukser." 

It may thus be rendered : — 

" Dear girl, I am going far from thee. When shall we meet 
again to wander together on the sea side ? I feel the sweet sea 
breeze blow its welcome on my cheek. I hear the distant roll- 
ing of the mournful thunder. I see the lightning flashing on 
the mountain's top, and illumining all things below, but thou 
art not near me. My heart is sad and sorrowful; farewell! 
dear girl, without thee I am desolate." 

This country is laid down in the old Spanish charts, as be- 
longing to the province of Yucatan, and many of our old 
English voyagers speak of the regard and reverence these 
Indians had for the English, and of their willingness at all 
times to fight against their mutual enemies, the Spaniards ; 
witness Dampier, Falconer, Frobisher, and a host of others. 

The natives are remarkably attached to the Jews'-harp, and 
play extremely well upon it. They have but few tunes, and 
those are invariably played on particular occasions ; such as 
leaving home, or returning to it, or on the death of any rela- 
tive. At other times, when assembled together at night, one 
will awake, and play as he lies on his back, for the entertain- 
ment of his companions. I have often listened with very great 
pleasure and surprise to this little instrument, it sounds so 
sweetly and soothingly, and have wondered how people so 
utterly uncivilized, could produce such sweet tones from what 
may be almost considered in the light of a toy, except in the 
hands of such men as Ehrenstein. 

Whatever may be charged against the Sambos, such as 
petty thieving, indolence, and drunkenness, very few crimes of 
any flagrant enormity are committed, although they are living 
without religion, and with but few laws. Sometimes indeed, 
as in all other countries, a man suddenly becomes notorious for 
his bad deeds, and is the dread and aversion of his fellow 
creatures. About five years ago a Sambo, living under the 
king's jurisdiction, became thus eminent for his horrible and 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 79 

atrocious crimes, and eluded all attempts made to apprehend 
him. At length being hotly pursued, he escaped to the General 
Lowry Robinson's side, who immediately, on hearing of it, 
collected a band of quarter-masters, and set out in pursuit. 
Proceeding to the Patook River, they encountered him, and 
after a desperate and determined resistance, he was secured, 
and sent to the king, who caused him to be hanged at once, 
without judge or jury. 

There is a singular tradition relative to a creek leading from 

the Patook River, which the natives believe is the abode of 

departed spirits ; that no one ever returned who ascended it ; 

and affirm, that several have attempted to do so, and were 

never heard of afterwards. The natives have the greatest 

dread of it, and will never talk on the subject. Some time ago 

an American, named Smith, who had a house and plantation on 

the savanna by the side of the lagoon, to the eastward of Black 

River, being at Patook, and hearing of the much dreaded creek, 

determined to venture. He accordingly set out in a pitpan 

alone from the mouth of the creek, and, after an absence of two 

days, returned, to the great astonishment of the natives. Smith 

told a most improbable story of a large white cock which had 

interrupted him, and of the dangers he had encountered. This 

of course had the effect of causing the superstitious natives to 

dread the creek more than ever. Shortly after, Smith died, 

the natives attributing his death to his temerity. The stories 

he told, none but the most ignorant could by any possibility 

believe. It is therefore the opinion of many, he had discovered 

some treasure up the creek, and invented all his wonderful 

tales to deter others. 

I have had no means of ascertaining the numbers of the 
Sambos. It has been calculated lately, that the whole popu- 
lation does not exceed 8000, as they have been decreasing 
for many years, although gradually approaching civilization. 
The Sambos at the Cape and to the southward of it, are 
generally a finer race than those to the northward and west- 
ward. The Sambos residing at Patook, however, are a very 



80 RESIDENCE ON THE 

fine and active people, having more of the negro blood than 
almost any others on the Shore. It is here that an old negro, 
named William, resides, who, when a young lad, was wrecked 
on the coast, and became a slave to General Lowry's father ; 
on his demise he gained his freedom, established himself at 
Patook, and from being the owner of one cow, he now possesses, 
I should suppose, upwards of 400 head of cattle. Other 
negros dwell here, who have intermarried with the Sambos, 
follow their customs, and consider themselves in all respects 
Mosquitians. 

Patook abounds with game, especially deer. It has a very 
fine and extensive savanna and pine ridges, on which thousands 
of cattle could find subsistence ; a river, by which trade is 
carried on with the Towckas Indians, at its head, for doreys 
and pitpans. This river contains much mahogany and 
cedar, and other valuable woods. On Patook Pine Ridge an 
old Mosquito chief resides, named General Mettison, a man 
much respected for his upright conduct. He, like most of his 
countrymen, has an English cognomen, and well he deserves 
it, for he sets a bright example; he disavows sookeahism and 
mushla drinks, and looks with regret at the gradual decay of 
his country; for he says, " My countrymen are going wrong 
way— they drink Englis grog and mushla — they go after the 
sookeahs — they have bad chiefs — so bye and bye the Englis 
will take all the country, and my nation will be dead." This 
man is regarded as a friend, a counseller and judge. To 
Englishmen he behaves most hospitably ; provides them with 
food, lodging, horses, guides; and, as a parting benison, 
invariably says, " Good bye, friend, you come again soon, 
please God." 

The Poyer Indians, as they are called, inhabit the Poyer 
mountains, beyond the Embarcadero on -the Polyer River. 
They are a mild and inoffensive race, and are very dexterous 
in manufacturing from their wild cotton a sort of cloak they 
call a kinkoora, which being dyed according to some device, 
and the down of birds interwoven in the fabric, has a very 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 81 

pleasing appearance. These people fly at all times from the 
Sambos, of whom they are in much fear, as the Sambos rob 
and plunder them on all occasions ; so that the poor toil-worn 
Indians are obliged to make their plantations far in the bush, 
to prevent their being tracked and plundered; with all their 
caution however they do not always succeed, as the Sambos, 
with their characteristic cunning, often contrive to discover 
them. I have known several pitpans start from the village on 
Black River lagoon on an expedition, and return in a few 
days loaded with plunder from the fear-stricken Indians. 
Formerly great cruelties were practised upon these unfortu- 
nates, the example being set by a principal chief of the Sambos, 

General , who, whenever he required houses built, 

or plantations cut, would send a token by some of his quarter- 
masters, for a number of the Indians to assist him. They were 
obliged to obey, and the quarter-masters would help themselves 
to whatever they thought proper, by way of payment for the 
time they had lost in executing the general's orders ; and if by 
any accident a sufficient number of men could not be collected, 
they would seize several boys and girls, as albas, (slaves,) and 
payment must be made to redeem them. Another cruel 
exaction was, the compelling them to dig so many bundles of 
sarsaparilla, by such a time ; and, failing in their task, they 
would have to dig more to pay the Sambos sent after it. They 
were subjected also to many other hardships of a similar nature. 
Previously to my leaving Black River, a paper was received 
from the superintendent of Balize, ordering that the, Indians 
should not dig sarsaparilla, or work, or do anything, without 
being paid for their labour ; this order was read to the general 
very much to his chagrin ; he, however, gave his consent, and 
on the Poyers coming down, I informed them, in the Mosquito 
language, which some of them understood, of the order, whereat 
they seemed much pleased. The superintendent of Balize 
having himself personally declared all the slaves at Corn Island 
and other places free, and the king of the Mosquito Shore 
having set all he had at liberty, the general signed a paper,. 

G 



82 RESIDENCE ON THE 

declaring the freedom of those who had been his slaves from 
their birth. 

The Poyer Indians have long black hair hanging over their 
shoulders, very broad faces, small eyes, with a peculiar ex- 
pression of sadness and docility, which prepossess a beholder 
in then* favour. They are short, but remarkably strong, and 
capable of carrying heavy burthens over the rocky passes 
of their steep mountains, without much fatigue. They are 
much disfigured by the boolpees, more so than the Sambos, 
owing, in my opinion, to the absence of salt. A present of a 
few handfuls of salt will ensure a speedy return in the shape 
of sugar-cane, plantains, &c. Their character for faith and 
honesty stands very high, but they, like all savage races, 
exhibit a fondness for liquor. They bring for sale, sarsaparilla, 
cacao, pimento, kinkooras, and several sorts of bread kind, 
fowls, turkeys, muscovy ducks, &c. which they exchange for 
iron-pots, clasp-knives, macheets, powder, shot, beads, &c. 

Formerly the district from Golfo Dulce to Cape Gracias a 
Dios, was named Tolagalpa, and further southward, Taguz- 
galpa. According to Don Domingo Juarros, in the year 1600, 
an enterprizing Andalusian, by name Christoval Martinez de 
la Puerta, arrived on the coast of Honduras, landing at 
Truxillo, and on an expedition into the interior, he found that 
the country was very thickly inhabited, and the natives very- 
well disposed to exchange their idolatry for Christianity. The 
young Christoval being seized with an eager desire to convert 
them, commenced his labours, by going to the city of Guate- 
mala to be ordained a priest ; he passed his examination with 
honour, and was ordained, and commissioned to teach the 
heathen. 

He endured many hardships, was twice driven from the coast 
of Taguzgalpa by contrary winds, but, unwilling to abandon his 
enterprize, he penetrated at length into that district by way of 
Cape Gracias a Dios, accompanied by Juan Vaena, a person of 
excellent character, virtues and qualifications. These two 
committed themselves to an unknown country, surrounded by 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 83 

barbarians, with no other protection than that of Providence, 
an act of self-devotedness, far surpassing the boasted exploit of 
Cortes, in ordering his ships to be burnt after his arrival at 
Vera Cruz, at a time when he was surrounded by a savage 
and warlike people, because Cortes had able and gallant officers 
to assist him with their advice, and soldiers to execute his 
commands ; in addition to which, he had fire-arms, which alone 
struck terror into the hearts of his foes. Here were two poor 
friars, with nothing but the Gospel of peace and goodwill in 
their hands, exposing themselves among a nation of cannibals. 
I cannot better give this interesting account, than in the words 
of Juarros, translated by Lieut. Bayley, R. N. 

" The missionaries found themselves on a desert shore, 
unmarked by any traces of the human race having inhabited it; 
occasionally however they saw at a distance an Indian or two, 
who, on perceiving the strangers, immediately fled in con- 
sternation. In this solitude they passed two days ; on the 
morning of the third, they observed a numerous body of the 
natives, both male and female, appproaching. The men were 
naked, with the exception of a piece of cloth before them, 
painted red, with plumes of feathers on their heads, and lances 
in their hands ; the women were also painted red, had small 
aprons before them, and garlands of flowers in their hands ; the 
last person of this company was a venerable old man with long 
white hair. On coming up to the missionaries he made a 
profound obeisance, said, in a language they could understand, 
that they were welcome; and asked why they had so long 
delayed coming, to the great risk of his dying before their 
arrival; he added that he had long expected them, with the 
greatest anxiety to render his services ; that he was not blame- 
able for not having come before now to pay .'lis respects, 
because he had understood they were to arrive by land, and 
had placed sentinels on the tops of the highest mountains to 
give him notice of their approach. 

" Great indeed was the astonishment of Martinez and his 
companion at this unexpected address ; and, asking the old 

g 2 



84 RESIDENCE ON THE 

man who had given him information of their intended visit, he 
replied, (mirabile dictu !) that being one day at work in his 
plantation, there appeared to him a white child, more beautiful 
than anything he had ever before seen or could hnagine ; it 
looked at him with great tenderness, and said, ' Know that you 
will not die before you become a christian ; there will come 
some white men with robes of the colour of this ground, 
reaching to their feet ; when they arrive, receive them kindly, 
and do not permit any one to anger them, for they are ministers 
of God, who has granted thee this signal mark of His mercy, 
because thou hast done well, and hast supported those who 
wanted assistance !' 

" It is worthy of notice, that this old man, even in his 
idolatry, had employed himself in acts of kindness ; he culti- 
vated maize to distribute among those in distress, he composed 
strifes, and settled all disputes among the neighbours, besides 
performing many other kind offices where they were wanted. 
Martinez was greatly rejoiced at hearing this, he comforted 
the old man, and promised to perform for him all the duties of 
a good pastor. 

" The Indians immediately set about constructing a hut for 
the strangers, near a river called Xarua. On the following 
day they erected a very large one for a church, and crosses 
were raised in different places by the side of the paths. The 
missionaries began to instruct their friends, they baptized the 
old man and all his family ; many of the Indians requested to 
have the same indulgence granted to them, from the great 
respect they bore towards the old man, and also, because they 
understood that these were the fathers who had so long before 
been announced to them by the God of the mountains." 

In 1630, they were joined by Benito Lopez ; and these three 
brothers laboured for many years among their first friends, and 
the Guabas, a race of mulattos, the progeny of some Spaniards 
who had suffered shipwreck. The missionaries attended to 
their spiritual concerns, and by visiting them in sickness, and 
curing their maladies, the names of the good white men spread 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 85 

far and near, and numbers came, and were converted. In 
the midst of this plentiful harvest, these three indefatigable 
labourers in the cause of Christianity, were cut off, having 
fallen victims to the savage and unreclaimed Albatuinasians, a 
neighbouring tribe. These savages seized Martinez, and im- 
paled him on a lance, cut off one of his hands, and broke his 
legs with then- clubs, and he died in excruciating torments ; 
the two others were killed by wounds from their lances, and 
their legs and arms cut off. The governor of Truxillo, 
although unable to chastise the murderers, succeeded, with the 
aid of the converted Indians, in obtaining the bodies of the 
victims, which were conveyed to Truxillo, and buried with 
great pomp on the 16th January, 1634. Several other efforts 
were made to convert the various Indians of this district, with 
but little success, till at length the attempt was given up 
altogether. 

With respect to Tolagalpa, in which the province Victoria is 
situated, numerous efforts have been made to convert the Indians 
from their idolatry. Lagares, a learned and pious friar, pro- 
ceeded up the River Tinto, to the Paya Indians, (now Poyer) 
among whom he resided for a length of time, converting many, 
and constantly performing acts of charity. His converts in- 
creased, his fame spread abroad, the manufacture of many 
things sprung up under his auspices, when a neighbouring 
tribe, incited by jealousy, surrounded the village, and set fire 
to it, and as the converted Indians endeavoured to escape, 
they were cruelly butchered, and Lagares himself lanced as he 
was coming out of his house. Falling on his knees, he held 
his crucifix high in the air, and died, like St. Stephen, praying 
for his murderers. 

Alonza de Daza being sent with a message to Lagares, fell 
into an ambush, and was with all his soldiers, except two who 
escaped, cruelly slain. After this fresh act of hostility on the 
part of the Payas, they were left to their superstition and 
idolatry ; and the country has from that period been cut off 
from all the benefits which it might have received from the 



86 RESIDENCE ON THE 

good and pious Franciscans, who were at all times ready to 
spread the Gospel and to undergo the most fearful trials. 

At the present day the most gross superstition exists 
amongst the Poyers, and then idolatrous feasts to the evil 
spirit are as common as ever, but their savage character has 
disappeared, for they are now a mild and peaceable race, having 
tact and ingenuity in their little simple manufactures, which 
would puzzle a machine -loving European. 

There is another class of Poyer Indians, but much lower in 
the scale of civilization, and those are termed wild Indians, for 
like the Arabs, they wander to and fro as they list, making 
plantations, which in the course of so many moons they revisit, 
to gather then fruits. These wild Indians collect honey, vege- 
table dyes, sarsaparilla, and other things, which they sell to 
their more civilized brethren for hooks, macheets, harpoons, 
lance-heads, &c. They have no intercourse whatever with the 
Sambos, and it is only because they cannot do without such 
things as I have enumerated, that they visit the Poyer settle- 
ment. 

One of these wild Indians, by what chance I could never 
ascertain, was brought down to us in an Indian pitpan. He 
was a tall powerful looking man, but as" timid as a hare ; at 
the sound of our voices he seemed to tremble ; and if looked at 
fixedly, he would shudder with terror. In a short time he 
recovered from his consternation, and when I presented him 
with some small hooks and other little things, he cautiously 
approached and took them, but all the while not daring to look 
upwards. He shewed no astonishment at anything he saw ; 
even a looking-glass did not seem to have any charm for him ; 
he appeared lost in wonder at seeing the pale-faces, whom 
perhaps he mistook for something superhuman. 

He had brought down some rudely manufactured bottles 
full of honey, which I took, and on handing him a macheet in 
exchange, his eyes glistened with delight ; and it was evident 
his heart was touched, for no living creature ever exhibited 
such symptoms of intense gratification. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 87 

In a few hours they left us, and he would doubtless be 
told by his companions, in their native tongue, much about the 
English, for on the Poyers visiting us, all negotiations are 
carried on in the Mosquito language, which most of them 
understand. The Indians who live on the banks of the Seco, 
have much the same character as the Poyers. 

The Towckas are remarkable for industry and inoffensive - 
ness : they are generally a much finer race of men than either 
the Poyers or the Secos ; they speak at all times low and easy, 
and have an air of extreme gentleness and melancholy ; they 
sound the letter S in almost every word. They are celebrated 
for making doreys and pitpans ; their principal residence is at 
the head of Patook River. Three or four years back, General 
Lowry carried about twenty-five away from Patook, and placed 
them some distance up Black River, contiguous to Polyer 
River, for the purpose of making him doreys and pitpans ; 
now, alas ! from some disease or other, there are not more 
than nine or ten living, who wish to return to the place of 
then* birth. The Towckas, like the other tribes, have a high 
character for faith and probity, and are alike famed for carrying 
heavy burthens. They are very dexterous in shooting birds 
on the wing with their bows and arrows ; they are well adapted 
for anything requiring sagacity and endurance. It is astonish- 
ing to observe the very little value these Indians place on their 
labour ; for instance, they will sell a dorey or pitpan for one 
axe and a macheet, or two iron pots, and so on, notwithstanding 
the incredible time they bestow in making them. Doreys and 
pitpans can always be got from the village at the head of 
Patook River. 

The Seco Indians say, that their river above the great fall is 
full of mahogany and cedar trees, and large savannas, but I do 
not vouch for the accuracy of their statement, though I myself 
have no doubt of its truth, as it has always had a reputation 
for the value of its woods. The falls in the Seco River com- 
mence on the first day's travel up ; the Indians reckon it to be 
two and a half sleeps before they reach the great fall. Much 



88 RESIDENCE ON THE 

sarsaparilla is collected by the Indians, who dispose of it to the 
Sambos ; the latter putting their own price upon each bundle, 
and giving in exchange a few beads, small hooks, macheets, 
&c. which the inoffensive creatures receive with implicit faith. 
The Sambos then carry it in then* doreys to Truxillo, where 
they get from three to four dollars per arroba, (251bs, English,) 
receiving the amount in goods. The quantity of sarsaparilla 
in the interior must be very great ; when in Truxillo, I was 
told by a merchant there, that a Spaniard had just come down 
from the top of the Roman, or Lymas River, (I forget which,) 
with nearly eighty arrobas of sarsaparilla, which he had col- 
lected by employing a few of the Indians, and paying them 
some trifling article for every bundle they brought him. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 89 



CHAPTER VII. 

Earthquake — Hurricanes — A Northwester — Lightning — Action of Rust 
— Description of Black River—Pine Ridges — Cabbage Trees— John 
Crows — Old Clearance — An Englishman's Location — Insects — Bananas 
—Hunters— Polyer River— Snags— Monkey-hill— Hot Spring— Emb arc a- 
dero— New Scenery — Absence of Insects— Encampment — Indian Town 
— Mahogany Falling — stream — Indian Hospitality — Disappointment 
— Soil — Danger of descending in a Flood — Birds — Hunting Passes — 
Qualm — Curassow — Curious circumstance respecting — Warrie — 
Peccary— Monkeys — Deer— Gibeonets — Indian Rabbits — Antelopes — 
Guanas — Quash— Manatee— Mountain Cow — Ground Partridges — 
Pigeons, <fec. — Teal— Ducks, &c. — Land Crabs — Locust — Insects — 
Bocatoro — Bread kind. 

Some time after my arrival at Black River, whilst trading with 
some Sambos, an unusual rumbling noise alarmed us, so that 
we were all struck with amazement. It continued increasing, 
and before we had time to imagine the cause, we felt the shock 
of an earthquake, which lasted about five seconds ; it was 
succeeded by another, not so violent as the first. At the time 
dark clouds obscured the sun; they passed away, the sun 
poured fourth its glorious beams, the sea breeze blew sweetly, 
the waters sparkled in the sun's rays, and all nature smiled 
again. When the first shock occurred, several of the Sambos 
fled from the house with precipitation, calling out "Nikke 
nikke," which has the same signification as earthquake. I 
have conversed with many old natives, who only knew what the 
" Nikke nikke" meant, by their fathers having told them. 

Hurricanes seldom visit these shores, in which respect this 
country is particularly favoured, having few or none of those 
awful visitations, which devastate whole islands; consigning 
to poverty and despair thousands of our fellow creatures. 



90 RESIDENCE ON THE 

During the latter part of 1840, a north west wind did 
considerable damage to the plantations of the Caribs and 
Sambos, destroying the fruits of many months' labour, scattering 
their houses, or completely unroofing them. This violent wind 
blew nearly forty-eight hours, being attended with heavy 
torrents of rain, and as we sat listening to the raging elements, 
and the lashing and roaring of the sea on the beach, we were 
in momentary expectation of our house being blown to pieces ; 
but having secured the lee side by long crutches, we stood out 
the gale. For some days after this, not a creature visited us. 

The thunder and lightning, in some seasons, during six or 
eight weeks of the year, in July and August, is awfully grand, 
and in the pine ridges it is said to be terrific ; distant rolling 
thunder and the usual sheet lightning is common at other times. 
I have been in a pine ridge during a storm, but saw nothing 
extraordinary. 

Metals in this country are very subject to rust ; one day is 
sufficient to canker iron and steel; this I attribute to the humidity 
of the atmosphere in rainy seasons and the heavy dews in dry 
ones. No guns should be brought here with bright barrels, 
unless they be very common ones for sale, as constant care is 
required. Brown barrels are best for use, because with them 
a better aim can be taken, nor do they rust to so great a degree. 

Soon after my arrival, it was determined to proceed up the 
Black and Polyer Rivers to the Poyer Indians ; accordingly we 
started, and returned m a few days, highly delighted with our 
trip. The autumnal rain had just commenced, and the river 
was much flooded ; we therefore proceeded in two pitpans, 
each manned by six natives, for it is hard work to stem the 
velocity of the current at such times. As we poled up the 
river, our prospect was confined on each side to the thick bush 
and tall trees skirting the edges, plainly indicating the fertility 
of the soil, so that the eye could only be directed to the luxuri- 
ance, and the character of its foliage. In some places were huge 
branches overhanging the water, in others the rank river grass 
waving to and fro in the breeze; here tall trees without branches, 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 91 

their tops only crowned with leaves ; there the dark green bush 
in its vinous forms, and then again large trees with many 
crooked branches, overtopping the surrounding bush; this 
with the numerous windings of the river, and its banks rising 
alternately on one side and then on the other, formed a pleasing 
picture. 

In some places, a few miles up, the land is low and swampy, 
and covered with willow trees. The importance of the willow 
tree has been acknowledged from time immemorial. Ropes and 
baskets made from willow twigs are of ancient date. In many 
parts of Europe, especially France, the leaves, either green or 
dried, are given to cows and horses, and are considered very 
good food. The bark is highly astringent, and may be used in 
tanning; and the leaves are also applied medicinally. The 
Mosquito men use the bark of the mangrove tree for tanning 
antelope and deer skins to make mocassins. 

About six miles up the river, on the eastern side, we came 
to the opening of a savanna and pine ridge, which commences 
on the right bank of the channel leading to Black River lagoon, 
and on which bank the Sambos have a settlement of about four- 
teen houses. Some of the inhabitants have a few horses on 
this savanna, and at times some horned cattle are kept there, 
till the announcement of a seekroe, when they are invariably 
killed, as a kind of meat offering or feast to the departed. In 
this pine ridge, as in many others, there are numerous trees 
bearing the very grateful fruit, crabous. The land is poor, and 
unfit for cultivation, but the grass is extremely sweet, and cattle 
are much attached to it. 

This beautiful tract of land, which extends several miles 
either way, really appears to have been laid out by some skilful 
landscape gardener, and the mind is at first impressed with 
that belief; it is interspersed with circular patches or clumps 
of papter trees, from twenty to fifty yards in diameter, and low 
shrubbery, which are the haunts of deer; and I have been 
startled, on passing these patches unguardedly, at seeing the 
affrighted deer flee to other places of refuge. There are also 



92 RESIDENCE ON THE 

great quantities of lofty pine trees. There appears however 
something wanting to complete this picture ; it is — the park 
entrance, the avenue, the red brick mansion, and the old 
English squire, for, by comparison, one is led to look round 
for them, but they are not here. No, this is Nature's demesne, 
and happy should her sons be, born to enjoy her productions, 
thus freely offered by a beneficent providence. 

Some of the pine ridges on the Mosquito Shore are consi- 
derably more extensive, and offer great advantages, by the 
innumerable red pitch pine trees, so redundant with turpen- 
tine ; but, in this place, most of the red pine trees have been 
felled by the natives, from time to time, to make their torches, 
and for other purposes. This timber, from its length and 
straightness, is very useful for building, and for masts, spars, &c. 

A few years since a gentleman built a house upon this pine 
ridge, and negotiated for the purchase of some horned cattle 
and mules from the Spaniards, at the top of the Polyer River, 
and obtained a great many head, which were brought down 
the river, and placed on the pine ridge, to recover from their 
journey, previously to being driven along the sea beach to their 
destination, Cape Gracias a Dios. Unfortunately, this gentle- 
.man left his cattle in the charge of some natives, and proceeded 
to the Cape to receive them. When they reached that place, 
they were diminished in number more than one half, through 
the neglect and inattention of the drivers, in crossing the 
various rivers, where, by a little prudence, not one need have 
perished ; they were driven in altogether, and left to manage 
by themselves ; thus they impeded each others progress, and 
were drowned. Cattle and horses are always swum across 
lagoons, and without accident: a rope is fastened to the horse's 
neck, and a man in the centre of a pitpan or dory will hold up 
his head, while two or three others paddle it to the other side. 

In the pine ridges, mounds of earth rise from the flat surface 
of the savanna, to the height of eight or ten feet or more, having 
a broad top, sufficiently large for dwelling houses ; these 
mounds run sometimes the whole length of the savanna, not 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 93 

however in a straight line. Some parts of the savanna are 
swampy, and there are petty annoyances, such as flies, dog fleas, 
and harmless grass snakes ; but the use of proper means would 
soon lessen their numbers and visits. On leaving the pine 
ridge, the river had the same appearance, one continuous bush ; 
till at length the view was somewhat enlivened by the many 
cabbage trees, and the tall and gracefully bending bamboo, 
which is very useful, when split, to form pallisading for houses. 
The cabbage tree is also valuable for the same purpose ; for 
instance, if felled at a proper age, the trunk will allow of four 
junks, of at least eight or nine feet each, being cut from it, and 
and from each of these junks, five or six boards, an inch and a 
quarter in thickness, and about seven inches wide, can be ob- 
tained, thus becoming a valuable tree for stockading. On the 
top of the tree a flaky substance grows, four or five feet long, 
about twelve or fifteen inches in diameter, according to the size 
of the tree, the taste resembling the heart of a cabbage ; this is 
much liked by the natives, and may be eaten, though sparingly, 
by Europeans, when boiled. If partaken of too freely it is apt 
to occasion diarrhoea. At certain seasons of the year, the 
delicious bird, the qualm, feeds on the fruit of this tree. Pass- 
ing a sandy bay* we disturbed a flock of large birds, called 
John Crows, rising from the body of a dead alligator : these birds 
are scavengers of the right sort, always at work, clearing the 
country of animal impurities, so that their lives are held sacred 
both by natives and settlers. 

At length we arrived at a spot on the western side of the 
I river, about sixteen miles up, which, according to the statement 
« of an old Mosquitian, had formerly been settled by the English. 
Landing, we attentively examined the spot, but found no traces 
of houses ; but there had evidently been plantations, for wherever 
a white man sets his foot, he leaves traces that cannot be mis- 



* Sandy bays are banks left in the river in the dry seasons, but which 
are covered in the heavy floods. On these bays the natives and others 
encamp, when travelling up or down the river. 



94 RESIDENCE ON THE 

taken. In one spot we found a Seville orange tree in a bearing 
state, the fruit however was small, in consequence of being 
shaded from the sun by the bush, Avhich had overtopped it. 
In another place were numerous lime and lemon trees, which 
must, from their regularity, have been planted with care. 
Here another species of orange, a soursop, and some sarsapa- 
rilla ; also a cacao tree, with at least fifty large pods sus- 
pending from its branches, were discovered. Cutting a pass 
with our macheets, we came to a part which had once evidently 
been cleared, as, instead of there being trees, it was covered 
with wild cane and tall tiger grass. On the eastern side are 
several high hills ; on one of which an English gentleman, Mr. 
B., has located, cleared a good space of ground, and planted a 
portion with bread kind. Having felled the bush in front of his 
dwelling, he has an uninterrupted view of the sea, and is pro- 
tected from the land wind, in a great measure, by allowing the 
tall trees to remain at the rear of his house. On this gentle- 
man's location, game is at times plentiful ; and on one occasion, 
when in his company, although the weather was rainy, we had 
excellent sport ; the cry of the qualm was heard in various 
directions, and we killed several, besides guanas and gaul- 
dings. 

A species of small yellow butterfly is met with, in great 
numbers, all the way up the rivers ; sometimes, for several 
hours, they may be seen gaily fluttering about, and proceed- 
ing down its course. I did not observe any other sort till we 
arrived at the Embarcadero, where very large and beautifully 
coloured ones appeared in great variety, but not more so than 
in the bush along the sea shore. 

Night creeping on, we returned to a sandy bay, erected our 
tent, and put up our mosquito curtains, before sun-set ; for at 
that time we expected our evening visiters, the mosquitos, who 
are always particularly anxious to get inside. After a few 
hours we were awakened by the sound of the coming rain, 
which soon soaked through our tarpaulin and pavilion ; aroused 
and wet, we were exposed to our tormentors, the Sambos 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 95 

cursing, groaning, and slapping their bare skins, or doing that 
kind office for each other, by the light of the fire we made, 
to kill the worrying insects ; the smoke being ineffectual in 
driving them away. The sun arose — the mosquitos fled — the 
rain ceased, and gladly we pursued our way. A few bends 
further up the river is a hill, called Lowiy Hill, on which was 
formerly a large coffee plantation, but now it is like the sur- 
rounding country, covered with bush. Proceeding upwards 
from hence for a few miles, we saw the Seco hills, and on 
looking behind us, had a view of the Sugar-Loaf and other 
mountains ; our sight of them before having been prevented by 
the bush on each side of us. On the western bank, a few 
miles before reaching the Polyer River, there are some high 
hills, but they cannot be seen from the river. It is said that a 
person, named Johnson, once had sugar works there, and that 
the iron boilers he used in his business are still on the spot. 

We found on the borders of the river many trees useful for 
building purposes, but no mahogany, that having been cut by 
the English, when settled on Mosquito Bank. There is how- 
ever every reason to suppose that mahogany may be found at 
short distances from the banks. We observed thousands of 
banana trees growing spontaneously, the fruit of which is so 
much sought after by the natives, who come from very distant 
parts to Black River, to gather it. Suckers in any quantity 
can always be obtained here, which can be put in the ground 
at once, and will give but little further trouble. The banana, 
eight months after being planted, will begin to form in bunches, 
and in ten or eleven months the fruit may be gathered. When 
the stalk is cut, some shoots are left, and they bear in a few 
months ; by this means a banana walk may be kept up, with- 
out any other trouble than now and then dressing the roots. 
The ripe fruit is highly esteemed, although it is apt to disagree 
with Europeans, if eaten shortly before or after taking spirits. 
The green fruit is cut into slices by the Spaniards, and exposed 
to the sun, and when rubbed, forms a kind of flour, of which 
they are fond. 



96 



RESIDENCE ON THE 



While staying on a sandy bay, we sent out two Sambos 
to hunt, two Towckas Indians whom we had fallen in with, 
accompanying them. They shortly returned, bringing in 
a warrie and a peccary, the former they killed themselves, 
the latter was killed for them by a large striped jaguar, (com- 
monly called a tiger,) which was on the point of feeding on it, 
when the hunters came upon him; the moment he caught 
sight of them, he precipitately fled. The Indians were armed 
with bows and arrows, and the Sambos with guns, and they 
succeeded in bringing in a good quantity of game. The 
Sambos commenced barbacueing the warrie, which is done in the 
following manner : — A few sticks are placed on each side of 
the fire, and some across, sufficiently high to prevent the meat 
placed on them from being burnt ; the smoke and heat dry up 
the juices of the meat, which is constantly turned till done ; it 
will then keep sweet for some days without the aid of salt. 
Previously to any part of the barbacued meat being eaten, it is 
necessary to cut off the outside, as it always tastes bitter, and 
will impair the flavour of the rest : when stewed or grilled, 
is very good. Travellers should always barbacue their game 
the moment it is killed, it being very little trouble, while it 
saves the necessity of being loaded with much salt. After 
sufficiently barbacueing the meat, we proceeded, and entered 
into the Polyer River. 

The navigation of this river is much interrupted by snags, 
which we had some trouble in avoiding. These snags are 
large trees brought down the river by former floods, and on 
the latter subsiding, left firmly imbedded in the stream. The 
higher we got up the river, the more these snags abounded ; 
sometimes huge trees would lie across the stream, effectually 
preventing our progress, till our pitpans were hauled over the 
obstacles. On our reaching the Embarcadero, they became 
less in number and size, no longer causing us any trouble. 
The banks of the Polyer abounds with the same description of 
trees and bush as Black River, and a few mahogany trees. 
The Towckas Indians say, that in the interior there are both 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 97 

mahogany and cedar, and it is from this river they obtain those 
woods to make their pitpans. 

On the left bank of the river is a high hill rising gradually 
from the bank, called Monkey Hill, on the top of which is a 
hot spring, which was formerly resorted to by the English, 
settled at Black River, for its medicinal qualities ; and two or 
three of the old natives say, they remember well the numbers 
that used to visit it, (and one of them had acted as a guide.) 
He said the water was always boiling, and that from its centre 
a very tall tree grows, but of what description I could not 
ascertain. There are but few in existence who are acquainted 
with the pass leading to it, and I do not think any could be 
induced to act as guides, as they now firmly believe the 
Oulasser has his abode there. I had a great desire to pene- 
trate to it, and though I made several tempting offers, they 
were invariably refused. 

On arriving at the Embarcadero, we met with new scenery, 
high rocks on the banks, on which grew mahogany and other 
trees of a large size, while the bed of the stream was studded 
with rocks just under water, so that caution was required to 
prevent our frail pitpans from striking against them, as we 
poled or paddled along. Proceeding some distance, we came 
to a small creek leading to the pass over the mountains to the 
Indian Town ; the water being very shallow, our pitpans were 
hauled up the meandering stream, till we came to a high stony 
bank, where we encamped for the night, perfectly free from 
annoying insects of every kind ; all that appeared of the insect 
tribe being small ants, and the indefatigable little stingless bee. 
Our situation was replete with interest, encamped as we were 
on a high rock, with the gushing stream leaping under us, and 
the broad face of the moon shining upon us. 

Quietly we sat listening to the murmuring waters and the 

droning songs of the natives, frequently interrupted by the 

j short cry of the tiger cat, the uncouth noise of the baboon, 

and peculiar call of the night hen. We sat up late that 

evening, our cigars and the pure limpid water being a source 



98 RESIDENCE ON THE 

of great enjoyment. We started for the Indian Town at 
daylight, and after three hours hard travelling through a 
narrow pass, over high hills, crossing brooks up to our loins, 
we arrived there. On our way we fell in with some tall and 
bulky mahogany trees ; cedar trees, caoutchouc, and others of 
large size were in abundance, as were parisitical flowers and 
beautiful plants, to us perfectly new. 

The Indian Town, to my astonishment, was comprised in 
one large house of an oval form, about 85 feet in length and 
35 feet in breadth, in which all the natives resided truly in 
the patriarchal style. Crickeries were erected all around close 
to each other, separated by two or three cabbage boards ; each 
family having one of these compartments. At one side of the 
house a place was divided off, about 16 feet by 10 feet, and 
hidden from view by green leaves, which were replenished as 
fast as they faded. In this place the women are kept during 
their confinement, and, after a few days, they are again able 
to attend to then* multifarious duties. 

On our entrance, the women were busily occupied, some 
pounding cassada and Indian corn together, boiling it, and 
making it into a beverage called oulung; some preparing 
cassada for bread in the morning, others making tournous, 
others again rubbing cacao and squeezing sugar-cane ; in truth 
the whole body of them were most busily employed, under 
the management of the chief's wife ; the chief, who is called 
by the English name of officer, being absent. We were 
looked upon with a quiet sort of wonder, the women merely 
gazing for a few minutes upon the white men, of whom perhaps 
they had heard much, and then they resumed their pounding, 
boiling, and beating. The oulung is a beverage not to be 
despised on a warm day, by those who do not mind a particu- 
larly sour taste. After the second time of tasting it, I sought 
it with pleasure. Their bread too is sour, but even that I 
relished. It is made of pounded cassada into rolls, about 
fifteen or sixteen inches in length, and about the thickness of 
a man's wrist. It is then wrapped round with several layers 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 99 

of leaves, and slowly barbacued until done ; when eaten fresh 
it is good, the sour taste being acquired by keeping. The 
house is thatched in a very neat manner with swallow-tail leaf, 
to about four feet from the ground, so that the rain, however 
violent, does not trouble them. They are noted for cleanliness. 

The situation was well chosen, and a few yards from the 
house, down a steep pass, was a stream of water, forming 
innumerable cascades as it ran, leaping and dashing over the 
huge blocks of stone with which it abounded. Here, as we 
sat, our ears drank in delight at the soothing sound of the 
water, and we beheld with extreme gratification the verdant 
hills, the rich plumage of buds as they flew by, and heard the 
chattering monkeys filling the wood with then* noise. I ob- 
served around the house numerous fowls, a few Muscovy 
ducks, turkeys, and pigs, and they can in general obtain game 
by a little exertion in hunting. The peccary, which inhabits 
high and dry places, often falls here before the superior dexte- 
rity and cunning of man. Warrie are not found on the Poyer 
mountains, so that the Indians sometimes form a party, and 
descend to one of the hunting passes in Black River, or such 
places as they are known to frequent. Very few of them have 
guns ; they merely go armed with lance and bow and arrows, 
and they rarely return without a noble supply of barbacued 
meat. 

After partaking of a couple of fowls, some cassada and 
plantains, cocoa, and boiled cane-juice, prepared for us by 
these kind people, we betook ourselves to repose. Early in 
the morning, whilst in my hammock, an Indian woman timidly 
touched me, saying, " Englis," at the same time presenting 
me with a hot roll of bread, nicely done up in fresh leaves ; 
another soon came to me with a bundle of oulung, and so it 
continued until I had three or four bundles of oulung, and 
nine large rolls of bread. In return, I presented them with a 
little tobacco, some needles and salt, and gave a clasp knife 
to the officer's wife. Soon after, I was agreeably surprised by 
several of the men arriving from the plantations loaded with 

h2 



100 RESIDENCE ON THE 

sugar-cane, plantains, cacao, &c. which we very willingly 
received in exchange for a few hooks, needles, kc. 

On inquiry, I learnt that there was another town about 
fifteen miles off, judging from the rate they travel in an hour, 
and in the route to the Spanish countiy. Before our depar- 
ture, a number of Indians came from the neighbouring town, 
having been apprized of our arrival, bringing sarsaparilla to 
trade with for Osnaburg ; but we not having that, or cloth of 
any kind, they were compelled to carry their heavy burthens 
back. 

From my observations, I should decidedly say, the land all 
about the Poyer hills is exceedingly fertile, and the climate 
remarkably healthy. There are but few mosquitos. There 
are several wild plantain walks about the Polyer River, some 
of which the Sambos have not discovered, but of which the 
Indians reap the benefit. Plantain River abounds with wild 
plantains, as do the Black and Polyer Rivers with bananas. 

After staying a short time with the Indians, we made 
the best of our way down the river. We had found that 
ascending a rapid stream was hard work, but descending one 
was dangerous ; the greatest care being necessary to avoid the 
snags and to pass the falls in a narrow boat. The passage 
from the settlement at Fort Wellington to the Ernbarcadero, 
against a flood, will take a pitpan and crew of six men three 
days and a half to accomplish, but from the Ernbarcadero, with 
the flood, to Fort Wellington, about one day and a half. 

The large flights of green parrots and yellow-tails, in Black 
River, will scarcely be credited : flight after flight passing over 
our heads, and settling just at sunset on some tall spreading 
trees ; indeed, on one occasion, such quantities alighted on a 
tree at the back of our encampment, that a large branch Ibroke 
off, and the noise that ensued was laughable ; such callings, 
scoldings^ and screamings, I never heard before, and no doubt 
many were killed ; we did not search for them, not having any 
penchant for a dish of tough parrots, and skinny yellow-tails. 
They are however relished by the natives." In the morning, to 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 101 

our chagrin, we saw, as flight after flight flew away, several 
qualms that had rested for the night on the same tree, and 
were far out of gun shot when we were ready to fire. Parrots 
always fly in pairs ; thousands may be observed proceeding 
with order and regularity. Sometimes indeed a disconsolate 
bird may be seen following some happy couple, lamenting the 
loss of his partner, who perhaps had been converted into a 
stew, and thus doomed him to a season of solitude. 

I have often observed with great interest the motions and 
manoeuvres of the cricum and sumpeke, sympathy being in- 
variably enlisted in favour of the former. In walking by the 
side of a lagoon, a small white bird, the cricum, is seen skim- 
ming along the surface of the water, now ascending, and anon 
darting downwards with its body half under water, for its 
fishy prey ; at length its unwearied efforts are successful, and 
it flies rapidly away with some struggling fish in its mouth. 
In a short time a speck appears in the clear blue sky, nearer, 
nearer it approaches, till the cricum's mortal enemy, the 
sumpeke, appears plainly in view in chace. At this period 
the scene becomes highly interesting ; the cricum using all its 
art to escape, sometimes ascending higher and higher, at other 
times darting to and fro with great velocity, then flying in 
rapid circles, but all in vain; the sumpeke gains the ascen- 
dancy, poises itself for a moment, and, " with one fell swoop," 
seizes the screaming cricum, which in its terror drops the fish; 
downward darts the sumpeke, and before it regains its native 
element, it is caught and speedily devoured ; thus the plun- 
derer is plundered. Away flies the poor cricum, glad to escape 
from its tormentor ; again it skims the surface of the water — 
again seizes its fishy prey, and is again compelled to give it up 
to superior strength and power. The sumpeke is called by us, 
the man-of-war bird; I know not the English name of the 
other. 

In Black River also the splendidly coloured but noisy mac* 
caw may often be seen, and those exquisitely beautiful little 
creatures, humming-birds. The rice-bird and the banana-bird 



102 RESIDENCE ON THE 

are both very small, with rich plumage. The wood-pecker, 
the king-fisher, the spoon-bill, the crane, toucan, bill-birds, 
parrakeets, hawks, curlews, and numerous other birds are 
found here. 

On our return to the settlement, it was favourable weather 
for hunting, the woods near us being full of warrie, which had 
come down from the Seco hills, as they always do at certain 
seasons of the year. In the bush also were numerous curas- 
sows, qualms, ground partridges, &c. The natives call it all 
hunting, whether they kill an unfortunate parrot, a much-to- 
be-lamented yellow-tail, or warrie, deer, &c. 

In the woods, pathways are cut in various directions, called 
hunting passes, varying in width from three feet and upwards ; 
every obstacle being cleared over head, the pass is trodden for 
some distance, and at its terminus is the thick and matted 
bush, encumbered with what is called tie-tie, which in some 
places hangs from the tall trees like large cables, varying in 
thickness, while in other places it twines itself round every 
thing like a serpent, creeping along the ground in all direc- 
tions, thus rendering hunting very wearying, especially as the 
mosquitos are intolerably annoying ; but all is alike forgotten, 
when the cry of the qualm, the plaintive note of the curassow, 
or the short quick bark of the warrie is heard. The hunter 
then feels that delightful excitement, that leads people, in every 
part of the world, to incur hazards of all kinds, in swamps, 
jungles, prairies, mountains or seas, for its gratification. The 
qualm when fat is incomparable, being juicy, rich, and tender ; 
it is larger than a fowl, and when in good condition, I have 
seen the fine yellow fat at least a quarter of an inch in thick- 
ness. The curassow belongs to the gallinaceous tribe ; they 
are heavy of flight, and when disturbed from scratching the 
ground after insects and seeds, they utter a plaintive note, 
and gain the top of some high tree. They are about the size 
of a turkey, and then* flesh is sweet and good. The bones of 
this bird, if given to dogs, will poison them, and they die 
foaming at the mouth, and in strong convulsions. Mr. Upton 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 103 

lost two fine dogs in this way ; yet the Mosquito men will eat 
the marrow out of the large bones. The curassow is a very 
handsome bird, and the crest is exceedingly beautiful. The 
king bird is black; the queen bird brown, with some white 
marks. The warrie is found in droves, they prefer moist land, 
and with their peculiar bark, and offensive smell, may be 
easily traced. They are of the hog kind ; their flesh is sweet 
and nourishing, far surpassing any tame hogs in the country, 
no matter on what they are fed. 

A hunter, on killing a warrie, ought immediately to cut out 
the scent bag, which is nearly at the bottom of the spine, or the 
flesh will become so impregnated with the obnoxious effluvium, 
as to render it unfit for food ; although the Mosquito men eat 
it, but no one else could. It is necessary to be cautious in the 
use of the heart, liver, &c. of wild animals. A great many 
stories are told of the danger of getting amongst a drove of 
warrie, but such things rarely occur ; though I have heard of 
two instances, where the hunters were compelled to ascend a 
tree, to escape being torn to pieces by the infuriated creatures, 
remaining there for some hours, their faithful dogs below 
being torn to shreds. 

I have heard it remarked, by a man who has resided in 
these climates many years, that a hunter is always much safer, 
even with a little dog, than he would be by himself; as, if any 
dangerous creature approached, it would invariably attack the 
dog first, and give the hunter time to escape. 

The peccary is smaller than the warrie, and is rarely found 
but in dry and high places. The scent is much stronger than 
that of the warrie ; the flesh is not quite so palateable. Arma- 
dillos are much prized; they have a disgusting appearance 
when the armour is taken off. Black-faced monkeys are 
sought after by the Sambos, and the white-faced monkeys by 
the Poyer Indians; their flesh is reckoned good, and makes 
very fine soup. They are clean feeding creatures, living only 
upon fruits and leaves, so that the aversion most people at first 



104 RESIDENCE ON THE 

have to them, can only arise from prejudice. I was much 
pleased to see my old acquaintance the squirrel. 

Deer are found throughout the country at all seasons ; they 
are small, of a fallow colour, and their flesh is good. In the 
months of June and July, the deer commence " walking," as 
the natives term it, from the interior to the sea coast, so that 
in those months the Sambos and Caribs contrive to kill great 
numbers. Gibeonets and Indian rabbits are in plenty ; they 
each have a scent-bag, which ought to be cut out. Some 
good smooth-haired English terriers, would serve admhably 
to drive them out of their burrows. Antelopes are occa- 
sionally seen ; the skin of this beautiful creature makes the 
finest sort of mocassins, and is prized accordingly. 

Guanas are very numerous ; the flesh of the female being 
the sweetest. Quash are eaten by the natives. I have never 
seen one ; they are, I think, something like a dog. The ma- 
natee, or sea-cow, is found in Black River Lagoon, in August 
and September, and other lagoons and bays, and near the 
mouths of large rivers. It is an animal of a very peculiar 
kind, and perfectly harmless. It is an inhabitant of the sea, 
but cannot exist long without a quantity of fresh water, grass, 
and other vegetable matter. It has two short legs, which serve 
as hands. The Mosquito men lance and kill it without much 
trouble. The females suckle their young. The flesh is es- 
teemed by some, it being rich and fat ; I have seen the fat 
three and four inches thick, and as yellow as a butter-cup. 
One had been speared by a Mosquito man, in Truxillo Bay, 
and he had made tashajo of it, that is, the flesh cut into strips, 
a little salt rubbed into it, and then hung over a line in the 
sun to dry. The taste of the flesh of the manatee is between 
pork and beef. I have known tashajoed b£ef keep for three 
months perfectly good, although not more than three pints of 
salt were used to a whole beeve. It is wholesome, and is 
generally stewed or roasted — a skewer being made to stick in 
the ground, so as to hold the tashajo far enough from the fire. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 105 

The Spaniards prize it much ; their choicest part of a beeve, 
when tashajoed, is the salon, (the belly part.) The mountain 
cow is a large animal with a thick hide ; it inhabits the 
banks of rivers far from the coast. The natives make fires to 
attract this creature, they being on the watch to wound it in 
some mortal part. This however does not often happen. I 
never heard of one being killed in the province during my 
abode there. 

Ground partridges, when fat, are delicious, and they are 
often met with. Quails, pigeons, doves, coopers, carpenters, 
white and grey gauldings, are seen in their proper seasons. 
Teal, ducks, and snipes, always come in with the north winds. 
Brewer's lagoon and Patook are much frequented by them. I 
would strenuously advise those who become residents in this 
province, not to expose themselves by penetrating far into the 
bush for game, only to meet with vexation, when they can get 
men well acquainted with the nature of hunting, who will 
hunt for them. 

Land crabs, for about five months in the year, are in vast 
numbers, and are indubitably a delicious dish. They migrate 
from the interior to the banks of the lagoons, near the coast, 
more particularly round about the settlement. They burrow 
holes, and remain till it is time to return. They have large 
claws, and if they happen to lay hold of man or beast, the claw 
must be torn off to get rid of it. The natives roast them alive, 
or take off the large claws and boil them. 

I have noticed a species of locust here ; they commit slight 
injury to the plantations, otherwise they are not troublesome. 
Dr. Shaw, Russell, and other travellers, represent their taste 
as agreeable, and inform us they are frequently used for food 
in the eastern countries. Russell states, that they are collected 
by the Arabs, who salt them, and esteem them a great luxury. 
The natives here do not make use of them. A species of black 
beetle is eaten by the Caribs, as also a long white grub, which 
they obtain from the trunk of the cabbage tree. The flesh of 
the bocatoro, or river turtle, is very palateable; this turtle lays 



mits 
luce 
pro- 



106 RESIDENCE ON THE 

its delicious eggs by thousands on the sandy bays in the rivers. 
The hawks-bill and logger-head turtles deposit their eggs on 
the sea-beach in great numbers ; I have seen as many as 1 40 
taken from one hole ; the yolks of these eggs, when boiled, 
and eaten with pepper and salt, are excellent. 

It will appear surprising that the Sambos or Mosquitians 
should ever experience want, when the fertility of the soil and 
the little labour required in attending their plantations, after 
clearing and planting, are considered, and that they can obtain, 
throughout the greater part of the year, game, fish, and fruits 
in abundance ; but their indolence and improvidence reduce 
them, at times, to many hardships ; notwithstanding the 
fusion of Nature, they sometimes suffer severely, while on the 
other hand, the Caribs are revelling in plenty. The reason is 
obvious ; the Caribs, one and all, make plantations, and wisely 
provide for a dearth, which the Mosquito men generally 
neglect, or if they do not, the products of their ground are 
wasted to make mushla ; instead of being husbanded for 
wet norths, and bad seasons, at which times game is only 
found far in the bush, and the waters of the lagoon become 
impregnated with vegetable matter, so that fish are difficult to 
be procured. The wild bananas and plantains are either blown 
down by the strong north wind, or the fruit becomes so stunted 
as to be of little service ; and thus having nothing on which to 
depend for subsistence, they naturally undergo privations, that 
might, by a little common foresight, be avoided. I believe that 
game is found in greater abundance about Black River, Plan- 
tain River, Patook, &c. than in any other part of the Mosquito 
Shore, and that the Mosquitians of those places are not re- 
duced to such extremities in wet norths, &c. as their brethren 
at Cape Gracias a Dios, and to the southward of it; at all 
events, if the Sambos could only be taught to consider the 
necessity of making and properly attending to their plantations, 
and not waste their productions by making their filthy beve- 
rages, they would, with their activity and success in hunting 
and fishing, enjoy every necessary of life. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 107 

The following is an account of vegetables, bread kind, and 
other things produced, and brought for sale, by the Caribs, 
the Indians, and the Sambos, or Mosquitians : — 

The Caribs produce plantains, cassada, bananas, yams, rice, 
cocos, (called eddoes in Jamaica,) sweet potatoes, yampers, 
cassada-bread, (ochroes, the pods of this vegetable are boiled 
with their seeds, and are nourishing and agreeable,) black- 
eyed beans, Indian corn, sugar-cane, pumpkins, water-melons, 
bird, bell, and Scotch-bonnet peppers, ginger, limes, mangos, 
cachews, soursops, pine-apples, gourds, coffee, (a small quan- 
tity grown by old Louis, at Cape Town) ; also pigs and fowls. 
The Indians and the Mosquitians produce plantains, 
cassada, bananas, yams, sweet potatoes, cassada bread,* 
oulung,* Indian corn, sugar-cane, melons,f bird peppers,* 
limes, oranges, cachews, soursops,-)- pine-apples, gourds,f 
calabashes,| marmee apples, allicavo pears, honey,* hor*e,| 
and other oils, various vegetable dyes, cacao,* pimento,* silk 
grass, wild cotton, &c. also fowls, turkeys, pigs, and Muscovy 
ducks ; tame parrots, maccaws, curassows, and qualms, &c. ; 
a few horned cattlef and horsesf . 

05= Those marked thus * are only brought by the Indians ; 
those marked thus f are only brought by the Sambos ; and 
those not marked, by both. 

A settler would find his advantage in employing Caribs to 
cultivate his ground ; the method they adopt being decidedly 
the best. The women would hire themselves to attend the 
plantations, and make cassada bread. Excellent flour is made 
by the Central Americans from the sweet cassada, preferable 
for pies, puddings, &c. to wheaten. 

By the Carib method of planting, Indian corn can be broken 
in or gathered in less than four months after being planted, 
if the situation is favourable. Cassada, in good sandy ground, 
is fit to pull up in eight or nine months. It is usually planted 
in January, February, or March. 

Plantains and bananas, either wild or cultivated, are to be 
had nearly all the year round, if the northers do not destroy 



108 RESIDENCE ON THE 

the bearing trees. In less than eleven months after putting in 
the suckers, the plantains are full. Yams, yampers, and 
cocos are planted in December, January, or February, and are 
fit for consumption in about eleven months : sweet potatoes, 
in about twelve months ; the best and largest sort is to be 
obtained from the island of Roatan : black-eyed beans, in 
seven or eight months : oehroes, two sorts, the six weeks 
and the six months ; the latter usually planted in June : gin- 
ger, sugar-cane, pine-apples, &c. in about twelve months: 
pumpkins, peppers, &c. in about six months : melons, in 
about four months. 

There are numerous other sorts of bread kind, which could 
be introduced with a certainty of success, and which can be 
had at Truxillo, Balize, and other places, such as the Spanish 
black, yellow, and white beans, the Spanish cabbage, the 
Spanish onion, shalots, garlic, bread fruit, &c. &c. So that in 
the first instance it would be altogether useless for a stranger 
to attempt cultivating English vegetables, when the country 
produces so many, better worth attention; the success of 
which is certain. European vegetables and fruits have been 
tried in various quarters and seasons, and although they have 
4)ften looked well, they have never properly succeeded ; those 
that appear to do best, are of the bean and pea kind. 

The climate and virgin soil of the Mosquito Shore, is well 
fitted for the growth of many tropical fruits and vegetables ; 
the tamarind, the vine, and the mulberry, might be introduced 
with great advantage. Carraccas wheat, I understand, grows 
well in Jamaica, and other places within the tropics ; conse- 
quently there can be little doubt of its succeeding here. Guinea 
corn has been tried, on a small scale, with much success. 

The West India productions, coffee, tobacco, sea-island 
cotton, &c. &c. when cultivated in proper situations, might be 
grown with advantage ; but I much fear, that no positive de- 
pendence could be placed on the Mosquitians for labourers, 
for although they will in general hire themselves for a month or 
two, in exchange for goods, yet, perhaps, when the planter 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 109 

required his crops to be housed, they might refuse to work ; 
and extensive plantations would take more men than could 
always be obtained. A Mosquitian will hire for six to eight 
dollars per lunar month, besides rations. The province Vic- 
toria has however the decided advantage of having within 
itself, and adjacent thereto, numbers of that well ordered 
people, the Caribs, who are at all times willing to work for 
from eight to ten dollars per calendar month, and rations ; one 
moiety in cash, the other in goods ; but even with these people 
the expenses would be great, as their wages for agricultural 
purposes I consider too high. 

Although the Mosquitians have an aversion to Spaniards, 
they will never harm them, when in the employ of English- 
men ; therefore steady, well disposed Spaniards, from one of 
the interior towns, would be found invaluable ; for then many 
Catacamas Indians could be hired, to work under them, who 
only speak what is called Creole-Spanish, and are well suited 
for agricultural purposes ; being strong and active, and parti- 
cularly understanding the growth of such things as are produced 
by the Spaniards. 



110 RESIDENCE ON THE 



CHAPTER VIII. 

The Province Victoria — Its situation for Trade — The Productions in ex- 
change for British Goods — A Barber's Pole amongst the Cattle — 
Cattle — Bad Money in the Interior — Caution respecting — English 
Money — Table of Moneys — Spaniards — Their Employment — Their 
use of the Knife — The Inland Country — Wheat— Flour Mills — Indian 
Corn— Swine — Sheep — Logwood — Mahogany — Vino de Coriole — The 
Water Tie-tie — Trees — Tarantula Spiders — Wild Animals — Black 
River Lagoon— Native Village— Savanna — Traces of the White Man 
— Mosquito Shore. 

The province Victoria is admirably adapted, by its situation, 
for trading with the Central Americans of the various towns 
within a few days travel from the Embarcadero, on the Polyer 
river, such as Ogalta, Sacualpa, Culme, and the important 
towns of Juticalpa, Olancho, Catacamas, &c. ; and there can- 
not be the slightest doubt, that if establishments were formed, 
and well supplied with British manufactured goods, a fine 
trade could be carried on, because the distance would be much 
less than to Truxillo, to which goods from the interior are now 
taken, and many dangerous passes would be avoided. There are 
however some difficulties ; mountains must be traversed, and 
passes cut ; but all impediments would disappear, when trade 
was once established. A pass has already been cut through 
the bush on the Poyer mountains, by which cattle have been 
brought from Sacualpa to the Embarcadero, and from thence 
down the river, in the dry seasons, to Fort Wellington. 

Several people from the various towns have already endea- 
voured to open negotiations, but without success, in conse- 
quence of our not having the sort of goods they required in 
exchange. One merchant brought down some gold dust, but 



MOSQUITO SHORE. Ill 

was reluctantly obliged to carry it back. Besides the towns I 
have mentioned, there are others at the top of the Patook river, 
the inhabitants of which are all equally anxious to commence 
operations. Their productions are gold dust,* silver, cochi- 
neal, indigo, dried hides, mules, horned cattle, horses, cheese, 
rapaduras, (clayed sugar, mixed with Indian corn,) mante- 
quilla, (a kind of butter,) cacao, pimento, &c. The following 
British goods are the most suitable for exchange : — liquors, 
coarse powder, (ff) common flint guns, good cutlasses, swords, 
brass mounted, straight and curved, shot, musket balls, spear- 
point white-bone handled knives with sheaths, the blade about 
nine or ten inches long, clasp knives, scissors, razors, fowling- 
pieces, flints, of assorted sizes, musquets, an assortment of 
carpenters' tools, copper mugs, (pints and quarts, with covers 
for boiling chocolate,) iron pots, from one to six gallons, to 
nest, baking pots and covers, American falling axes, mada- 
polams, mantas, crequillas, blue nankeens, Osnaburg, 23 to 
25 inches wide, wide sheeting, wide checks, ginghams, navy 
blue prints, prints old stock, if good colours, showy patterns 
and fast, principally reds, browns, chocolates, and mixed reds, 
handkerchiefs or shawls, large showy patterns, principally red 
or blue,' assorted crockery, assorted fish-hooks, salt, balls and 
reels of cotton, threads, shirt and trowsers buttons, &c. &c. 



* Gold dust is often adulterated with varieties of pyrites, which ap- 
proach the nearest to it in colour. It is therefore important for every 
one to be able to try the gold brought to him, and this he may accom- 
plish as follows : — Put a few particles into a watch glass, drop a little of 
any acid into it, and hold it over the flame of a lamp ; if the particles 
are genuine gold, no ebullition will be produced j if spurious, an effer- 
vescence and change of colour will be the result; shewing that the sub- 
stance is acted upon by the acid, which gold never is. As a further 
confirmation, if the dust prove spurious, throw the contents of the glass 
into a tumbler of water, and pour into it a few drops of prussiate of pot- 
ash, when the mixture will be found to assume a blue colour, which is 
an infallible test of the particles being spurious. Pure gold is nearly 
twice as heavy as copper, and thus, when alloyed with this latter, may be 
detected by the specific gravity. However, to be quite certain, take the 
suspected alloy, and touch it with the point of a glass rod, just dipped in 
nitric acid ; if the part touched becomes blue or green, it contains cop- 
per ; if unaltered, it is pure gold. 



112 RESIDENCE ON THE 

The dry goods ought to be well packed, as they go out to 
Balize for the Spanish market, in ware cloth and wrapper 
bales. 

Cattle can be obtained, delivered at the Embarcadero, from 
three to seven dollars per head, according to their ages, and 
whether steers, heifers, bulls, or cows, although there is some 
difficulty in obtaining the latter. Severe losses are sometimes 
sustained, by cattle dying from over exertion, when crossing 
the mountains to Truxillo ; and a short time ago, several 
head, belonging to Marcelo Cruz, of Culme, were on the 
passage to that town, when the drovers observed a violent 
commotion amongst the herd in front ; they went forward, and 
discovered a large snake, the barber's pole, fastened by its tail 
to a tree, twisting and writhing its body across the pass, while 
it kept darting its venomous forked tongue at the affrighted 
cattle, two of which were lying dead. One of the drovers 
tied his long knife to a stick, and boldly advancing, dexter- 
ously killed the reptile. This species of snake derives its 
name, from its somewhat resembling the painted poles that 
were formerly used as emblematical of barber-surgeons in 
England. 

Long journeys are taken by the pen-keepers of Olancho, 
Juticalpa, and other large towns, in order to dispose of their 
cattle. They are in general two or three months performing 
the distance to Guatemala, as they are obliged to travel slowly 
to keep them in condition ; even with all their precautions, 
they reckon upon losing one-fifth by death and accidents. 

It would not be advisable to send goods into the interior for 
sale, for the greater part of the money current there, has 
been made by the Provisional Government, entirely of copper, 
washed over with silver, and if a tender is made of their ficti- 
tious dollars and riales, it must be accepted. These pass in no 
other places than the interior towns over which the Pro- 
visional Government has jurisdiction. The sea port towns, 
Truxillo, Omoa, &c. invariably refuse all such rubbish. The 
coins of several states have also but a nominal value : for 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 113 

instance, an inexperienced person will receive from one man a 
coin, purporting to be of the value of two riales : he sends it 
in payment to another, who only allows him one and a half 
riales for it ; and so with dollars. The only dollars which at 
all times pass for their full value, are those of the United 
States, the old Spanish pillared dollar, and the Mexican, — the 
two last being generally at a premium in all countries ; two 
and a half per cent, for the pillared, and one half per cent, for 
the Mexican, being I believe, the average in the United States. 

Much of the money current at Truxillo, is not taken at 
Balize and other places ; it therefore behoves a stranger to 
make himself acquainted with the many different sorts of coin 
in use, and their full value, which can be soon ascertained. 
Sovereigns only pass in Truxillo for 18$. 

With respect to the province Victoria, I should advise set- 
tlers to take English money, but only shillings, sixpences and 
three-penny pieces ; as the first passes for a quarter of a 
dollar, the next one -eighth of a dollar, and the last for one- 
sixteenth of a dollar. These will pass current in most places, 
and be a saving of from lbs. 6d. to 255. sterling in every 100 
dollars, since he would have to pay in London 4s. 2d. and 
sometimes more for each dollar, when, in the province Victoria, 
Truxillo, Balise, and round about, it only passes for 4s. ster- 
ling, being 6s. Sd. currency. The subjoined table will make 
the subject better understood. 



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MOSQUITO SHORE. 115 

It appears to me, that notwithstanding the want of good 
harbours on the Mosquito Shore, it will, eventually, be oc- 
cupied, either by the English, the French, or the Americans ; 
and that its possessors will reap much benefit, because their 
manufactured goods could be introduced into the central Ame- 
rican towns and villages to a great extent. The inhabitants 
at present are precariously supplied, as the goods have to pass 
through so many hands before the retailer gets them, by which 
their price is enhanced to such a degree, that the poorer classes 
are prevented from purchasing. 

Several Spaniards, from distant parts, have at various times 
appeared at the settlement, in quest of work ; they have been 
always employed by the English at Black River, and have 
turned out industrious and civil. They are fit people to be 
engaged for many purposes, such as looking after horned 
cattle, pigs, and horses ; felling and planting. They especi- 
ally understand tobacco, cacao, Indian corn, &c. ; but they 
must be kept in small gangs, having Caribs with them, or they 
will most likely quarrel, and fight with that dangerous weapon 
the long spear-pointed knife, which they wear in a sheath 
fastened to a belt round the waist. 

At one time there were eight employed, and it occasioned 
us. some apprehension, to see them walking about with their 
cuchillos, as, in the event of any disturbance, there were only 
four Englishmen to resist. They had not been long at work, 
when one was brought in with a wound in his side from a 
knife ; he recovered, and the man who had inflicted the wound 
made his escape. This however led to one good result, for we 
compelled them to leave off wearing knives, and on their re- 
turn from work, to deposit their tools, macheets, axes, &c. in 
an appointed place ; they afterwards remained with us more 
than two months, and conducted themselves in a quiet and 
orderly manner. They can be hired for about four to six 
dollars per month, and the women for about three to four 
dollars. The women are very useful in making cheese, pound- 

i 2 



116 RESIDENCE ON THE 

ing cacao, attending the poultry and plantations, washing and 
cooking. 

The inland country, inhabited by the Spaniards, contains 
extensive savannas, in which are tens of thousands of cattle, 
line forests and plains, but like all warm climates, abounding 
more in fruit than grain, although there are places where grain 
is cultivated with success. Wheat is grown at Segovia, 
Xinot£ga, Juticalpa, &c. Flour mills have also been estab- 
lished there. 

The principal provision made use of is Indian corn, on which 
the poorer classes subsist, in addition to milk and cacao, with 
now and then a little meat. The Indian corn is made into 
cakes, called tortillas. In the province Victoria, Indian corn 
may be cultivated with success ; in favourable situations, two 
crops can be had in the year, thus ensuring a speedy supply 
of good wholesome food, with little labour. The manner of 
using it, is to grind and well boil it, adding syrup and milk 
ad libitum ; in this form it is wholesome and strengthening* 

I should say a man, with a good still, might extract from 
Indian corn an excellent spirit, calculated to trade with. For 
feeding stock, there is nothing better or more fattening than 
this corn. Swine are numerous, as in warm climates they 
multiply fast ; sheep are plentiful in the interior, and cheap, 
from one dollar and a half upwards ; but I do not think they 
will ever become of great consideration in the province, as the 
wool is scarcely ever found useful between the tropics. 

Formerly the English cut logwood in the bay of Campeachy, 
but being driven away by the Spaniards, they established 
themselves in the bay of Honduras, and have continued to 
cut -there ever since. A great quantity of mahogany is also 
annually cut at Old River, Deep River, Chimlico, and many 
other places ; the mahogany being generally conveyed to Ba- 
lize in droghers, and shipped for England. On the Mosquito 
Shore, at Lymas, Roman River, there are still mahogany 
works, worked with advantage, and very lately one at Patook ; 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 117 

the last offers many inducements. In the dry seasons , the ma- 
hogany cutters penetrate into the interior, and cut the wood, 
and when the rains have flooded the country, the logs are 
carried down the rivers by the velocity of their currents, till 
they are brought up at the Embarcaderos, from whence they 
are shipped. Many logs are, however, carried out to sea by 
the impetuosity of the floods, and some are occasionally picked 
up at the islands of Bonacca, Roatan, &c. 

On the bank of Fort Wellington are a few super trees, from 
which is extracted the beverage called vino de coriole. This 
tree has no limbs, it has sharp prickly points growing from the 
trunk, which are very poisonous, the leaves forming a cluster 
at the top. The tree, on being felled, is stripped from its top 
leaves and bound tightly round with a thick rope, and mud 
plastered on its crown to prevent the liquor exuding. A hole 
is then cut about a foot in depth, and four or five inches 
square, and carefully covered with leaves. In the course of 
twelve hours it becomes full of a frothy liquid, rich, sweet, and 
strong. On the contents being emptied, a thin sliee is cut all 
round the inside of the hole and it is covered up again ; in a 
few hours the hole is full again ; thus continuing to replenish 
itself three times a day for forty-five days. On the third day 
it begins to get very strong ; about the twentieth it arrives at 
perfection, and will speedily intoxicate ; after that period it 
gradually loses its strength, which at length evaporates al- 
together. The Spaniards affirm it to be a certain specific in 
pains of the stomach, to which natives of this country are 
liable. The tree is known amongst the Mosquitians as the 
cockatruce, but they were not aware of any virtue it possessed, 
until the Spaniards instructed them. The nuts of the tree are 
remarkably oily, and are much esteemed by the Spaniards, 
when roasted. 

The water tie-tie tree is a most singular production, and is 
found amongst the mangrove bushes, along the edges of the 
bank, near the settlement. It grows to various thicknesses, 



118 RESIDENCE ON THE 

and hangs down from the high and crooked branches of the 
mangrove, and if a junk be cut off about three feet long, at 
least a pint of pure water can be obtained from it, making it 
the more desirable to hunters, as the water in the lagoon is 
brackish. 

The papah tree is met with in considerable quantities ; it is 
surprisingly quick in its growth, and affords a substance much 
resembling flesh ; a white juice can be extracted from it, said 
to be a remedy for tape worms. The fruit and seeds are 
excellent food for poultry. 

The sapodilla is a hard wood, which grows in some places 
in large quantities ; one spot especially, on the bank of Black 
River lagoon, is noted for them, as is also one of the kays in 
Black River lagoon. The wood is admirably adapted for axe 
handles and for similar purposes. The subah, somewood, Santa 
Maria, iron-wood, coal-wood, pitch-pine, and numerous others 
abound, for house and boat-building. 

One species of tree is so tough, that it is termed axe-master, 
from the trouble the Caribs find in felling them ; indeed, the 
only axes that are fit for such a purpose, are those called 
tubers, or American falling axes, and by some, Canada wedge 
axes. 

The cotton trees grow to an enormous size ; also the blood- 
wood tree ; the castor oil nut tree may be observed at almost 
every Sambo village; the calabash tree, the locust tree, and the 
lightwood tree, from which floats are made as light as cork ; 
and many other kinds. 

In open dry places, which are exposed to the influence of 
the sun, tarantula spiders are found. I have not heard of a 
single instance of any person having been wounded by one. 
The only animals that trouble the settlers at Fort Wellington, 
are opossums, racoons, night-walkers, &c. which often carry 
away their poultry. The cry of the tiger cat has sometimes 
been heard, and the hunters have brought in a red puma, 
which is a species of lion, and two panthers they had killed. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 119 

In the province there may also be found the striped, red,* and 
black jaguar. The last is scarce ; it inhabits the mountains, 
and is the only animal in the country that will attack man. 
There are also the tiger-cat, the racoon, the sloth, the ounce, 
the baboon, &c. 

Several species of wasps are found, forming their nests in 
trees : the black wasp is the most liable to sting. There are 
some, but very few scorpions and centipedes ; the external 
application of essence of turpentine it is said will cure the sting 
of the former. 

Proceeding from Black River eastward, by a channel two or 
three hundred yards wide, and three miles in length, we 
arrived at Black River lagoon, which is several miles in length 
and width, and in which there are a few kays or islets, covered 
with foliage ; on the whole, forming a very pleasing picture. 
Around this spacious lagoon, landward, are savannas stretch- 
ing from the water's edge to a considerable distance, their 
boundary being the bush. Along the sea beach, from Black 
River to Plantain River, there are five or six native settle- 
ments. At the end of the lagoon, to the eastward, several 
English families once resided ; and, on the ascent of the hill, 
as it rises from the lagoon, amongst the tall savanna grass, 
numerous . remains were discovered, such as bricks, broken 
crockery-ware, &c. ; and in one place the ruins of a wall. 
Landing in another spot, we traversed the savanna till we 
arrived at the sea beach, along which we proceeded until we 
reached the village where General Lowry resides, about three 
quarters of a mile from Plantain River. This village is the 
principal one in the general's jurisdiction, and contains about 
twenty -five houses. 

The savanna, just mentioned, is full of pine trees and papter 
patches ; some parts are low, and others quite dry. It has a 
very fine appearance, and would be an eligible place for a 



* The flesh of the red Jaguar is eaten by the natives. 



120 



RESIDENCE ON THE 



settlement, if the bush, which intercepts the view from the 
sea, were cut, as there are but few of those annoying insects, 
sand-flies, about this spot. In some places along the beach they 
are in myriads, while in others there are few or none. The 
two Carib towns, Cape and Zachary Lyon, may be instanced, the 
former being free from such visiters, while the latter is exposed 
to their attacks, especially in calm weather. A short distance 
from General Lowry's village, on the sea beach, is a place 
formerly settled by the English, and the natives now reap the 
benefit of their visit, in the fruit trees left behind by the white 
man. It may seem somewhat surprising, but there are many 
places about Black River, that have been settled by English- 
men, who lived contentedly, until they were obliged to leave 
their homes, when the British ministry came to an understand- 
ing upon that point. By reference to the grave-stone found at 
Black River, to the memory of George Hewm, it appears that 
he had been many years an inhabitant there; he died in 1777, 
and some of his children, who were born there, are now living 
at Balize. 

At present but little is known of the Mosquito Shore, 
although many authors have spoken of it formerly ; Captain / 
Basil Hall says, in his article on Naval Hydrography, in the 
United Service Journal, for April, 1839 : — 

" Leaving the American coast therefore to the Americans, 
in the confident hope that they will do justice to their own 
shores, I come to the West Indies, which is in the excellent 
hands of Captain Barnett, who, having finished the Bahamas, 
has surveyed the north coast of Yucutan, many parts of the 
Gulf of Mexico, and the coast of Honduras. It is quite 
extraordinary, considering the prodigious intercourse that has 
grown up between the West Indies and Europe, and between 
it and the shores of the Caribbean and Mexican seas, that our 
knowledge of those regions has been allowed so long to remain 
imperfect. For example, the much frequented Mosquito Shore, 
on the eastern side of Guatemala, was laid down nearly a whole 
degree of longitude too far to the eastward, and the banks of 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 121 

coral near it were so misplaced, as to deter seamen from 
approaching it." 

Thus it would appear that its situation has only been 
obtained with exactitude, within the last few years. Little 
dependence can be placed on the old Spanish charts and maps 
of the country. Bryan Edwards, Brooks, Miller, and other 
authorities, speak in praise of the Mosquito Shore, and its 
inhabitants. 

According to Malham's Gazateer, for 1795, the Mosquito 
men constantly put themselves under the protection of the 
English ; and every new king receives a commission from the 
English governor of Jamaica, and until this be obtained, he is 
not acknowledged even by his own countrymen. He states 
that they are excellent marksmen, and are employed by the 
English to strike the manatee-fish, and are also employed as 
seamen, and sail in English vessels to Jamaica. Malham fur- 
ther states, that what should properly be deemed the Mosquito 
Shore, extends from Cape Cameron nearly to Fort Chagre, a 
distance of five hundred miles, uninterrupted by any Spanish 
settlement. 



122 RESIDENCE ON THE 



CHAPTER IX. 

The Caribs — Their Character— Fondness for Dress— Aptitude — Polygamy 
— Customs — Bourbon Sugar Cane — Tobacco — Smoking — Healthiness 
of Carib Towns — Affection for Old People — Goods required by the 
Caribs— Carib Captains — Quarter Masters— The wish for a School — 
A Tale — Colonel Samboler— A Tale of fallen Humanity— Description 
of a Devil Feast — English Town — Evening Amusement — Trip to 
Truxillo — Narrow Escape — Meeting a Friend — Lymas Surf — Mosquito 
Sailor — Arrival at Truxillo. 

The Caribs who are settled on the Mosquito Shore are now 
numerous ; one of the Mosquito kings granted portions of his 
land to some of their forefathers to the westward of Black River, 
and also at Patook; they established plantations, and lived 
in abundance. A north wind destroyed the plantations of those 
settled at Patook : after which they joined their brethren west- 
ward of Black River. They are peaceable, friendly, ingenious 
and industrious. They are noted for their immoderate fondness 
for dress, wearing red bands tied round then' waists, to imitate 
sashes, straw hats knowingly turned up, clean white shirts and 
frocks, long and tight trowsers, and, with an umbrella, cane 
or sword in their hands, they strut about, rejoicing in their 
fancied resemblance to some of the Buckra officers at Balize. 
In fact, their tout ensemble is highly gratifying. 

The Carib women are fond of ornamenting their persons with 
coloured beads strung in various forms. When bringing the 
products of their plantations for sale, they appear dressed in 
calico bodices and some lively patterned skirts, handkerchiefs 
being tied round their heads, and suffered to fall negligently 
behind; on other occasions, when at home, they are not so 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 123 

particular, for there they appear almost in the costume of 
nature ; but on the approach of a white man they flee in terror, 
and soon reappear equipped in all their finery. 

The Caribs cannot be considered a handsome race, but they 
are hardy and athletic. The difference in their colour is 
somewhat remarkable; some being coal black, others again 
nearly as yellow as saffron, although as a nation they are called 
the Black Caribs. They are scrupulously clean, and have 
great aptitude for the acquirement of languages, most of the 
men being able to talk in Carib, Spanish and English ; some 
even add Creole-French and Mosquito ; and I have heard even 
the women converse in Carib, Spanish, French, &c, or Carib, 
English, Spanish, and so on ; indeed the universality of these 
languages appears strange. Polygamy is general amongst 
them ; some having as many as three or four wives, but the 
husband is compelled to have a separate house and plantation 
for each, and if he makes one a present, he must make the 
others one of the same value : and he must also divide his time 
equally among them, a week with one, a week with another, 
and so on. When a Carib takes a wife, he fells a plantation, 
and builds a house ; the wife then takes the management, and 
he becomes a gentleman at large till the following year, when 
another plantation has to be cleared. The wife attends these 
plantations with great care, perseverance and skill, and in the 
course of twelve or fifteen months has every description of 
bread kind in use amongst them, and as the products are 
entirely her own, she only keeps sufficient at home for her 
husband and family, and disposes of the rest to purchase 
clothes and other necessaries. Just before Christmas the wo- 
men engage several creers, freight them with rice, beans, yams, 
plantains, &c. for Truxillo and Balize, and hire their husbands 
and others as sailors. It is the custom, when a woman can- 
not do all the work required in the plantation, for her to hire 
her husband, and pay him two dollars per week. The women 
travel considerable distances to their plantations, and carry 
their productions in a kind of wicker basket. I have known 



124 RESIDENCE ON THE 

them walk from far beyond Monkey Apple Town to Fort 
Wellington, a distance of forty miles, to exchange their baskets 
of provisions for salt, calico, &c. Men accompany them on their 
trading excursions, but never by any chance carry the burthens, 
thinking it far beneath them. In the dry seasons, the women 
collect fire wood, which they stack in sheltered places, to be 
ready for the wet norths. Industry and forethought are peculiar 
traits of character in Carib women, consequently they easily 
surround themselves with necessaries and comforts. 

The men can hew and plant, hunt and fish, erect a comfort- 
able house, build a good boat, make the sails, &c. ; some are 
capital tailors, and others good carpenters ; altogether there 
cannot be a more useful body of men. They often go to the 
various mahogany works about Roman River, Lymas River, 
Truxillo or Balize, and hire themselves as mahogany cutters, 
for which, by their strength and activity, they are well fitted ; 
they hire for five or six months, sometimes longer, for eight 
to twelve dollars per month, and rations. I have known some 
Caribs of superior manual power, and who understood the 
whole routine of mahogany cutting, obtain as much as fifteen 
and sixteen dollars per month. On the expiration of their 
engagement, they return to their homes laden with useful arti- 
cles, and invariably well dressed. I saw a Carib belonging to 
Cape Town that had just returned from Balize, who sported a 
pair of cloth boots, a white hat, black coat, white trowsers, a 
fancy coloured shirt, a pair of splendid braces and an umbrella. . 
His coat happened to be an extremely tight fit; and as he 
appeared to be very uncomfortable, we asked him to cut up 
a pine apple, which, after several vigorous efforts, he succeeded 
in accomplishing. 

The Caribs grow the Bourbon sugar cane, and they declare 
that the soil is well adapted for its cultivation ; I have myself 
seen it sixteen feet in height, and thick in proportion, from the 
plantation of Captain Samboler at Zachary Lyon River. To- 
bacco is now grown in small quantities by the Caribs, and also 
by the Mosquitians at Patook, but they have not yet discovered 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 125 

the proper method of drying; the tobacco of the one tribe 
tastes like dried hay, and that of the other is so strong as to 
occasion bad symptoms to those unaccustomed to its use. If 
the proper method of preparing tobacco were practised, it might 

| become an article of exportation. In the interior, amongst the 
Spaniards, a large quantity is produced, and conveyed on the 

I backs of mules to Truxillo for sale. Some of the superior sort 
is made into " puros," twelve of which can be had for five- 
pence currency ; and three dozen cigarittos for the same price. 
Their best tobacco is not to be compared in flavour to that from 
Havanna, in consequence of the mode of damping and drying 
practised by the Central Americans • but it is equal in point of 
quality and size. The natives of the Mosquito Shore are 
attached to the use of tobacco to an inordinate degree, and if 
they cannot obtain it, they have recourse to the leaves of the 
trumpet and papah trees, which they collect and use as a sub- 
stitute, when sufficiently smoke-dried over a fire. 

Smoking, however it may be disclaimed, is of great service in 
warm and humid climates; indeed, it is there chiefly required. 
Here, on the Mosquito Shore, it is useful as a defence in some 
measure against insects, and I think contributes to the pre- 
servation of health. The advice I have received from old 

i travellers has always been to conform, wherever you travel, 

i to the mode of living and usages of the inhabitants. 

The Carib houses are all exceedingly well built ; the posts 
being of iron-wood, subah, &c. the rafters and beams of Santa 
Maria ; the thatch swallow-tail or cahoon, and wattled with 
cabbage boards ; they have apertures made for windows with 
stutters, which are closed in the evening with much care, to 
prevent the admission of the land wind. The Carib houses 
being open to the sea breeze, and always closed against the 
land wind, is no doubt the main reason of the healthiness of 
their towns ; much however is attributable to their cleanliness, 
and the plenty in which they live. 

The old people are supported by their sons or other relatives, 
and are treated and spoken of with much respect, the children 



126 RESIDENCE ON THE 

seeming to vie with each other in testifying their affection. 
At every Carib town numerous pigs and fowls, belonging to 
the women, are indiscriminately running about, for the people 
prefer making plantations, sometimes as far as five miles from 
the town, to stying up the hogs, which they would be obliged 
to do, if their plantations were made close at hand ; as the pigs 
in their perambulations would find them out, and do much 
mischief. These hogs, when fattened, are sent to Truxillo 
and other places for sale. 

The following is a list of goods, the best suited for the 
Caribs in exchange for their provisions and labour, as also 
those mostly required by the Sambos or Mosquitians, and the 
Indians : — 

Those marked C. are wanted by the Caribs ; those marked M. by the 
Mosquitians; and those marked I. by the Indians. 

Osnaburg, 23 to 25 inches wide. 
Prints, gay patterns, old stock, if good. 
Handkerchiefs large, showy patterns, principally 

red and blue. 
Grey calicos. 

Red and blue twilled baize frocks and red caps. 
Osnaburg thread. 
Mock Madras handkerchiefs. 
Keels and balls of cotton. 
White tape and white bone buttons. 
Needles, Nos. 3, 4, 5 and 6. 
White calico. 
Hooks, Nos. 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, and fly, 

principally from No. 9 upwards. 
Yellow soap. 

Common flint guns and flints. 
Flint guns, middling quality. 
Dutch looking glasses. 
English macheets (cutlass blades). 
Negro pipes, large bowl. 



c. 


M. 


I. 


c. 


M. 




c. 






c. 


M. 




c. 


M. 




c. 






c. 


M. 




c. 






c. 






c. 


M. 


I. 


c. 


M. 




c. 


M. 


I. 


c. 






M 






c. 






c. 


M. 




c. 


M. 


I. 


c. 


M. 





MOSQUITO SHORE. 127 

Gunpowder, FF. 

Shot BB and Nos. 1 and 2. 

Negro combs. 

Razors, scissors, plates, dishes, mugs, jugs, cups 
and saucers, basins, &c. old stock. 

Clasp knives. 

Spear-point knives with sheaths, 9 or 10 inches long. 

Iron pots, from half gallon to 6 gallons. 

Flat files. 

Liquor. 

Negro head and leaf tobacco. 

Canvass and sheeting trowsers. 

Ribbons, white, red, blue, chocolate and black. 

Small beads, red, blue, white and black. 

Small mock coral and garnets. 

Tin plates. 

Sheeting, 36 yard pieces. 

Salempores, blue. 

Wide checks. 

Hoes and bills. 

Salt. 

Each Carib town has an appointed captain, who has always 
a commission from the king. The following is the copy of a 
commission given to Captain Greenwich, of Cape Town, in 
1841, to which I witnessed the king's signature, at Black 
River. It was read over to him, and he understood its 
purport: — 

" Having confidence and faith in your skill, integrity, and 
courage, We, Robert Charles Frederic, king of the Mosquito 
Shore, do hereby nominate and appoint you captain of the 
Caribs, in the district of Cape Town, advising you to warn us 
of any and every danger of treason or otherwise, affecting the 
safety of this our said kingdom, and at all times to render us 
your utmost services and assistance in apprehending any 
offender at any time within our said territories of the Mosquito 
Shore ; and to keep peace and goodwill as much as in you lies, 



c. 


M.I. 


c. 


M. 


c. 


M. 


c. 




C. 


M.I. 


C. 


M. 


c. 


M.I. 


C. 


M. 


C. 


M. 


c. 


M. 


C. 


M. 


C. 


M. 


c. 


M.I. 


c. 


M. 


C. 


M. 


c. 


M. 


c. 


M. 


c. 


M. 


c. 




c. 


M.I. 



128 RESIDENCE ON THE 

in your said district of Cape Town. We also command you to 
carry all offenders you may apprehend, to the magistrates at 
Fort Wellington, Black River, there to be properly examined. 
Given under our hand and seal, this day of 

" Signed, Robert Charles Frederic, 

" King of the Mosquito Nation." 

It is quite clear, that not one of the king's Carib captains 
can read this document ; yet without it they would not con- 
sider themselves of any importance, whilst with it, no subjects 
are more to be depended on. If the king at any time sends for 
General Lowry, in whose district the Caribs dwell, he will 
summon the captains to supply him with from twenty to thirty 
quarter-masters to accompany him to the king's residence at 
Wasla, or elsewhere. 

Each captain has two quarter-masters, who serve two years, 
and whose duty it is to apprehend any culprit, and take them 
before the magistrates ; and if they are found guilty, to flog 
them with a strap made from the hide of the manatee, which is 
seldom required, as the Caribs are a peaceable body of men. 
If there should be no magistrates, the captains meet, and order 
the punishment themselves. 

In dealing with the Caribs, it is necessary to make agree- 
ments in writing, causing them to affix their marks ; this done, 
they know imposition would be useless, as satisfaction could be 
obtained on application to the Carib captains. Amongst the 
numerous Caribs I have employed I only know of two instances 
where anything wrong was attempted. The Caribs have for a 
long period been desirous of a school establishment, and I have 
heard sufficient to know that the arrival of a missionary, espe- 
cially if he also acted as schoolmaster, would be hailed with the 
liveliest joy; indeed Captain Samboler told me, he had been 
promised at Balize, that they should be visited by one, but 
they had long looked for him in vain ; the consequences are, 
that these people send their children to Truxillo, to be baptized 
in the Spanish church. So strong is the desire for improve- 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 129 

ment amongst them, that I am well convinced many would pay 
to be taught reading and writing, and it is a matter of regret 
that such people, so eager and so capable of acquiring know- 
ledge, should be left in ignorance, whilst the labours of so 
many able men are wasted on besotted bigotry and blind 
superstition. 

A very old Carib, now residing at Little Rock, beyond the 
limits of Victoria, told me, that when a boy he arrived on the 
Mosquito coast with some companions, consisting of two old 
men, two boys and girls, and three young men ; they wandered 
along the sea beach, hiding in the woods by day and travelling 
by night, existing upon herbs and fruits. At length they 
came to the residence of some Sambo or Mosquito chief, and 
upon a short consultation, they agreed to advance in a suppli- 
catory manner to the first natives they saw. In a short time 
a body of natives came along the beach shouting, singing, and 
throwing then arms about violently. The poor Caribs were 
much frightened; but mustering up courage, they came for- 
ward, and threw themselves upon their knees, holding up their 
hands, and making signs for food. The natives rushed on 
them with fierce gestures, threatening to kill them, when one 
of the Caribs, happening to know the name of a Mosquito 
chief, had presence of mind to mention it, which had a salutary 
effect; for the natives left off illtreating them, and carried them 
before then chief, and immediately a general palaver was held ; 
some advising their instant death. At last a venerable old 
chief arose, and a profound stillness reigned throughout the 
hitherto noisy assembly, for the old man's words were treated 
with superstitious reverence : " My children," said he, " your 
words are as nothing ; listen, these people have no arms ; 
look, do you not see old men and children ? Do they come to 
make war with you? No; let them be free." It happened 
that an Englishman who had been wrecked upon the coast, 
and who had since resided amongst the natives from preference, 
addressed the multitude assembled, and after explaining to 
them, in their own language and style, the injustice they 



130 RESIDENCE ON THE 

would commit, if they injured the poor Caribs ; the chief 
gravely said, " My white friend Englishman, your words are 
good; to these strangers we will give land, and they shall 
dwell among us in peace, and as brothers." They were imme- 
diately fed, and taken much notice of; they built themselves 
houses, made plantations, intermarried with the natives, and 
gradually increased in numbers and importance, till at length 
they determined, from some cause not now to be ascertained, 
to remove to Little Rock ; and the old man, who gave me the 
account, is the only survivor of the original party. 

At Zachary Lyon resides the much respected, and worthy 
Colonel Samboler, the chief of the Caribs, and father of Cap- 
tain Samboler. It appears that when the war took place in 
the island of St. Vincent, between the Black Caribs and the 
English, the former were much assisted by the French, while 
the Red Caribs fought for the English. After a long con- 
tinuance of hostilities, a general battle ensued, in which the 
Black Caribs and their adherents were defeated with great 
slaughter. During the battle the head chief was slain, and the 
chieftainship then devolved on Samboler's father, who bravely 
led on his men, but was likewise slain; the present Colonel 
Samboler, then a boy of ten years old, became the chief, and 
was, with many of his people, taken prisoners, and conveyed 
by the British to the island of Roatan. After residing there 
some time, and feeling dissatisfied, from the shortness of pro- 
visions, and other causes, they listened to the inducements of 
some Spaniards, to settle on the Spanish Main, and soon found 
their way to Truxillo. After enduring many privations and 
hardships, some of them determined not to remain any longer 
exposed to the unceasing demands upon their labour, made 
their escape, and settled on the Mosquito Shore, being allowed 
so to do by the then king, who well knew the immense advan- 
tage of having a race of brave and industrious men in his 
territory. From that time they have increased greatly, all 
seeming perfectly happy ; preferring the climate to any other, 
enjoying health and vigour, and living to a great age. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 131 

Some time ago a Carib belonging to Cape Town was seized 
with the dreadful malady of madness, and in his violent fits 
did much mischief, attempting to kill several persons, and to 
fire their houses. He was at length secured and confined in 
stocks made expressly for the purpose, with but a few leaves 
over his head to shelter him from the scorching sun and the 
beating rain. On our forming the settlement at Black River, 
the Caribs were persuaded to build him a hut, to shelter him 
from the inclemency of the weather. I visited him afterwards, 
and found him a most pitiable object, his legs, from having 
been upwards of three years in the stocks, had shrunk so 
much, as not to be thicker than a man's wrist. The poor 
fellow observing me, as I entered, quietly said in a mixture of 
English and Spanish, " Now me glad — good buckra come — 
take me away, Gracias a Dios. De donde viene vm," asked 
he, " De la Crieva," I replied. " Ah ! you Englishman, come 
cut this place, let me go, I give you plenty of gold. Give me 
some tobacco, Senor." I gave him a few sticks of negro 
head, on which he seized my hand, kissed it, burst into tears, 
and commenced rocking his emaciated body to and fro, and 
uttering low moans. Feeling much affected, I left the place, 
and stated my conviction, that if loosed, he would do no harm. 
On this representation, backed by then* own wishes, he was set 
at liberty ; and he can now crawl outside his little hut and 
enjoy the refreshing sea breeze. He is completely harmless, 
and the little children sometimes play to amuse him, or 
assemble round him for a few minutes, to gaze with pity on 
fallen humanity; and without the gibing and jeering which 
would inevitably occur in free and enlightened England. Some- 
times the poor fellow does not want company, signifying his 
disinclination by waving his hands, when the children leave 
him, and play elsewhere. 

The Caribs have various feast days. Those at Christmas, 
and those termed Devil feasts, are the most important; the 
only difference being, that the one is general, while the other 
is confined to some particular town. 

k2 



132 RESIDENCE ON THE 

Some time previous to a Devil feast, the inhabitants of the 
town send messengers to summon their friends and relatives, 
however distant, and they surmount every obstacle to attend ; 
coming from Balize, Stann Creek, Truxillo, &c. in their creers. 
This feast lasts from three days to a week, and they all con- 
tribute, by bringing their offerings of liquor. Strangers are 
welcomed with evident pleasure, but the white man, with all 
the courtesy and delight they can possibly testify. The feast 
commences at sunset, when the drums as well as the liquor are 
put into requisition, and the play and singing commence, and 
are kept up with all the vigour and enjoyment so characteristic 
of the Caribs. Glass decanters, glass tumblers, white table 
cloths, and English earthenware, raise a familiar sensation in 
an Englishman's mind. The liquor handed round in glass 
tumblers, English fashion, in one part, and the bottle in an- 
other. Numerous large and beautifully clean cotton hammocks 
are slung around for the accommodation of the old people, 
(who do the looking-on part,) the weary traveller, or the ex- 
hausted dancers. It is a maxim, on these events, that good 
drinking ought to be accompanied by good eating. They there 
fore take care to have a number of little tables well, and even 
sumptuously furnished, at which all enjoy themselves without 
ceremony or limitation. In one place several tables may be seen, 
about three feet high and two or three feet square, covered with 
clean white cloths, and ornamented with red or yellow fringe. 
On some of the cloths are placed large pieces of cassada bread, 
which serve as dishes and plates ; others for the captains, 
have decanters, and every sort of crockery- ware required. On 
one dish is either fresh or salt pork, on others fresh or salt fish 
or fowl. Here you may feast yourself on game of the choicest 
kind, such as venison, warrie, qualm ; there you may satiate 
yourself on turtle, or tashajo ; pepper-soup, in various large 
basins, being placed in all directions, to dip the cassada bread 
into, thereby to soften and improve it. This being one of the 
St. Vincent customs, is held in great esteem. As family meets 
family they greet each other with much warmth and cordiality, 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 133 

and even in the midst of all their hilarity, no such thing as 
quarrelling takes place. Towards the morning the tables begin 
to look remarkably empty, nearly every thing being consumed, 
dishes and all, shortly however to be replenished by the pro- 
vident masters of the feast, who, as soon as daylight appears, 
begin to put down fresh dishes and meats. 

The Carib women also in great numbers join in the festivi- 
ties ; and it is pleasing to observe their particularly modest and 
quiet behaviour, so far removed as they are from civilized so- 
ciety. They dance and sing, the dancing being merely a move- 
ment to and fro with their hands and feet, alternately, accom- 
panied by a peculiar intonation of voice ; and I must say, I was 
Goth enough not to be ravished by the accompaniment. 

They equip themselves on these occasions as well as their 
finances will permit, and the variety of hues in their dresses 
is remarkably pleasing. A large handkerchief of some gay 
colour and lively pattern is tied round the head, the ends 
falling on the shoulder. The body of their dress is white, 
reaching down the arm nearly as far as the elbow, leaving the 
other part bare. From the body is attached the remaining por- 
tion of their dress, reaching down to the feet, and it is always 
selected from some gay patterned print, having two or three 
flounces at. the bottom; some have only one, and they therefore 
sew two or three pieces of red tape round the dress, at regular 
intervals, which relieves and sets it off. They are polite in the 
extreme to a stranger, kind and obliging, but above all, they 
must have the meed of praise for then* excessive cleanliness. 

The men are all jauntily equipped, and have an air of easy 
gaiety about them. To any stranger they are attentive ; but 
for a white man, nothing is too good ; and all are anxious, by 
kindness and hospitality, to make a favourable impression on 
him ; in which they rarely fail. I am now merely speaking of 
them when seen at their feasts ; on other occasions they have 
faults common to mankind. It is a general custom at their 
feasts for all the men to get drunk, but they seldom quarrel. 
Some of them will drink the horrible aguardiente, and still more 



134 RESIDENCE ON THE 

vile anisou, during the continuance of the feast, without being 
much affected, but still hoping to arrive at the same blissful 
consummation as their more fortunate and weaker headed 
friends. It seems surprising, that be they ever so intoxicated 
at night, they appear in the morning as if nothing unusual had 
happened. I have seen one man, a captain amongst them, 
take, in the course of the day, at least three pints of strong spirit, 
without exhibiting the slightest appearance of intoxication. 

A few miles to the eastward of Little Rock, is English Town. 
This spot was formerly occupied by the English, from whom it 
derived its name. The Caribs arriving on the coast, took 
advantage of what had been left, and a nourishing town is now 
raised on the ruins. I was much pleased with its situation, 
and the many marks I discovered of the white man's sojourn 
there ; namely, the numerous fruit trees, affording those cool 
and aromatic fruits, so much in request in warm climates, such 
as the mango, soursop, allicavo pears, limes, &c. 

From this point westward, nearly as far as " the cloud-capp'd " 
mountains of Truxillo, the country is hilly, and, with the many 
straggling Carib towns, is very pleasing. To the eastward are 
four towns, — Sereboyer, Zachary Lyon Point, Zachary Lyon 
River, and Cape River, containing many houses and inhabi- 
tants. At Sereboyer there is a bight, in which vessels can ride 
much protected from the sea breeze and north easters, and 
during these winds, land their cargos easily. Zachaiy Lyon 
and Cape Rivers are inconsiderable streams ; in dry weather 
their mouths are stopped up by sand, but in the wet seasons 
the strength of the floods forms channels. 

The amusements of these people of an evening, when at 
work at Fort Wellington, are dancing and singing. They 
assemble together with then* pitch-pine torches, and pass a few 
• hours in boisterous merriment; an empty flour barrel, the head 
being tightly covered with a deer skin, and fastened down with 
pegs, serves for their bass drum ; the treble is made from a 
piece of bamboo about two feet six inches long, covered in a 
similar maimer ; these are played with the open hands, and the 



t 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 



135 



result is a most extraordinary music, the oddity of which is 
oftentimes much increased, when accompanied by some facetious 
fellow on an empty box or an old kettle, on which he beats 
with two sticks. Soon after the music strikes up, a dancer 
appears, who after throwing his body into all conceivable 
postures, now jumping up and down grotesquely, then advanc- 
ing and retreating affectedly, and then after bending himself 
on one side so as nearly to fall down, he kicks about with 
great energy, till at length he gives a whirl, a bow, and retires ; 
another taking his place ; and so it continues until they are all 
exhausted. Some of the Caribs dance well, at least in then- 
way ; and I have been astonished at their evolutions. It is 
rarely a Mosquitian dances. At their sekroes, they merely 
stalk in a circle, following each other, singing loudly and 
uncouthly. At Christmas, however, they particularly rejoice ; 
dancing, drumming, and singing, admirably in their way. 
Some of them can beat the roll as well as many an English 
drummer, having learnt it at Balize ; and being what they 
admire, it has become general over the coast. 

At the nightly assemblies the Sambos invariably stand aloof, 

silently regarding the dancers, and listening with apparent 

relish to the drummers, only now and then uttering a sound of 

pleasure, which convinces the by-standers of the interest they 

take in the proceedings ; otherwise they might be supposed to 

be looking on the scene with indifference, in such repose are 

their features. On one occasion the Mosquito men, having 

nothing to call their attention away, preserved their gravity for 

a long time, till at length a Carib blew a reed, and said, 

" coosu," meaning the sound was like the cry of the curas- 

sow ; the result was one unanimous burst of laughter ; on a 

repetition of the word, another shout was raised, louder and 

longer than the first; their tongues were loosened, and for 

some time a regular Babel ensued; Spanish, English, Mosquito, 

Carib, Poyer, and Wankee, all jabbering together, which only 

ceased on the drummers recommencing. 

Having some business to transact at Truxillo, I proceeded 



136 RESIDENCE ON THE 

with a friend in a dorey, manned by Sambos. We set sail 
with a fine sea breeze, passing rapidly along the beautiful 
looking coast, appearing one mass of evergreen. When off 
Sereboyer, the wind set in dead aft, and away we scudded 
before it, but when off Lymas, and about fifteen miles from 
the shore, a sudden lull occurred, the dorey heeled over to 
windward, and began rapidly to fill, so that in two or three 
seconds we must all have gone to our account. All hope had 
fled ; when a violent gust of wind filled our sails, and righted 
us. The whole scene did not occupy a quarter of a minute. 
A little more water would have carried us down, as from 
the manner the craft was stowed, she would have sunk 
like a stone. We baled out the water, with grateful feelings 
for our preservation. My companion being unwell at the 
period of our danger, was lying lengthways on some sarsa- 
parilla ; he was completely covered with water, the only part 
above being the rim of his broad panama. When about half 
the water was baled out, a Mosquito sailor, (Sambokin,) 
jumped aft, saying, " Master ! white man no sabe steer dorey : 
young workisne, I'll steer." (The dorey had been steered 
by a white man, who had served in an East Indiaman.) I sig- 
nified my assent, and he took the rudder ; the difference was 
instantly perceived; now we skimmed lightly along, or 
ploughed our way through the foaming waters. Towards the 
middle of the night we reached so close to the shore, as to 
hear sounds of singing and drumming; with an in-shore cur- 
rent, and having no anchor, we lay to off Lymas town, in- 
tending to borrow one ; and, as Sambokin was on the point of 
swimming ashore to convey my request, a dorey, with two 
Caribs, came alongside to know what we required. While 
explaining our wants, we heard a noise and splashing in the 
water, and saw the black head of a Carib, who was swimming 
towards us, and who got into the dorey. On observing him 
closely, I found him to be my old friend, Captain Jack, of the 
creer which had brought me from Bonacca. On fully recover- 
ing his speech, which for some time seemed to have deserted 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 137 

him, and being informed who I was, and what we wanted, he 
gave a spring, seized hold of my hand, and exclaimed, " You 
shall have the anchor and anything else, and for no payment." 
It was necessary that I should go on shore, to obtain the 
anchor and cable from the head man of the place, Lorenzo, 
but having to pass through the terrible Lymas surf, which is 
known to be the worst on the coast, and being no swimmer, I 
had no relish for the trip. However, Captain Jack would have 
no refusal, go I must, and on his pledging himself for my 
safety, I got in, but not alone, for Sambokin said, " Me go 
to master ; spose dorey upset, who mind you ? you no sabe 
swim." 

A few minutes after leaving our craft, we came in sight of 
the fierce surf, which was roaring and bursting on the shore 
violently, from the long continuance of windy weather, now 
moderating. Soon as the men got amongst the breakers, they 
rested on their paddles, watching for a favourable opportunity. 
At length we were lifted, and away we paddled with might 
and main, keeping on the top of the breaker, till we reached 
the shore, where there were at least from sixty to seventy 
men, women and children assembled, and the moment our little 
dorey touched land, she was hauled up high and dry, not 
having shipped a drop of water. 

On application to Lorenzo* he speedily obtained what I 
wanted. Finding I would not remain, he poured out a large 

i tumbler of raw aguardiente, at the refusal of which he was 
rather offended. Sambokin, who was standing by my side> 
and whose eloquent eyes bespoke his thoughts, whispered, 
" Ouple man, tapla deeros ; ourike young deesne, coular I 
douksar; tapla na-narra, yamne polly." (Friend, you dont 
drink grog ; give it me, I'll drink it ; it is very cold, and 
it will do me good now.) Calling Lorenzo, I asked him 

i to give my man a glass of spirits, which he did; Sambokin 
swallowing the horrid stuff with evident satisfaction, saying, 
when he had finished the potion, as he patted his stomach, 
rolled his eyes, and smacked his lips, " Yamne polly beegar." 



138 RESIDENCE ON THE 

(Ah ! it is truly good.) My Carib friend now appeared with 
two or three hands to take us on board our craft. Almost as 
soon as we reached her, a land wind sprung up, we therefore 
returned the anchor and cable with many thanks, and set sail ; 
on the following morning, about half-past eleven, we reached 
Truxillo. 



CHAPTER X. 

City of Truxillo — Present state — Interior of the Town— The Church 
— Houses — Fort — Soldiers — Inhabitants — A French Creole — Disco- 
very of a vein of Gold — Trade — Dependence on Foreigners — Honduras 

— Government — Monopoly— Mules — Price of — Muleteers — Market 

— Girls — Religion — Politics — Morazan —Anecdote of Carrera — Colo- 
nel Q o — A Tale of Fortitude — Wild Animals — Merino Sheep 

— Goats — Provisions — Departure from Truxillo — Negros — Roatan — 
Coxon's Old Kay — Scotch Shipwright — Jealousy of the Central Ame- 
ricans — Port Royal — French Captain — Black River. 

The city of Truxillo is built on the ascent of a hill, on the 
western side of a noble bay, open only to the north, and about 
four leagues from the Punta Castilla, across the bay. Some of 
the houses are shingled, and painted red, others again are 
white ; and being built on the slope of the hill, have a pleasing 
appearance from the harbour. In the back ground are the 
lofty verdure-clad mountains, and with the numerous cocoa- 
nut trees which adorn the spot, form a picturesque landscape. 
The place, when settled by the Spaniards, was at first con- 
sidered so unhealthy, that they had ahnost determined to 
relinquish it; however it increased, and became a place of 
considerable importance, and the seat of government for the 
state of Honduras, having its convents, colleges, churches, 
hospital, court-house, plaza, &c. but in the reign of Charles 
V. the Dutch, who were then at war with Spain, took the 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 139 

place, and nearly destroyed it. Phoenix -like it arose from its 
ashes, but its present appearance clearly indicates that it is 
fast falling to decay ; the ancient remnants shew that its glory 
has not returned ; altogether it offers the idea of a broken con- 
stitution, sinking and spiritless. Its downward course was in 
some measure arrested by the industry of the Caribs, who 
quitted Roatan to settle at this place ; through them it improved, 
until factions and civil discords operated against it. On the 
various states of Central America separating from Spain, Trux- 
illo, in common with many other towns and cities, was sub- 
jected to the miseries of civil war and its attendant horrors, 
rapine and murder. In the revolution which happened a few 
years back, a body of troops advanced on Truxillo, and in the 
engagements which ensued, many of4he Caribs fought bravely ; 
others fled and sought protection at Balize ; and from that 
period, their numbers at Truxillo have greatly decreased, 
many emigrating and settling at Stann Creek, near Balize, and 
the Mosquito Shore, to avoid being called on to fight for one 
party one day, and for another the next. The interior of the 
town has now little attraction ; many of the present buildings 
having been suffered to go to decay. The church is large, and 
must at one time have been a handsome building ; it now looks 
naked and miserable ; a kind of turret has been erected on one 
of the wings of the church, in which are two bells, to summon 
the inhabitants to mass and vespers, when the padre happens 
to be in town, and not otherwise engaged. This being their 
only place of worship, it is surprising that its interior should 
be so poorly fitted ap ; they might easily remedy this, and 
avoid the reproach of meanness and disrespect from foreign 
visiters. 

There are a few decent houses with jalousies and balconies, 
the principal part being but poor specimens of house building. 
The walls of the best houses are composed of stiff red clay, 
generally shingled, or white -washed outside, the roofs are 
either thatched, shingled, or tiled. The fort is a most wretched 
affair, with, I believe, only one mounted gun, and that in bad 



140 RESIDENCE ON THE 

condition ; several others lie scattered about, but are of little 
service. There may possibly be about forty soldiers, with 
broad sombreros, light clothing, and naked feet, their costume 
being regulated by their finances and taste, and as they have 
to clothe themselves, the diversity may be imagined. There 
are also four or five musicians, who play every four hours, 
from eight A. M. until eight P. M. ; these men deserve credit, 
as they are self-taught. Two fifes, two kettle-drums, and big 
drum, compose the band. 

The inhabitants of Truxillo may be computed at 2500, of 
which 1000 may be Spaniards, Ladinos, and French Creoles, 
and 1500 Caribs ; the last do not all reside in the town, 
having two villages on the sea beach. The personal appear- 
ance of the inhabitants is unfavourable ; the Spaniards being of 
low stature, and appearing sallow and sickly ; the Caribs, on 
the other hand, are tall and athletic, perfect pictures of health. 
The Truxillo ladies cannot be considered beautiful, and yet 
there is something in their contour and walk which excites 
admiration. The manner of wearing their handsome blue and 
red shawls, and their symmetrical forms are very pleasing. 

On a fine moonlight evening, parties assemble to pass the 
time in cheerful songs to the light guitar, or dance to its de- 
lightful music, accompanied by the gay castanet. These little 
assemblies are pleasant, having none of that stiff formality 
which is met with in England, to the destruction of gaiety and 
mirth. The ladies walk about whenever and wherever they 
please, unattended by any dragons in the shape of duennas ; 
indeed, these disagreeable appendages seem to be altogether 
dispensed with. In the morning they are seen wending 
their way to the Rio de Cristal, (Chrystal River,) for the pur- 
pose of bathing in its refreshing waters. This river, as they 
term it, is merely a gulley of water descending from the moun- 
tains, leaping and dashing down with violence in wet seasons, 
but soft and soothing in fine weather. The gentle murmurings 
and coolness of its waters are very grateful ; in its course, it 
forms many pools of various depths, in which the bathers 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 141 

plunge., Sometimes there are several fair, no not fair, brown 
and black beauties in at once, and it is not unusual to see both 
sexes bathing at the same place. The ladies dress their 
beautifully long hair in two plaited tresses, which hang down 
to the waist. 

The inhabitants are kind to strangers, but are not hospitable. 
There are a few French Creoles, principally, I believe, from 
Guadaloupe, residing in the town, from one of whom I re- 
ceived great kindness, during a severe sickness, in a strange 
place, and among a strange people. I cannot forget her 
sympathy, nor am I the only one who has cause to remember 
her with gratitude. She is attached to the English, and is 
unceasing in her endeavours to please them; and as she is 
the only person in the town that receives strangers, the English 
who visit Truxillo invariably stay with her, as there are no 
inns or hotels in this place. A short time previous to my visit 
to Madame's, some workpeople were employed digging a well 
at the back of her house. At the depth of some few feet they 
discovered a small vein of gold \ she was immediately apprized 
of it, and succeeded after amalgamation with mercury, in 
getting. a portion. The vein was traced, from a hope that it 
would lead to a much larger and more profitable one, when an 
order arrived from the government to fill up the places opened, 
and prevent any further workings. Madame was incarcerated 
some time, and with difficulty escaped from having a heavy fine 
levied on her. 

The foreign trade of Truxillo is limited to a very few vessels, 
one from Boston, U. S. every two or three months, the Guate- 
mala packet, a few schooners from Havanna, and small craft 
from Balize. Sometimes vessels arrive, to fill up, with maho- 
gany from Roman or Lymas Rivers, and from a mahogany work 
in the Bay, the property of a British merchant, and conducted 
by Balize Creoles ; and sometimes a vessel is driven in by 
stress of weather. The exports are hides, sarsaparilla, some 
cochineal, indigo, copper and silver. The imports, spirits, dry 



142 RESIDENCE ON THE 

goods, hard-ware, crockery -ware, and miscellaneous articles 
of provisions. 

The state of Honduras, though one of the richest in Central 
America, as regards its mines, is the poorest in other respects ; 
the inhabitants having no inclination for agriculture, and are 
thus obliged to depend upon the United States for their flour, 
soap, candles, and many other common articles of consump- 
tion ; and have to pay high prices for cottons, prints, cutlery, 
and other merchandize ; not only because they lack ingenuity 
for manufacturing, but because they are led away by the riches 
of their mines, or civil wars and factions prevent them from 
turning their attention to the growth of tropical productions. 
One spirited individual of this town, perfectly satisfied of the 
importance of agriculture, the advantages of soil, situation and 
climate, has commenced works on a large scale, for the pur- 
pose of making rum and sugar, and he anticipates in a few 
years a large increase to his now splendid fortune. 

Many of the mines in the interior are directed by English- 
men, and carried on with British capital. According to various 
authentic accounts, Central America produces valuable metals 
to a wonderful degree ; gold and silver mines are teeming 
throughout that important territory, also copper mines. No 
state contributes more largely to swell the amount annually 
obtained, than the state of Houduras, and yet with all its 
natural advantages, government cannot find money sufficient for 
its exigencies, and thus resort to measures, which give great 
dissatisfaction. If the government were to adopt a liberal and 
enlightened policy, the country would become rich, and the 
people happy. Orders were lately issued, for all the tobacco 
in Truxillo to be sold, to a person whom the government 
appointed, at one and a half riales per lb. (ninepence sterling.) 
As soon as the whole was scraped up, a monopoly was estab- 
lished, and it is now sold at four riales per lb. ; and so on with 
spirits, and to such a degree, as to disgust many of the 
inhabitants, who see themselves deprived of the advantages to 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 143 

which, as citizens, they are entitled. Such administration of 
justice does not increase the love of the subject ; the popular 
feeling is pent up in a great measure, but clearly seen ; and 
at night I have heard the cry, " Viva la reforma ! Viva la 
republica !" 

Numbers of mules constantly arrive from ^he interior, bring- 
ing in various productions, cheese, tobacco, silver, &c. and 
generally laden on their return with British and American 
goods. The price of a cargo mule is about twenty-five dollars, 
and a pacing mule from one hundred dollars upwards. 

The people at Truxillo are considered the most peaceable in 
Central America. The authorities will not allow any danger- 
ous weapons to be carried about, and always disarm the 
muleteers on their coming in from the interior. 

A kind of market is held every morning, before eight o'clock, 
in the plaza, the Caribs principally supplying it with bread 
kind, &c. ; formerly, when attended by French Creoles, it was 
supplied with many sorts of European vegetables, but which 
are not thought of by the Spaniards ; and the Caribs do not 
know anything about them. Most of the French Creoles are 
either dead, or have left in disgust, owing to the late revolution. 
The number of young girls walking about with children is 
remarkable.; almost every girl about sixteen or seventeen ap- 
peared enciente, or to have a child in her arms. Lax in their 
morality, instead of marrying as formerly, they merely live 
in a state of concubinage, and in numerous cases, after the 
first child is born, the father goes away into the interior, 
leaving the mother to wretchedness. 

Only once was a religious topic broached by a gentleman, 
with whom I had some slight acquaintance. " I think," said 
he, gravely, one evening, "you are a catholic." " No, I am 
not," I replied. " Ah ! well," rejoined he, " excuse me, I 
thought so, but never mind;" he added, "let us hope, my 
young friend, that we may all meet in Heaven at last." If the 
inhabitants neglect religion, they seem to take a particular 
delight in politics ; they are divided into two parties, the 



144 RESIDENCE ON THE 

strongest being for those now in power at Guatemala, with 
General Carrera at their head ; the other wishing and hoping 
for the re -establishment of Morazan, a man much liked for 
his strict and impartial justice, and his determined bravery 
and high spirit. In March, 1840, Morazan, at the head 
of a numerous body of troops, advanced on Guatemala, but 
was defeated, after a terrible battle, by Carrera, at the 
head of a far superior force ; and since that period he has 
made no further attempts against the existing powers. It 
is said, that had Morazan's officers attended to his orders, the 
result of the conflict would have been different. The name 
by which the president is called by the common people, is El 
Angel Carrera, (The Angel Carrera,) a title which he is said 
to have acquired in the following way : — On his various 
marches with his troops, they several times were on the point 
of revolting ; on these occasions he would say, " My men, 
march to such a place, naming it, and I will see if I cannot 
find you money." Accordingly, on arriving at the appointed 
spot, he would, after a great deal of preparation, stamp violently 
on the ground, saying, "Dig! dig!" and on so doing, they 
would find a quantity of gold and silver coins, which Avere 
speedily divided amongst the soldiers. This happening once 
or twice, gained him the appellation by which he is known ; 
and the Indians, on hearing of his treasure-finding powers, 
thought him more than mortal, and flocked to his standard by 
thousands. One man, during the late revolution, made him- 
self conspicuous by his cruelties. I have heard his name (Col- 
onel Q o,) mentioned with bitter hatred and disgust; even 

his own partizans admit that he is cruel and devoid of pity; 
his constant observation being, " If ever I go to Heaven, it 
shall be on a pyramid of my enemies' skulls." 

One day, while conversing with a merchant, my attention 
was attracted to a dark swarthy looking man with one leg, 
when my friend observed, " That is the celebrated Jose Fran- 
cisco." He added, that during the last revolution, Jose was 
employed by a merchant, who had some property a little dis- 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 145 

tance from Truxillo, and who knew him to be a desperate man, 
to guard it, in conjunction. with some others. A party of the 
enemy came upon the place thus guarded by Jose and his com- 
rades, and, after a desperate conflict, most of his small band were 
killed, and Jose was wounded in the right leg so badly, that it 
hung only by a few tendons. War to the knife being the cry 
of both parties, he threw himself on the ground. Waiting a 
favourable opportunity, he crawled to a neighbouring wood, 
trailing his wounded limb after him, and raking some dry 
sticks and moss together, he took from his pocket his flint and 
steel, made a fire, and with his long spear-pointed knife cut the 
tendons and sinews by which his leg was hanging ; and making 
his knife red hot, seared the arteries until the blood ceased tc 
flow, binding his panuela round it ; nature gave way under the 
excess of his anguish, and he fainted. In that state he remained 
till aroused by something moving on his face ; he found it to 
be his little dog licking him, which had tracked its master. 
Mustering strength, Jose crawled to a place where he could 
obtain food and shelter, if it had escaped depredation. He 
contrived to reach it, and found that relief he so much needed. 
In consequence of the courage he displayed in defending the 
property, he is now well taken care of by the merchant who 
employed him. 

The mountains of Truxillo contain numbers of Jaguars, 
which are termed here tigres, (tigers,) racoons, bush-dogs, &c. 
and they abound in game. In the town there was a fine flock 

of Merino sheep, belonging to Don C P , who had 

them brought from the interior, in consequence of some epi- 
demic amongst them. They looked poor, but I was told their 
wool was of a better quality than any in the country; it 
appeared to me coarse, although thick and long. Goats may 
be seen in all parts of the town, and it is amusing to observe 
their playful gambols on the tops of old walls, now standing 
alone as a monument of departed grandeur. 

The consumption of beef in Truxillo seems remarkably 



146 RESIDENCE ON THE 

small, only one or two oxen being killed each day ; if two are 
slaughtered, the meat is seldom all sold. They charge a medio, 
(fivepence currency,) per lb. Fish is plentiful, and cheap ; as 
much can be got for a medio, as will serve two people, and on 
fish or game these people chiefly subsist. Cassada bread, 
plantains, and the like, are cheap. Fowls are dear, as is also 
wheaten bread, a small loaf costing a medio, and not so large 
as an English twopenny loaf. Three pounds of rapadura, a 
rial, or one pound of Havanna sugar, a rial, at times much 
less. All other things in proportion. 

After a short stay, my companion proceeded to Balize in an 
English barque, and I to Black River in my creer, with a crew 
composed of negros, who knew little of sailing a craft, in com- 
parison with the Caribs or Mosquitians. These negros formerly 
belonged to San Andres, and being kept in great wretched- 
ness, determined with some others to escape ; accordingly 
they set sail in some small and leaky canoes, and having heard 
that some Englishmen were residing on the Mosquito Shore, 
they succeeded in reaching it, and scattered themselves in 
several directions where Englishmen were to be found, in 
search of employment. Soon after our setting sail from the 
Punta Castilla, the wind veered to the north east, and blew 
heavily. The craft having a pretty good reputation for sailing, 
I determined to stand out to sea towards Bonacca, so as to 
have a good lay at daylight. The north east wind, contraiy to 
our expectation, continued fierce all night, and in the morning, 
to our astonishment, we found ourselves off the east end of 
Roatan, having been drifted so far to leeward by the current 
and headwind, partly owing to our rudder breaking, by which 
we were obliged to steer with a paddle. Understanding that a 
carpenter lived at Coxon's old kay, we proceeded there, to get 
the craft overhauled, as she was leaking badly. On reaching 
the kay, I found an old Scotch shipwright, who with his son 
speedily put the craft in proper repair and trim, for they found 
her much overmasted. This old Scotchman had built a fine 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 147 

schooner, (the Rosella of Balize,) about sixty tons, and on my 
visiting him, had another on the stocks nearly as large ; all the 
various woods wanted being obtained from the island. 

Much jealousy is excited amongst the Central Americans, 
by the English taking possession of the island of Roatan, and 
nothing is more galling to them than the success of this place 
and Black River, and they would gladly throw every obstacle 
in the way, especially the Truxillians, who appear exasperated 
at the insult which they say was shewn to their flag. Accord- 
ing to their statement, some few years back, when they had 
possession of Roatan, they had a small fort at Port Royal, a 
place which was formerly settled by the English. A French- 
man was made captain, and had a few soldiers under his 
command. A British sloop-of-war appeared off the port, a boat 
full of men was despatched on shore, and the Central American 
flag was hauled down, and the standard of Old England planted 
in its place. Shortly after the man-of-war set sail, and when 
she had got some distance, the Frenchman pulled down the 
English colours and re-hoisted his own, which was no sooner 
observed on board the British vessel, than she put back, landed 
a party of marines and seamen ; the Central American flag was 
then lowered, and two or three middies amused themselves by 
dancing on it. The poor Frenchman, notwithstanding his 
vociferous protestations, and his gallant soldiers, were put on 
board the man-of-war, and had the mortification of seeing on 
their departure, the meteor flag of Old England waving in the 
breeze. They were landed on the beach of Truxillo, with a few 
gentle hints as to their future behaviour. To Black River there 
is, if possible, greater jealousy shewn. I have seen some 
curious accounts respecting La Crieva, as they call it, in some 
of their official documents, fully establishing the fact, that they 
look upon any settlement on the Mosquito Shore by the 
English, as likely to be of serious injury to them. 



l 2 



48 



RESIDENCE ON THE 



CHAPTER XI. 

Roatan — An instance of good fortune — A Scotch Family— Harbours — 
Coxoii's Old Kay— A Schoolmaster— The want of a Clergyman — A 
report— Population — Healthiness — Productions — Hunting the Wild 
Hog — Indian Rabbits— Circumstance respecting them— Fish — Elenor— 
Lime Making — Coral Reefs— Barbareite — A worthy Spaniard — His 
extensive Plantations and Productions — His Hospitality — Manana— 
Bible Society — Reef of Rocks — Bonacca — Arrival at Fort Wellington. 

Roatan, Ruatan, or Rattan, is about forty miles in length 
from east to west, and about ten miles in the broadest part, 
very hilly, and one beautiful mass of evergreen, from the sea- 
beach to the tops of the high hills ; and there are many cocoa- 
nut gardens. A short distance from the island are numerous 
kays, covered with bush and cocoa-nut trees ; and in several 
parts there is good anchorage. The principal trees are white 
and red pines, white oak, dog- wood, and others, well adapted 
for ship and house building ; few places being better off in that 
respect. The land is good, and favourable for the growth of 
tropical productions and bread kind. Coffee thrives well, as I 
have myself seen in two or three places. 

An instance of good fortune attended an industrious Scotch- 
man lately. While hunting, he came upon a wide expanse of 
low bush, covered with large dark red berries. Cutting his 
way through to follow his dogs, it struck him the place had 
once been cleared, and picking one of the berries, he found 
it, to his astonishment, to be coffee, and that most of the low 
bush was composed of coffee trees, which had no doubt been 
planted by some Englishman years before. It was surprising, 
considering the time they had been left neglected, that they had 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 149 

not been choked by the rank tiger grass, or foul draw -back 
grass ; on the contrary, they were in full bearing. In some 
places, these species of grass had grown up so high, as to pre- 
vent the coffee bushes from being seen, and yet had not altogether 
destroyed their productiveness. Overjoyed at his good fortune, 
he removed from a distant kay, and settled at the nearest con- 
venient spot, Frenchman's harbour, where he is now dwelling, 
surrounded by beautiful plantain walks and provision grounds. 
Having a large family, he finds them of the greatest service ; 
his two eldest sons, young men, hunt, fish, and attend to the 
plantations, while other boys and girls are fast growing up 
to render him essential aid; he himself being occupied in 
building a small schooner for sailing to and from Balize. I 
was much pleased with this family, so firmly knit and bound 
together, and apparently so contented. On my running in to 
get my craft's rudder repaired a second time, he would not 
listen to my wish to pay him for his work. He invited me to 
breakfast, his sons having just brought in a fine wild hog, 
part of which was soon cooked, and ready for us. We sat 
down to a bountiful repast, — wild hog meat, peas, plantains, 
and coffee sweetened with boiled sugar-cane juice. 

On the south side of Roatan, there are fourteen harbours ; 
some of them only adapted for small craft. The best and 
deepest are Port Royal, Little Port Royal, Frenchman's 
Harbour, Dixon's Cove, and Coxon's Old Kay; precautions 
however are requisite on entering them, on account of the 
coral reefs, and the narrow channels. Malham says, " that 
the harbour of Port Royal is noble, capacious, and secure, but 
only one ship can pass in or out at a time, though 500 sail 
may ride in it with the utmost safety." 

In case of war, this island, if not in the possession of the 
British, would be the resort of numerous privateers, and they 
would commit much injury to the property of British merchants 
trading to Balize, &c. Whilst the English hold it, whether by 
force of arms or not, this piratical class of vessels would be 
excluded* 



150 RESIDENCE ON THE 

On Coxon's old kay there are several white families rending, 
principally from the Grand Cayman's. On the island opposite 
the kay, are also several white and blaek people from the 
Cayman's, and their neat white houses have an interesting 
appearance, contrasting strongly w r ith the houses of the inhabi- 
tants on the kay, which are dingy affairs indeed. A church is 
in progress of being built by the black people. 

On the kay, and in various parts of Roatan, several English 
and Scotch families are settled, and from what I have ascer- 
tained, there seems every probability of their living in com- 
fort and independence. A schoolmaster is now established on 
the kay, sent by the exertions of a few generous individuals of 
Balize, aided by the clergyman of that place. I was informed, 
that the number who attended school averaged twenty-five ; 
amongst whom where 6ome young people, of from fifteen to 
eighteen years of age. I conversed w*ith them, and received pleas- 
ing proofs of the well working of the system, and how anxious 
they were for further improvement. The want of a clergyman 
was much complained of by the settlers, as they said they 
could not be married at Balize for less than ten pounds currency, 
which was more than they could afford ; consequently, they 
merely lived together without entering into 'the marriage con- 
tract, which is often the source of much misery*. 

A report was raised some time ago, that a bishop was about 
to visit Roatan, for the purpose of marrying those who re- 
quired it. The report was exceedingly gratifying, and many 
set about preparing themselves for the eventful occasion, but 
they have waited in vain. 

The population of Roatan may possibly be about 200. 
Many more are expected to leave the impoverished soil of the 
Grand Cayman's Island, to settle there ; so that there is reason 
to suppose it will soon be in a flourishing condition. The 
healthiness of this island is unquestionable ; the only things 
against it being the insects, and, in some places in dry weather, 
a deficiency of water ; this latter might be obviated by digging 
wells, and the former by clearing. In several parts of the 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 151 

island, Coxon's kay, &c. there are no mosquitos, and only a 
few sand-flies in calm weather. There are snakes, such as 
the woulah, &c. but few of a dangerous sort. The guaco plant 
is found here, and on Coxon's old kay, where it was planted 
by man ; and there is an abundance of parrots, pigeons^ and 
small birds, also Indian rabbits and wild hogs. Hunting the 
wild hog affords great excitement, and requires much exertion 
and some courage. In following the dogs, the hunter has to 
cut his way, macheet in hand, through bush and brake, and 
twist through the interlacing branches of trees. The dogs get 
the scent, and, eagerly taking it up, attack the hog on all 
sides, until the hunters arrive and give him his quietus. 
Sometimes a desperate boar will stand at bay, when the men 
have to be wary, for he generally wounds half the pack, and 
finishes by making a charge at the hunter, who, if possible, 
receives him on the point of his macheet. To cut and slash at 
the hide of an infuriated boar would be useless at such a time. 
If the hunter succeeds, which I believe is usually the case, in 
inflicting a wound sufficiently severe, it is well; if not, he gets 
badly cut with the tusks of the enraged animal. I have seen 
men who have received some severe wounds. A macheet 
seems to me not exactly the weapon for such encounters ; it is 
necessary for cutting away the bush, but a good short Bohe- 
mian boar-spear would be the thing. The dogs in use are 
Spanish hounds, small and fierce ; the people on the island 
wish to cross them with some good English terriers. Guns 
are not used in hog hunting, firstly, from the danger of killing 
the dogs ; and secondly, if a gun were fired, the hunters say 
the dogs would never afterwards attack a hog by themselves ; 
and thus they would lose many a noble fellow, as it often 
happens that the dogs have nearly killed their chase before the 
hunters arrive. 

Indian rabbits are in thousands, and do much mischief to 
the plantations ; the flesh is wholesome, though strong. There 
is a peculiarity attending the Indian rabbits on this island and 
Bonacca : at certain seasons of the year, if a pack of dogs kill 



1.52 RESIDENCE ON THE 

a rabbit, three or four will shew symptoms of -having been 
poisoned, and soon die in strong convulsions, but if a single 
dog kills one he escapes. It strikes me, that at those seasons, 
the rabbits eat poisonous berries, which are harmless to them, 
and that when a single dog kills one, he satisfies himself with 
its flesh, but a pack of dogs will, in the general scramble that 
ensues, tear the entrails, and the poisonous berries are eaten 
with fatal effect. One hunter, my worthy host at Frenchman's 
Harbour, told me he had lost seven or eight dogs in one season 
in this manner. Although Roatan does not abound with fish to 
such a degree as Bonacca, yet with well made fish-pots, suffi- 
cient in quantity and variety can be obtained. 

Elenor is a small island at the extreme end of Roatan, where 
I was detained two days by the severity of the weather. On 
this small island, a Frenchman (the late captain of the fort 
at Port Royal,) was established, with plantations and large 
nets for turtling ; his principal business being lime-making, by 
which he contrived to do well, selling his lime at Omoa, and 
all places around, from two and a quarter to three dollars per 
barrel, rather a high price ; but which he obtained in conse- 
quence of its strength, the species of stone from which it was 
burned being principally found on Elenor, while very little of 
the same sort is on the islands adjacent. Some of the inhabi- 
tants make excellent lime from the white coral, which they 
obtain from the numberless reefs hereabouts. The activity of 
the polypus animals of the genus coralina is astonishing, and 
in many parts about Roatan reefs have arisen, where, some 
few years ago, the bottom was deep. The distance from 
Elenor to Barbarette being only four or five miles, we paddled 
our craft to that place, before the sea breeze set down, but 
were some hours in effecting it, as we had a strong current 
against us, and the rain beat on the men severely, so that on 
our arrival at Barbarette, I determined to take refuge in the 
house of a Spaniard, who behaved to me and my crew in the 
most hospitable and exemplary manner. He appeared de- 
lighted at our arrival, and candidly said he hoped the weather 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 153 

would continue bad for a week longer, as that would prevent 
my departure. He showed me over his large and extensive 
plantations, full of all manner of bread kind ; besides greens, 
beans, and peas of various descriptions, at least such as are 
grown within the tropics, and in ordinary use with the 
Spaniards. He had at the period of my visit four Spaniards 
at work, whom he hired at five dollars per month, a large 
expanse of ground covered with cotton trees, hundreds of papah 
trees, which he had planted, and the fruit of which he gave to 
his fowls and hogs; and several fine hogs, brought when young, 
both from Roatan and Bonacca, those from the latter being 
much the largest. Being enclosed in a large space, and fed 
regularly twice a day upon cocoa nuts, &c. they had bred, 
and looked plump. He called them by their names, on which 
they would cautiously approach, and on being scratched, re- 
treat with many expressive grunts. Numbers of fowls and 
ducks were about his house, some large capons for the Balize 
market, and game cocks for the Spaniards. There were also 
cane patches, and with a wooden press with two rollers, he 
expressed the juice from his cane. A large turtle crawl was 
opposite his dwelling, and in it were eight turtles ; and on 
the top he had erected a place for drying his salted fish or 
meat. Several turtling nets, both for hawk's -bill and green 
turtle, were hanging in his house. He had a good pack of dogs 
to hunt with, and a beautiful small schooner-rigged boat to carry 
his produce for sale to the various ports ; without which I 
think he would have been many years before he could have 
accumulated so much about him. In rainy weather, and when 
it is impossible to work outside, he employs his people in 
making cocoa-nut oil under a shed ; every opportunity being 
seized in dry weather to collect nuts for the purpose. He has 
method, and much work is done, while many would be thinking 
how it was to be set about. On the whole, no place I had 
seen gave me such an impression of what could be accom- 
plished by one man's perseverance, when applied to a proper 
object. I was astonished when Senor Ruis informed me that 



154 RESIDENCE ON THE 

he had arrived on the island, about three years before, with 
his wife and a son about eleven years of age, and with only 
some provisions, two or three macheets, and a gun, a few 
hooks and other trifles ; and that he had collected all I saw in 
that time, plainly shewing what good tact and judgment will 
effect in conquering difficulties. He was, as he told me, well 
off. I thought at the time of the thousands of my poor 
countrymen struggling in vain for a decent subsistence, and 
who would live in independence, if similarly situated, instead 
of being brought to an early grave, by disappointed hopes, or 
the weight of a large family. 

Barbarette in dry weather is much infested with a species of 
large sand-fly, called white-wings. In the dry season, there 
is also a scarcity of water, and Senor Ruis had to fetch all his 
water from a gully some distance off; he has, however, sur- 
rounded himself with the necessaries as well as the comforts 
of life, which many would have thought unattainable. During 
the time I remained with the worthy Senor, nothing was too 
good for the young Englishman ; a turtle killed one day, 
fowls the next, and cooked in the nicest manner — omeletes 
prepared — wild hog meat grilled — a species of wild tea col- 
lected, decocted and sweetened with syrup; claret, geneva^ 
aguardiente, offered with a liberal hand, the two first for 
myself, being obtained from Balize, the other for my crew, 
from Truxillo. I was pleased at the compliments he was con- 
tinually paying my countrymen, in which respect his wife 
was equally enthusiastic; and to impress her opinion more 
-strongly on my mind, left off speaking Spanish, and said all 
the English she knew. " Spania man no good, Englis man 
good." Eveiy morning, as soon as I awoke, I observed my 
worthy host ready with bottle and glass to salute me with a 
manana, that is a small glass of liquor, which was his invariable 
custom, being the only time in the day he took any, and as I 
did not wish to be thought singular, I used to rise and hob and 
nob with him. 

One evening, when rather free from insects, Senor Ruis 



MOSQUITO SHORE. \55 

handed me a book, telling me he bought it in Balize. I found 
it to be a translation of the Bible, in Spanish, by the Bible 
Society ; on testifying my gratification at the sight, the wife 
brought me down a quantity of tracts and childrens' books, all 
emanating from the same source, and she appeared to view 
them as the most precious things she had. " Ah ! " said the 
Senor, " you English want to make all the world good ; I 
love them for the sake of these books, and when my sons grow 
up, they will love them also. My countrymen are not good ; 
they only play the guitar and dance ; they call you English 
heretics, but I think they are greater heretics themselves." 
He also added, that since these works had been sent to 
Balize, many Spaniards were wishing for them in the interior, 
and that he himself knew several who had purchased some 
from Balize, and who liked them very much. 

It is evident that the labours of the Bible Society are work- 
ing great things in the hearts of many, who, without their 
aid, would know nothing of religion ; and it is certain that 
the national character will be much more respected, the more 
the Society's labours are known. It is possible that the 
Spaniard I have just spoken of, would, if it had not been for 
the books, have thought the English no better than heretics, 
and would not perhaps have behaved in so friendly a manner 
to any stray Englishman, driven by stress of weather to seek 
shelter under his roof. 

Between Barbarette and Bonacca, a dangerous reef of rocks 
extends a considerable way into the sea, between which there 
is only one or two small channels, which save the going round 
by Pigeon kay, and past their extreme end ; the distance 
from one island to the other is about twelve miles. Our 
worthy Spaniard tying his little dorey to the stern of our 
craft, steered us till he plainly pointed out to us the channel, 
then bidding a thousand "Adieus," and, " Go with God," 
he jumped into his dorey and paddled homewards. We got 
safely through the narrow channel, and soon fetched Bonacca • 
from thence I set sail in a creer belonging to my former 



156 RESIDENCE ON THE 

guide, Mac Millan, loading the large craft with cocoa nuts 
for our stock at Black River, and young cocoa nut trees 
for planting. Soon after we started, lowering clouds and 
spitting rain foretold what we were to expect. During the 
whole night and day there was one continued rain, at the 
same time it blew very hard till we arrived off the Carib 
town (English town) ; and as a bad norther was threatening, 
and the swell rolling heavily, we run our small creer on 
shore. It was quickly hauled up high and dry by the numer- 
ous Caribs who had assembled ; the conch-shell having been 
blown by us, which is always the case when assistance is 
required. When the weather cleared up we were soon at our 
destination, Fort Wellington, where we now had sixteen 
houses, fourteen horned cattle, a number of pigs, goats, fowls, 
ducks, &c, many requisite 6tores, and a thriving plantation, 
in which plantains, cocos, sugar-cane, young cocoa-nut trees, 
Carib beans, &c. were growing luxuriantly, promising that our 
dependence on the Caribs and Mosquitians for bread-kind 
would soon be at an end, which, under ordinary circumstances, 
would have been the case long before. During my sojourn 
here, two of the original party, who left England in 1839 for 
the Mosquito Shore, had died; one from drinking aguardiente 
to excess, the other from dropsy, in April 1841. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 157 



CHAPTER XII. 

A Tale— Mosquito Shore— Departure from— Carib Towns — Skilfulness 
of the Caribs in Sailing— Sharks — Truxillo — Soldiers killed by a Tiger 
— Disorganization of Central America — Dislike to England— Exclu- 
sion of British Goods — Advantage to the Mosquito Shore — Departure 
from Truxillo — Deep River — Mahogany— Workmen — Coup de Soleil 
— Mode of Cure — Stann Creek— Balize — Unhealthy situation — White 
Inhabitants — Balize Creoles — Custom respecting Africans— Pride of 
the Africans — Their first ideas of the English — Communication 
betweeu England and Black River — Departure — New York — Home. 

During my residence at Black River, two Germans hearing of 
the richness of the mines at Santa Martha, the beauty of the 
country, and the high wages obtained there, left Havanna, 
where they were gaining a good subsistence, in search of the 
El Dorado ; they took their passage in a small schooner, and 
landed at Truxillo ; from thence they proceeded along the sea 
beach for Cape Gracias a Dios, where they expected to find 
some vessel to . convey them to their destination. Passing 
through the Carib towns, they were received with kindness by 
the inhabitants, and hearing that some Englishmen were at 
Black River, set off in search of the pass leading to the settle- 
ment. Unfortunately, they either misunderstood their direc- 
tions, or, as they were travelling by night, missed the pass, 
and came to the mouth of Black River, where they re- 
mained till the morning, exposed to the heavy dew and 
annoying sand-flies. At daylight they observed no signs of 
human being or habitation ; they shouted, but echo alone 
replied; long they continued their unheeded cries. They 
collected some pieces of bamboo, which had been brought 
down the river by the floods, and left on the beach, bpund 



158 RESIDENCE ON THE 

them together with tie-tie, and launched their raft for the 
purpose of crossing the mouth of the river, running the risk 
of the many alligators and sharks, with which it, as well as the 
mouths of all other rivers on the coast, is infested, or of being 
driven out to sea by the strength of the river current ; after a 
hard and painful trial, using pieces of stick as paddles, they 
reached the other side. Journeying onwards, they received 
relief from the people of the native villages, and made their 
transit across several rivers and lagoons on their rudely con- 
structed rafts. At Brewer's lagoon they only, by a miracle, 
escaped being carried out to sea. They travelled on till one 
was seized with intermittent fever ; shivering with the ague fit, 
he threw himself upon the sand, and entreated his companion 
to stay by him, but in vain, for he walked on in silence and 
alone. Some hours after the fever-fit terminated, his strength 
returned, and he found his way to Cape Gracias a Dios, and 
soon obtained relief from the Englishmen there ; but he could 
learn no tidings of his faithless companion. Week after week 
fled, and nothing being heard of him, it was surmised that he 
had either been taken by an alligator on his crossing a river, or 
had been carried out to sea. 

An old Mosquitian, called John Grey, who was travelling 
to Balize, arrived at Fort Wellington, and told us that his sons 
had found the body of a white man on the beach, near Crata, 
covered with sand. It is likely the unfortunate man, on 
leaving his companion, was himself taken ill, and that he 
scooped out a hole, laid down and covered himself with sand, 
so that the warmth imparted to his body might relieve him ; 
falling asleep, the drifting sand formed a mound over him, 
and being perhaps unable to extricate himself, he died a 
miserable death ; the companion whom he had deserted, pass- 
ing, at night, within a few yards of him. 

Dampier, I think, speaks in his voyages, of being himself 
buried up to the chin in sand, for the purpose of obtaining 
relief from intermittent fever, and this man might have heard 
of some such circumstance. 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 159 

Thus I have given all the information in my power respect- 
ing the Mosquito Shore, and it appears, from many able men 
who have written of this country, that during the last 170 
years little alteration has taken place amongst the natives. 
The influx of the Caribs has had a decided influence in benefit- 
ing the country ; and, in my opinion, another 50 years will 
be attended with important advantages, and that the Caribs will 
become a very numerous people, friendly to the English, but 
jealous of their rights. One hundred and seventy years ago 
the Mosquitians sought the protection of England, and have 
ever since considered themselves under its dominion. 

According to the Columbian navigator, (published by 
Laurie,) in 1670, the Mosquito Shore Indians claimed the 
protection, and acknowledged the Sovereignty of the king of 
England, but it was not till 1730, that the English formed 
a settlement at Black River ; another at Cape Gracias a Dios ; 
and a third at Blewfields. In 1741, a civil government was 
established, forts built and garrisoned with British troops. 
At the peace in 1763, the troops and civil officers were with- 
drawn, under the idea that this country was within the limits 
of the clause respecting the non-erection of forts, but the 
government discovering the mistake, and finding these settle- 
ments not in the limits, the establishments were again, in 
1766, placed on their former footing ; but ultimately with- 
drawn in 1788. In the reign of James II., when the Duke 
of Albemarle was governor of Jamaica, the king of the Mos- 
j quitians received a commission from him as usual, under the 
seal of that island. The people have ever since been steady in 
their alliance, and very useful on many occasions.* 

Captain Wright, speaking of the Mosquito Shore, in 1808, 
in a despatch to Lord Castlereagh, says : — 

" Any description I can give will fall very far short of the 
actual fact, either as to the produce of the country, or the 



* The present king, Robert Charles Frederic, received his education 
at Jamaica, and General Lowry was educated at Balize. 



160 RESIDENCE ON THE 

disposition and sincere affection of the inhabitants towards 
the British nation. No country enjoys more advantages from 
water-carriage, for, besides nineteen rivers, which are navi- 
gable for small craft,* up to the very interior, a chain of 
lagoons line the coast, accessible at the mouths of different 
rivers. The climate is mild for these latitudes, and being 
continental, not near so hot as the islands of the same parallel." 

At the commencement of the year, 1842, my engagement 
with the Company having expired, I proceeded to England, by 
the way of Truxillo and Balize, after receiving many pleasing 
proofs of kindness, in various presents made to me on my de- 
parture ; the natives assembling to shake hands and wish me 
" I sabbe," (Good bye.) Mr, William Upton, the superinten- 

dant, and Mr. B , accompanying me to Truxillo. A 

norther having ceased, we seized the opportunity of pro- 
ceeding in a large creer belonging to Mr. B . As we 

sailed by the coast, the appearance of the Carib towns was 
gratifying, shewing in pleasing colours, the progress of the 
Caribs towards civilization. In some of their towns were 
seines for hauling fish, made by themselves, hanging on 
ranges to dry. 

After coasting some hours, we came near Sereboyer, the 
hilly nature of the country westward of which, the matted and 
umbrageous woods, the many cocoa nut trees along the beach, 
and interspersedly among the houses, had an inviting look, and 
interested the beholder, till finally hidden in the distance. 
The location of many of the Carib towns has been selected 
with carefulness as to health, water and other advantages : the 
scites of those about Little Rock are, I believe, considered re- 
markably well chosen. The towns at Lymas and Roman are 
large, and contain many inhabitants. 

The Caribs are often observed fishing in small doreys, which 
they do with success. They are very skilful in the manage - 



Povejsand pitparis. 



MOSQUITO SHORE, 161 

ment of their little craft. I have seen them only large enough 
to contain a man and a boy, and yet they would be launched 
on the broad ocean, or in the fierce surf, with perfect confi- 
dence , for in the event of one of these tiny vessels being overset 
by the disproportionate sail they carry, it is of little moment, 
for being*, as it may be said, born in the water, the Caribs turn 
it over, and get in again to renew their pleasant sport, which 
to others would be perilous indeed ; and although sharks exist 
in numbers, and particularly delight to roll and tumble about 
in the surf, I have not heard of any accident happening to 
them. In my opinion, sharks are not so much attached to 

black as they are to white bait. On one occasion, Mr. B , 

myself, and another person were bathing, when the last sung 
out, " My God, a shark ! a shark !" hearing this terrific cry, 
we turned our eyes to the spot pointed to by our com- 
panion, and we saw, with consternation, the black fins of the 
monster, which was rapidly approaching us. Fear-stricken, 
we sought the shore, and, happily, succeeded in gaining it 
unscathed. 

On reaching Truxillo, we found all on the qui vive, guns 
firing- in every direction, and parties proceeding to the 
mountains, to slay a formidable tig'er, so called, which had 
committed much havoc amongst the goats and pigs in the 
town, and killed two soldiers the day before Christmas-day. 
These poor fellows were attending the flag-staff on the top of 
one of the mountains, it being their duty to hoist a flag when 
any vessel appeared in sight. As they did not return when 
their week was ended, a corporal was sent to ascertain the 
reason, and, on reaching the solitary hut, he was horror- 
stricken at seeing his two comrades extended on the floor quite 
dead. He waited not to ascertain the ,cause, but fled, fear 
lending speed to his flight, and told his melancholy tale. A 
sergeant's guard was instantly despatched, and they saw on 
the beaten path the track of a large tiger, quite fresh, leaving 
no doubt that he had followed the footsteps of the corporal in 
his flight. On arriving at the little hut, they found the bodies 

M 



162 RESIDENCE ON THE 

of the two unfortunate soldiers much mutilated. It was 
generally supposed that they were surprised by the tiger when 
asleep, as they were perfectly naked, it being* at times the 
custom amongst these people to sleep without any clothes. 
One was lying- with his bayonet by his side, the other had a 
macheet tightly grasped in his hand. Much sympathy was 
excited by their shocking fate 5 one of them was a native of 
the town, and much respected. Many tracks had been found, 
but the tiger escaped all search. In the meantime the gallant 
soldiers positively refused to go to the flag-staff. 

The morning after our arrival, my two companions suc- 
ceeding in obtaining a guide, armed themselves, and went in 
pursuit of the tiger. They toiled up a steep mountain, and 
reached the solitary hut where the poor soldiers had met their 
fate, and found that crosses had been erected in commemo- 
ration of the departed. After a long and tedious search, they 
returned much disappointed, not having met with anything 
to try their courage. 

In consequence, I suppose, of the now disorganized state 
of the country, Englishmen are not looked upon with a very 
friendly eye, every one appearing to keep aloof ; so that in 
the event of an outbreak, they may avoid the suspicion of 
countenancing them. The people have begun to revolt, 
insurrection follows insurrection, and one revolution treads 
closely on the heels of another. The whole country was in a 
ferment, and yet Truxillo remained perfectly quiet — no ex- 
traordinary meetings, all was peaceable. An outbreak oc- 
curred at Yoro, a place about three days' journey from 
Truxillo, in favour of Morazan, and two or three people were 
killed; it, however, was suppressed. Another took place 
some time ago, equally unsuccessful ; the Morazanite chief 
being taken and condemned to be shot. He was in prison, 
waiting his execution, and though great exertions were made 
to save him, it was supposed they would have no effect. 

The people are not slow in shewing their animosity to 
England, and especially to the merchants of Balize, and many 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 163 

of the principal men then in power were endeavouring to 
prevent, as much as possible, the admission of British goods 
into their ports ; and it is said, overtures have been made to 
both the French and Americans, to establish closer and more 
friendly relations, so as to exclude as much as possible the 
British. This may happen, but the people in the interior 
cannot, I think, be supplied by them with such suitable goods 
as those they have been accustomed to of British manufac- 
ture ; many an independent individual, however, reprobated 
the adoption of such a course. The Central Americans, 
throughout, are exasperated at the loss of Bonacca and 
Roatan, illegally, as they say? taken possession of by the 
British ; and also, because a demand has been made upon 
them by the merchants of Balize to pay a large sum of 
money due to them for merchandize, which they seem unable 
or disinclined to comply with, and they, therefore, short- 
sightedly, look to avenge themselves on England. 

If by any chance British goods are excluded, or subjected 
to prohibitory duties, it would tend greatly to the advantage 
of Black River, and other places on the Mosquito Shore, as 
goods, could be sold to the people of the interior to a vast 
extent ; and the various towns would most willingly negotiate. 
" 0. W. Roberts, in his narrative, published in 1827, says, 
the inhabitants of the Spanish town of M'anto, or Olancho el 
viejo, declared that the withdrawal of the British from Black 
River had so injured their trade and former prosperity, that 
they would willingly use every exertion to open a commu- 
nication with any new settlers." 

The government of Honduras could not prevent a contra- 
band trade, as the inhabitants would purchase, in defiance of 
notices and proclamations, and even if they were to establish 
a cordon of troops, which, in their present condition, is clearly 
impossible, to say nothing of the natural difficulties of the 
country, the people would trade in spite of every danger. 

Although the want of good harbours about Black River is 
a great denial to trade, yet that difficulty might be overcome, 

m 2 



164 RESIDENCE ON THE 

I should say, in the following- manner : — By forming- a depot 
in an eligible situation about the west end of Roatan ; and, 
as soon as the goods were received from the interior, to send 
them in creers to the depot ; from whence they could either 
be shipped to England, or sent to Balize for that purpose, 
thus preventing the necessity of sending vessels to ship their 
goods direct from Black River, except in those seasons when 
it could be done with safety. 

Truxillo, in the hands of almost any other power than its 
present possessors, would become a place of considerable im- 
portance ; its noble bay would swarm with vessels, where few 
are now to be seen, and commerce would flourish in a place, 
now sinking into insignificance. Several people at Truxillo 
informed me, that if the English established themselves on a 
firm footing at Black River, they intended to settle there ; 
amongst them were two store-keepers, accustomed to trade 
with the interior towns, and who appeared fully aware of its 
advantageous situation for that purpose. 

After remaining a short time at Truxillo, and finding no 
vessel for England, I determined to proceed to Balize. Fortu- 
nately, the Balize schooner, "Rosella," arrived with the owner 
on board. This vessel constantly trades between the two 
ports, calling at Coxon's old kay ; the passage-money, fifteen 
dollars. The owner of the " Rosella," Mr. W — — , hearing of 
my intention, and of my companions' desire to go to Balize, 
offered us all a free passage, if we would go round by Deep 
River, to one of his mahogany works. Accepting the proposal, 
we set sail on a Saturday afternoon, and, after a delightful run 
of about thirty-six hours, passing along the coast and numerous 
kays, we cast anchor in Deep River, close by the " Europa," of 
Glasgow, a brig' lying there to load with mahogany. Landing 
at the Embarcadero, we wandered amongst the logs already 
squared for shipment, or only just beaten off j many of them 
were nearly destroyed by the worms, and we beheld with 
wonder the depredations which such small things had com- 
mitted upon the mahogany j the outside having only the 



>TOSQTJITO SHORE. 165 

appearance of being- full of pin holes, but on its being* cut, 
large honey-comb cavities were seen, so as almost to spoil 
some of large size, whilst those of smaller dimensions were 
not of much service. 

On the Sunday, we had a good opportunity of observing 
the characteristics of the workmen ; — Balize Creoles, Caribs, 
and Spaniards, who were seated in different directions in little 
knots, luxuriously passing- away their time in such repose, 
that the slightest motion would have appeared out of place. 
Some of them were enjoying their pipes, while others lazily 
dozed in hammocks, so arranged, that under shade the sweet 
sea breeze might blow on them. As we passed the many 
little huts erected by these people for sleeping, we met with 
several nice looking Balize Creole women, wives of the 
mahogany cutters, all cleanly dressed, with gay handker- 
chiefs tied round their heads, forming- a pleasing picture, as 
well as humanizing the heterogeneous multitude of men. 

The following day, Monday, the people commenced work- 
ing; some beating and squaring off, others rolling along 
with handspikes the huge logs already prepared for shipping- ; 
several had gone into the bush to fell fresh trees, and to 
make passes for trucking them out. It was peculiarly inte- 
resting to observe the people at their various employments, 
working in the hot sun, their skins shining like ebony, and 
as, on the least exertion, they perspire profusely, the sun does 
not scorch them ; they are all alike able to bear its fierce 
rays without inconvenience ; such a thing as a coup de soleil 
amongst them is unknown ; it is the same with the Mosqui- 
tians; though I have sometimes observed them, on a hot 
sultry day, take off their shirts, frocks, &c, and wrap them 
round their heads, leaving their skins exposed to the sun's 
rays, whilst a white man cannot bare his arm to them for 
ten minutes, without being blistered. 

The Spaniards and Ladinos cure a stroke of the sun in the 
following manner: — they take a glass phial with a large 
mouth, and half fill it with water, tying a piece of calico, &c. 



166 RESIDENCE ON THE 

over the mouth, so that when it is turned over, the water is 
prevented from escaping. They place the phial in the dew 
all night, and in such a situation as to be fully exposed to the 
influence of the sun till twelve o'clock the next day ; it is then 
applied to the head of the patient's mouth downwards, moved 
about gently till the place is found where the sun has struck, 
which will be known by the water in the phial bubbling up ; 
and strange to say, it relieves the patient in a few minutes. 
This was told me by an English merchant of Truxillo, and 
corroborated by others, so as to leave little doubt of its truth. 

From Deep Eiver to Balize, there is an irregular chain of 
kays, between which and the main land we sailed, giving a 
wide berth to many others in several directions. We passed 
the Carib town at Stann Creek, about twenty-five miles from 
Balize, and saw with much surprise the number of its houses, 
amongst which is a church, and other evidences of its flourish- 
ing condition. Its proximity to Balize is an important thing 
in favour of these Caribs, as there they find vent for their 
productions, and can obtain the goods they require at a much 
more reasonable rate than their brethren at Truxillo, &c. 

We arrived at Balize at night, and on the folio wing* morn- 
ing had a view of the town from the deck of the schooner. 
The superintendent's dwelling and court-house looked con- 
spicuous, and altogether the scene was pretty enough, as the 
sun shone upon the many differently coloured shingled 
houses. Several vessels were lying at anchor, consisting of 
mahogany ships and small schooners, and H. M. S. "Electra," 
which looked remarkably well, from the rake of her masts 
and tautness of her rigging*. 

Balize or Belize, derives its name from an old English 
buccaneer, of the name of Wallis, and may well be considered 
British ground, as it is built upon mahogany chips, and the 
ballast of ships arriving there for logwood, mahogany, &c. 
All around is low and swampy, so that it is not to be won- 
dered at that the situation is unhealthy, and that fevers of a 
bad kind are engendered. If it were not for the sea breeze, 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 167 

the place would hardly be habitable. Many families have 
houses on the kays, about ten or fifteen miles distant, such 
as St. George's kay, English kay, (on which is a light- 
house,) &c, by which their health is much promoted. 

The inhabitants of Balize are often badly off for water in 
the dry seasons. The merchants have large iron tanks, and 
there is also a public tank : they depend on the heavens for 
their supply; and sometimes weeks and weeks elapse, and 
not a drop of rain falls. Wells are dug, but the water is of 
that nature as to be the fruitful source of disease ; good river 
water is only to be obtained many miles up, and at much 
labour, so that the distress at times for want of water may 
easily be conceived. Built on a swamp, with the constant 
exhalations from the low lands around, its approach impeded 
by numerous kays, reefs, &c, Balize can never become of 
very great importance. The white inhabitants of Balize are 
noted for hospitality. We took up our abode at the house of 
the gentleman who brought us from Truxillo, he insisting 
upon our so doing, and while we remained in Balize, every 
attention was shown to us by him and his affable lady, as 
also by several others, to whom my best thanks are due. 

The Balize Creoles so called, are black people born at 
Balize, and are a fine race. The men are strong' and athletic, 
and employ themselves as mahogany cutters, being, I believe, 
considered on a level with the Caribs in such work. The 
soldiers of the 2nd W. I. regiment, stationed at Balize, are 
composed principally of Africans, taken by the English from 
the Spanish slavers, and they conduct themselves in a very 
praiseworthy manner. It was a custom for the merchants 
of Balize to take the captured Africans and keep them as 
apprentices for two or three years, providing them with food, 
clothing, and lodging, after which they were free. . Now, I 
understand, the merchants refuse to take any more, being 
overstocked. If some could be obtained, and sent to Black 
Biver, it would be desirable, as they would not only work 
well, but, if each of them were allowed a small piece of ground, 



168 RESIDENCE ON THE 

they would in a few months raise more than sufficient bread- 
kind for their own consumption, and become valuable agri- 
cultural labourers, and at little cost. 

I have often conversed with the Africans, and although 
their pride is absurd, and their attempts to prove themselves 
great men ridiculous, they never forget to mention, with 
gratitude, the English who released them from bondage, and 
who fed and clothed them. One of them told me, that on 
himself and others being taken from a Spanish slaver by the 
English, they thought their new masters were only fattening 
them up to kill them. When landed at Balize, they were 
soon dispossessed of that idea. It happened that a duel took 
place, and one of the combatants was mortally wounded, and 
on being carried to his death-bed, the poor Africans could 
not help thinking that the English were a strange people, 
first to peril their lives to rescue them from slavery, and then 
to go and shoot one another. 

The communication between England and Black River via 
Balize, is at present imperfect, and unless some arrangements 
are made to remedy the evil, the settlers will find that their 
letters will be a long time in reaching them from Balize. 
From Balize letters are forwarded to Truxillo, and from thence 
to Black Eiver. I have known them to remain at the latter 
place three, four, and five weeks, much to the hinderance of 
business. To remedy this requires but a trifling expense. 
Let a trusty Carib be stationed at Truxillo, allowing him 
twelve dollars per month, and he will travel to and from 
Black River, walking along the beach, in every sixteen or 
eighteen days, as may be agreed on, and thus every inconve- 
nience would be prevented. 

A few days after my arrival at Balize, I was seized with 
an attack of fever, and for some days suffered extremely, but 
by the active treatment adopted by the worthy doctor, (a 
namesake,) who was called in, aided by the clean, well- 
dressed, and attentive Creole nurse, I soon recovered. 

Balize is often subjected to fevers of a dangerous character, 



MOSQUITO SHORE. 169 

from which the Mosquito Shore seems to be exempt. On the 
breaking out of any particularly virulent disease at Balize, 
the Mosquito men, who may happen to be there, employed 
as hunters, fishers, or labourers, immediately quit their em- 
ployment, and sail to their own country, where they know 
they shall escape its visitation. 

An American brig", the " Florida Blanca," bound for New 
York, being- in the harbour, I took my passage in her, and in 
fifteen days after setting sail, reached that noble city ; the 
only thing that occurred on the voyage, was a heavy gale of 
wind, for forty-eight hours, when off Cape Hatteras, by which 
we were compelled to lay to ; and at one period of the storm 
as many as twelve or fourteen pale balls of fire settled on 
various parts of the rigging. After a few days' residence at 
New York, I embarked on board the liner, " Roscius," and 
in twenty-two days reached Liverpool, and was soon in the 
society of my family. 



170 



VOCABULAEY. 



Mosquitian. English. 

Wike-ner A man 

Miren A woman 

Toocter A boy 

Ke-ke A girl 

Wike-ner warmer. . A young man 
Miren tee-arrer . . A great girl 

Tier nar-ne Family 

I-seker Father 

Yapte Mother 

Mi Husband 

Mier Wife 

Loupey Son 

Loupey miren Daughter 

Moikey Brother 

Lul Head 

Wal tarwar Hair 

Marwon Face 

Nykra Eyes 

Ke-ahmah Ears 

Carcmah Nose 

Beeley Mouth 

Nipar Teeth 

Tweesy Tongue 

Clycler Arm 

Meety Hand 

Bearrer Belly 

Neeny Back 

Looly Knee 

Woy-atter Leg 

Meeny Foot 

Coopy Heart 

Arweear Liver 

Tier Skin 

Weeney Flesh 

Duce Bone 

Tarler Blood 

Kerchuro, Eskero . Clasp knife 

Rock-boos Gun 

Keeser Flint 

Rocks-morbrer . . Shot 



Mosquitian. English. 

Ispan Spoon 

Isparrer Macheet 

Awser Axe 

Matter dinker .... Ring 

Barpring Earring 

Sumooro Hat 

Pin silpey Pins 

Selac silpey Needles 

Selac Nails 

Warmook Cotton 

Hoe Hoe 

Kewl Fish-hooks 

Lillourer Beads 

Lillourer sikser . . Black beads 
Lillourer peeney . . White beads 
Lillourer powney . . Red beads 
Tobacco meener . . Tobacco pipe 

Osnabris Osnaburg 

Quorlar Prints, checks, 

&c. 
Prock powney .... Red frock 
Dickwor tarrer . . Large iron pot 
Dickwor ourear . . Small iron pot 

Tapler Liquor 

Lee powney Rum 

Lee peeney Gin 

Woutier Paper 

Dorey Quarter Dorey sail 

Quiey Paddle 

Leemy Jaguar, called 

tiger 
Leemy Croober . . Tiger-cat 

Sook-sook Racoon 

Tilber Mountain cow 

Rose-ke-ker .... Black monkey 
Wokling . . , White face 

monkey 

Kis-kee Opossum 

Carr-oss Alligator 

Bookser Peccary 



VOCABULARY. 



171 



Mosquitian. English. 

Warree Warrie 

Soolah Deer 

Martis Rat 

Arras Horse 

Beep woin-at-ker ..Bull 

Beep miren Cow 

Beep miren lou- ) p ,,. 

peer $ 

Yule Dog 

Poos Cat 

e-arky Indian rabbit 

Sook-oulong .... Toad 
Suck-kon-kee .... Bat 
Cock-am-mook . . Guana 

£Xoo :::::: \ m™^*-* 

Cal-lee-lar Fowl 

Cal-lee-lar tarrer . . Turkey 
Cal-lee-lar loupeer Chicken 

Quarmoo Qualm 

Coosu Curassow 

Boot koo Pigeon 

Twee-twee ...... Snipe 

Issey tapler Hawk 

Sook tarrer Crane 

Huse-huse . . John Crow 

Up-poo-war .... Maccaw 
Ou-roo-er ...... Parrot 

Cluxer -. . . Sand-fly 

Tyree Mosquito 

Cheger Chegoe 

Kokus tarrer .... Large fly 

Pul-pul Butterfly 

Kiseney Land crab 

Ki-as-ker Beach crab 

Woy-roo Large Man- 
grove-crab 
Konglee Small Man- 
grove-crab 

Couswar Bocatoro 

Pewter . . . « Snake 

Pewter sourrer .... Poisonous 

snake 
Pewter yamne .... Harmless snake 

Lee-wire Worm 

Wee-wee sikser .. Black ant 
Wee-wee powney .. Red ant 

Ou-loo sikser Black wasp 

Tillum Fire-fly 

Mopee Snook 

Calwar Small snook 

Crou-hee Carvalho 

Treeso Stone-bass 



Mosquitian. English. 

See-ko-koo Sheep-head 

Ko-kar-lee tarrer .. Mullet 

Rook-rook Red - mouth 

grunt 
Cow-at-tukker . . Small snapper 

Illeley Shark 

Bar-cooner Baracouta 

Hoolum Porpoise 

Keepy • Conch 

Seeter Bank oyster 

Lowler see-te-ker . Mangrove oys- 
ter 

Tasler wal Guard-fish 

Twyner Saw -fish 

Pe-teeree Small flat-fish 

Darrar Sun-fish 

Oular Cat-fish 

Tonkee ...... ; Small cat-fish 

Ou-lar-sissy. Spanish mack- 
erel 

Topham Tophani 

Tuber Tuber 

Snapper Snapper 

Coomy . . . . One 

Wal Two 

Eumpar Three 

Wal-wal Four 

Mattesip Five 

Mattal-al-karby • • Six 
Mattal-al-karby ) „ 

poorer coomy J ev n 
Mattal-al-karby ) E - , . 

poorer wal . . $ ° 
Mattal-al-karby ) -^ 

poorer eumpar 5 
Mattal-wal-sip . . Ten 
Yar-won iceker > m j. 

coomy J Twenty 

Niwar To-day 

Narwaller Yesterday 

Yowcar To-morrow 

Arwas powney. . . . Red-pine 

Sleko waryu Cahoon-leaf 

Uttuk waryu .... Swallow-tail 

leaf 
Yowrus waryu. . . . Wild -cane leaf 

Twee Grass 

Duce Wood 

Ounter Bush 

Yulu Mahogany 

Yarlam Cedar 

Lowler Mangrove 

Kewar Tie-tie 



172 



VOCABULARY. 



* Mosquitian. English. 

Carrer Silk-grass 

Penassow Willow 

Lapter . ► Sun, or heat 

Walpoorer walper . The sky 

Slillmer Stars 

Carty Moon 

Tusber Ground 

Yarbrer North and west 

Wal moonter .... South 

Wo East 

Kosbreker Clouds 

Parser Wind 

Prarey Storm 

Lumney ........ Calm 

Dewos Land wind 

Warwar paser .... Sea breeze 

Powter Fire 

Carsmar Smoke 

Larler Money 

Bonkee Full 

Bukeriky Half-full 

Pook All 

Barkey Nothing 

Sookooner But 

Dear What 

Nar This 

Bar That 

Yar Who 

Arkear When 

Anserar Where 

Young Me 

Man You 

Pot Soon 

Ban So 

Narer Here 

Bookrer Yonder 

Barrossar There 

Poorer Above 

Lyourer Further 



Mosquitian. English. 

Booswon Wet 

Larwon Dry 

Lee owler Rain coming 

Nyker , By-and-by 

Dear kun Why not ? 

Warparrer Do not go 

Lee ourike Give me water 

Powter ourike .... Give me fire 
Yamne kise Take care — 

look well 

Bre-bal Bring 

Narer bal Come here 

I swiss Leave me 

Bisourer Just now 

Sipsey That's enough 

Makker swiss Leave it alone 

Bon swiss Never mind 

Bon dowks Do it 

Pot moonier Directly 

Deeamner What is it ? 

Dear wesir What does he 

say ? 
Pot bal, inee Quick, make 

haste 

Walse Hear 

Kise See 

Alke kise Feel 

Darbe kise Taste 

Ke-a-wal Smell 

Ou wear-sir Too much 

Dear dowkismar . . What are you 

doing ? 
Toocter powter \ Boy, bring fire 

bre-bal $ stick 

Nakser What's the 

news? 

Yamnesmar Are you well ? 

Yamnessee I am well 

I sabbe, ouble .... . Good by, friend 



FINIS. 



London : Printed by Stewart & Murray, Old Bailey. 






